Episodes review: Emirates Palace elevates afternoon tea with flair and a fun twist

From Canadian lobster rolls to chocolate mousse topped with gold leaf, this is not your average afternoon tea

Tea, scones, dainty desserts and gourmet finger sandwiches at Episodes. Photo: Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental

Perched at the tip of Abu Dhabi Corniche, Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental is one of the grandest buildings in the UAE capital.

The beachfront hotel is home to several dining venues, including two Michelin-starred restaurants, Hakkasan and Talea by Antonio Guida.

Launched as part of Mandarin Oriental's acquisition of the five-star hotel — which became official in February — Episodes is the newest dining destination at the hotel.

Comprising of a tea apothecary, a deli, a cake shop and a soon-to-open gelateria, it’s the place to go for artisanal sandwiches, fabulous pastry creations and — the reason I’m here — a whole new take on afternoon tea.

What to expect and where to sit

Episodes is set under a canopy of floral blooms in the lobby of Emirates Palace. Photo: Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental

Calling Episodes a restaurant is perhaps a little misleading as the venue is set up across several areas in the grand hotel atrium. Each dining space has a seating area and is surrounded by fairy-lit tree branches that somehow help retain a sense of intimacy, despite the opulent surroundings.

After salivating over the choices on display in the pretty Mandarin Cake Shop, my husband and I are directed to take a seat directly opposite and sink into comfortable velvet armchairs. Amid wide golden columns and a canopy of pink and white artificial cherry blossoms, we feel almost as if we're sat on a pretty garden terrace, albeit a rather luxurious one.

The menu

In contrast to what has traditionally been the practice for afternoon tea, Episodes serves the feast not on a tiered tray, but rather course-by-course, fine-dining style.

For chef de cuisine Leen Akram Quttineh of Episodes, this is a way to connect people.

“My philosophy is that food brings people together and we enjoy food better with great company. It’s important to find new ways to deliver experiences, allowing our guests to have savoury and sweet offerings before serving a la minute creations to keep our afternoon tea delights at their freshest.”

Proceedings start with a bright pink fruity beverage served in a tiny martini-shaped glass alongside a basil-topped amuse-bouche. Next, it's time to tackle the non-small feat of selecting which teas to have — the menu runs to 10 pages and each choice has been cherry-picked from some of the world's finest teas.

I start with a bamboo white snow tea, which uses the young leaves of the camellia sinensis plant combined with sweet bamboo leaves and cranberries. It is subtle and mild, with a hint of earthiness. My husband opts for a peach bloom tea from the premium selection. It blends peachy notes from the marigold flower with fresh silver needle tea and apricot scents, which is refreshing and light.

Our first course is served as a selection of gourmet finger sandwiches. We are each presented with a beautifully designed plate — painted with blooms — topped with three varieties of sandwiches, including smoked salmon, lobster and mixed vegetables. Two other options are presented underneath smoking glass cloches, which are lifted to release a decadent rosemary-infused vapour.

Perfectly formed scones served on a bed of cocoa nibs. Hayley Skirka / The National

Next up is the daily special and a chef in full whites arrives at our table to serve it. On our visit, it’s a pastry-encrusted duck and lamb terrine, with a vegetable terrine for myself (a non-meat eater). The chef slices the terrine and plates it, adding mustard, cornichons and salad on the side to serve up an artful creation.

Six tiny scones come next, served on a bed of cocoa nibs — with plain, raisin and chocolate and date flavours. Moist and warm, they are accompanied by clotted cream and a selection of organic jams. Finally, we’re presented with an array of mini desserts in appetising reds, oranges, pinks and browns.

To finish, I order an almond latte that comes topped with a barista art love heart while my husband orders a pot of Da Hong Pao oolong aromatic tea. Served in a traditional Chinese tea set, it has a malty finish and is a satisfying end to the afternoon's feast.

Standout dishes

Designed to leave diners satisfied but not entirely satiated, afternoon tea at Episodes is an indulgent way to while away a few hours. Highlights include the gourmet sandwiches — especially the Canadian lobster roll topped with caviar, and the smoked Wagyu beef-filled crusted roll.

Sweet treats have always been a key feature in afternoon tea, and there is no shortage of them at Episodes. My favourite is the minuscule carrot cake — presented as a glazed orange globe on top of a crumbly base — while my husband thoroughly enjoys the delicate strawberry tarts. The chocolate mousse is perhaps the most visually impressive, topped with tuile and gold leaf, but it is a little rich for my liking.

Having a chef serve dishes is a unique touch for afternoon tea and something that's born from Quttineh's philosophy of simple, honest cooking. “I hold a strong belief that there’s a technique and specific handling for every ingredient I source and use in my kitchen,” says the chef.

A chat with the chef

The chef artfully plates a vegetable terrine table-side. Hayley Skirka / The National

Episodes' afternoon tea menu is not static and changes with the seasons, which is all part of the plan.

“I prefer to change the menu seasonally even though we live in the UAE, where the weather and climate don’t allow us to easily grow many seasonal products," the chef says. "We are blessed that we can source anything we want from around the world.”

The menu also focuses on championing local ingredients where possible, with the hotel’s on-site vegetable garden and organic bee farm playing a role in the creation of the menu for this new take on a traditional afternoon pastime.

“Afternoon tea is an experience that should not be rushed. It should allow the guest to enjoy every bite complemented by rare and unique teas selection,” adds Quttineh.

Price point and contact information

Episodes afternoon tea is priced at Dh245 per person, including unlimited teas and coffees. Rare teas are charged extra, ranging from Dh50 for a green tea superior gyokuro from Shizuoaka in Japan that's served in a wine glass, to an additional Dh250 for a black yuan mandarin ancient Chinese tea encased in a rare mandarin fruit.

Episodes at Emirates Palaces Mandarin Oriental is open daily from 8am-11pm. For reservations, call 02 690 7999 or email [e-mail]

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant