Beirut has the mild stench of decay, and it is no coincidence that three retail units have recently closed at the top of my street, the last being the rather convenient HSBC Premier branch that had been open for less than two years.
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Ironically, within spitting distance of all three is Sama Beirut, the luxury 50-storey apartment building that will practically block out the sun when it is completed. I say ironically because construction is the only business that seems to be moving in Lebanon, even if the state can't match it with the necessary infrastructure.
The rest of business, on the back of a bad tourist summer and regional turmoil, is putting on a brave face as the rating agencies slash the growth rates they predicted earlier in the year. The scary thing is that no one seems to be doing much about it; neither the government, which should be busy drawing up action plans to resuscitate the private sector, nor Lebanon's deposit-heavy banking sector, which should be looking at clever ways to "use" all that money.
"You're right, there is absolutely no vision, but that's not the whole story," says an ex-senior banker — let's call him George —turned consultant. "There is poor corporate governance, thin management and incompetence. That about sums up the Lebanese banking sector."
George left banking a few months ago after his employers had consistently failed to "diversify activity" because of what he called "short-sighted conservatism".
Now he sat across from me in a Beirut restaurant in a navy blue polo shirt instead of the usual city banker look he had finessed over years spent in Europe.
"Simply, they are not acting as banks. They are living on deposits and buying T-bills. Corporate lending is weak and they are not offering fixed-income products. Lebanon has a loans-to-deposit ratio of 30 per cent. It's absurd. There is no room for personal initiative. It's all very one-dimensional and it's not creating any value for the economy."
By now George was in his stride, disgusted at the sector to which he had given his best years, but which he says has no respect for initiative. Those who got ahead, he said, were senior managers living in fear of the chairman and his children and who protect themselves by surrounding themselves with yes-men. "Merchant banking, including venture capital and private equity, is the name of the game and they want nothing to do with it," he bemoaned. "They are not looking for ways to make retail banking cheaper and in doing this they are abusing the role the sector should play, especially a sector that is such a key component of the economy."
George leant across the table: "Bottom line, Lebanon is a country of gangs. There is the banking clique, but there is also the government's public-sector gang, and both are encouraging a brain drain. There is no place for talent in Lebanese institutions, public or private."
The rambling accusations of a disgruntled ex-employee or a lucid, albeit impassioned, description, of a sector and country that has no idea where it is going? The government is in a mess and divided. In one corner sit the prime minister, Najib Mikati, who is trying his best to lead the nation and stay a Sunni leader, and Michel Suleiman, the president and figurehead of the republic. In the other is Hizbollah, with nothing to do except play out a regional agenda for Iran and Syria, and its allies in the Free Patriotic Movement led by the Christian Michel Aoun who, it appears, will throw in his lot with anyone who will lead him to the presidency.
"I mean, where are the really talented people in the public sector?" George asked. "Are you telling me that Lebanon's economic problems are so intricate? If so, why don't we try to recruit the cream of our graduates to work in the public sector? We don't, but to be perfectly honest we could get Lebanon's economy back on track after a two-hour working lunch; the issues at hand are not that complex."
By now George was getting quite agitated. His was the look of someone who knew it was either leave and go back to Europe, where life threw up different stresses, or accept the madness that is Lebanon. "Take our gold reserves. We have the 15th-biggest reserves in the world and possibly the biggest per capita. We have 9.22 million ounces and by my calculation that gives us a minimum of US$14 billion (Dh51.42bn) in gold. The state could easily sell $600 million of that and create two funds, one to help the unemployed and those living on the breadline, a social welfare fund if you like, and another, a sovereign wealth fund, to create private initiatives. But what do we do? Nothing."
George paused. "Then again. I suppose even if we did, it would probably fail because the wrong people, political appointees, would be hired to manage these funds. What's the point of having ideas if none can be implemented?"
A Michael Karam is a freelance writer and communication consultant based in Beirut.
