It is one of the latest dining-out options to open this year in the evolving cultural enclave of Alserkal Avenue in Dubai, yet Lila Molina + Cafe has much more to offer than a Mexican menu.
Co-owners Shaw Lash and husband Tarek Islam promise visitors a broader, more immersive experience. Their all-day dining concept is a place, they say, where casual cuisine meets casual culture. Tacos and terracotta, salsa and ceramics.
As my dining partner and I discover, it is a celebration of all things corn without being corny with zero sombreros in sight.
Where to sit and what to expect
All of that becomes clear the moment we enter the eatery, only to be greeted with a retail space offering artworks, crafts, textiles and pottery as well as farm shop favourites such as tortillas, chips, salsas and cheeses made in-house. We take enough time to browse before making our way upstairs to the first-floor dining area.
The two-storey building is a vast concrete-and-steel open-plan space with high pergola-style wooden ceilings. It's different, and the layout has been used almost as a canvas to create an experience that transcends food.
The upper floor dining area is adorned with wall murals designed by female Mexican artists and myriad watercolour paintings in different sizes and styles which are available to buy.
Shades of terracotta and sky blue complement the lush greenery in the centre of the space. The seating capacity is 75, but it feels like there is room for more. Comfy sofas overlook the retail area, probably intended for guests who are in for coffee or light bites, but we select a table in the corner perfectly located for admiring the art, soaking in the overall surroundings and enjoying the laid-back vibe.
The menu
Lila Molina + Cafe is the successor to Lila Taqueria, the traditional Mexican restaurant that opened on Jumeirah Beach Road in 2022.
Our helpful waitress tells us that there are some similarities. Both venues offer dishes crafted from ingredients sourced from UAE producers and small farm communities in Mexico, and both deploy traditional Mexican culinary techniques. However, the settings and menus are distinct.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are on offer at Lila Molina + Cafe, where the menu changes depending on the time of day. A casual dining destination, the menu isn't extensive, but that doesn't mean bold flavours and contrasting textures go amiss.
It is early evening on the day of our visit, and our waitress is happy to offer recommendations for mains. I opt for the bestseller – smoked brisket enchiladas (Dh90) – and am not disappointed.
Lila Molina’s homemade corn enchiladas (more of which later) look good on the outside and taste even better on the inside. The crispy onion topping gives way to melt-in-the-mouth smoked beef. Tender and rich in flavour, it is combined simply but effectively with melted cheddar cheese for a mix of textures and a fiesta of flavours to electrify the taste buds.
My dining partner’s crispy chicken verde gringa (Dh65) is Lila Molino's version of a chunky quesadilla dish. Homemade crisp tortillas layered with melted cheese, grilled chicken, caramelised onion and poblano chillies, it is presented alongside creamy guacamole, which provides a subtle counterpoint to the spiciness, and half a lime for a zesty kick.
We are both suckers for dessert, so it takes little more than a fleeting glance at the options to persuade us to order. My mango lemon grass flan (Dh35) gives me creme caramel vibes in terms of consistency, with the light-but-tangy lemongrass perfectly offsetting the tender sweetness of the mango.
The churros (Dh40) chosen by my dining partner were always going to be a winner. They arrive warm and crispy, with two sauce options: salted caramel and a chocolate one that has a hint of chile.
A chat with the chef
As well as co-owner, Lash is the executive chef. From Texas, she spent her early twenties in Mexico, where her nickname, Lila, was inspired by the great Mexican singer Lila Downs. That explains the first part of her cafe’s name. The second part is the Spanish word for mill, a connection she regards as essential to the authentic cuisine her venture strives to deliver.
A molino is traditionally used to grind corn, an ingredient Lash regards as the “foundation” of traditional Mexican cuisine. No stone is left unturned in her efforts to ensure that the best corn is a central ingredient in pretty much every dish.
The best enchiladas, she explains, are made with corn, producing more flavour and a better shape than flour-based alternatives. Naturally, Lila Molino makes its own corn enchiladas, tortillas and tacos using the finest heirloom corn it can source from small farms in Mexico and grinding it in-house to retain the nutrients and flavour.
But her Lila Molino concept encompasses more than “the vibrant flavours of Mexico". As she points out: “This place is also about culture.”
It was partly the curiosity of regulars at Lila Taqueria about all things Mexico that convinced Lash and her business partner to make retail space and art part of Lila Molino’s offering. It seems to be working.
As for Alserkal Avenue, it's an ideal fit. It “perfectly mirrors Dubai's ever-evolving art and culture scene", she says.
Price point and contact information
Breakfast options start at Dh40, plates to share (after 1pm) at Dh40, mains (after 1pm) at Dh60. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 10pm; Warehouse 18, Alserkal Avenue, Dubai; 04 388 5600
The review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