German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
Islamophobia definition
A widely accepted definition was made by the All Party Parliamentary Group on British Muslims in 2019: “Islamophobia is rooted in racism and is a type of racism that targets expressions of Muslimness or perceived Muslimness.” It further defines it as “inciting hatred or violence against Muslims”.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
RACE CARD
6.30pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round-3 – Group 1 (PA) $65,000 (Dirt) 2,000m
7.05pm: Handicap (TB) $65,000 (Turf) 1,800m
7.40pm: Meydan Classic – Listed (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,600m
8.15pm: Nad Al Sheba Trophy – Group 3 (TB) $195,000 (T) 2,810m
8.50pm: Dubai Millennium Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $130,000 (T) 2,000m
9.25pm: Meydan Challenge – Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,400m
BULKWHIZ PROFILE
Date started: February 2017
Founders: Amira Rashad (CEO), Yusuf Saber (CTO), Mahmoud Sayedahmed (adviser), Reda Bouraoui (adviser)
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: E-commerce
Size: 50 employees
Funding: approximately $6m
Investors: Beco Capital, Enabling Future and Wain in the UAE; China's MSA Capital; 500 Startups; Faith Capital and Savour Ventures in Kuwait
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
The specs
Engine: 2.5-litre, turbocharged 5-cylinder
Transmission: seven-speed auto
Power: 400hp
Torque: 500Nm
Price: Dh300,000 (estimate)
On sale: 2022
Sri Lanka-India Test series schedule
1st Test July 26-30 in Galle
2nd Test August 3-7 in Colombo
3rd Test August 12-16 in Pallekele
Teachers' pay - what you need to know
Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:
- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools
- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say
- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance
- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs
- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills
- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month
- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues
FIXTURES
UAE’s remaining fixtures in World Cup qualification R2
Oct 8: Malaysia (h)
Oct 13: Indonesia (a)
Nov 12: Thailand (h)
Nov 17: Vietnam (h)
8 traditional Jamaican dishes to try at Kingston 21
- Trench Town Rock: Jamaican-style curry goat served in a pastry basket with a carrot and potato garnish
- Rock Steady Jerk Chicken: chicken marinated for 24 hours and slow-cooked on the grill
- Mento Oxtail: flavoured oxtail stewed for five hours with herbs
- Ackee and salt fish: the national dish of Jamaica makes for a hearty breakfast
- Jamaican porridge: another breakfast favourite, can be made with peanut, cornmeal, banana and plantain
- Jamaican beef patty: a pastry with ground beef filling
- Hellshire Pon di Beach: Fresh fish with pickles
- Out of Many: traditional sweet potato pudding
The Vile
Starring: Bdoor Mohammad, Jasem Alkharraz, Iman Tarik, Sarah Taibah
Director: Majid Al Ansari
Rating: 4/5
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
If you go
The flights
Etihad (etihad.com) flies from Abu Dhabi to Luang Prabang via Bangkok, with a return flight from Chiang Rai via Bangkok for about Dh3,000, including taxes. Emirates and Thai Airways cover the same route, also via Bangkok in both directions, from about Dh2,700.
The cruise
The Gypsy by Mekong Kingdoms has two cruising options: a three-night, four-day trip upstream cruise or a two-night, three-day downstream journey, from US$5,940 (Dh21,814), including meals, selected drinks, excursions and transfers.
The hotels
Accommodation is available in Luang Prabang at the Avani, from $290 (Dh1,065) per night, and at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp and Resort from $1,080 (Dh3,967) per night, including meals, an activity and transfers.
UK’s AI plan
- AI ambassadors such as MIT economist Simon Johnson, Monzo cofounder Tom Blomfield and Google DeepMind’s Raia Hadsell
- £10bn AI growth zone in South Wales to create 5,000 jobs
- £100m of government support for startups building AI hardware products
- £250m to train new AI models
2019 Asian Cup final
Japan v Qatar
Friday, 6pm
Zayed Sports City Stadium, Abu Dhabi