Why East Timor?
Ever wonder what Bali looked like before mass tourism? Now you can find out. Thirteen years after independence, East Timor is developing a tourist infrastructure centred around mid-range hotels and eco-resorts showcasing its unspoilt coasts and mountainous terrain. Tourism is currently based around the capital, Dili, and Atauro Island, an idyllic retreat one hour away by speedboat. On the island’s eastern side, adventurous travellers can explore a birding habitat that’s home to 30 or so endemic species or visit the pristine Jaco Island.
East Timor is at the southern edge of the Coral Triangle, surrounded by some of the planet's least-spoilt coral reefs. Two operators, Compass Charters (www.compassadventuretours.com; 00670 7723 0965) and Dive Timor Lorosaé (www.divetimor.com; 00670 7723 7092), offer day shore diving packages from Dili and Padi certification courses. Compass runs daily speedboats to Atauro Island (US$45 [Dh165] each way, advance booking essential), where it operates an eco-resort at Adara. Two-day dive packages, with food, basic beachside accommodation and round-trip transportation to Dili, start from $250 (Dh918). Other activities include snorkelling, dolphin and whale watching and trekking coast-to-coast or to Mount Manucoco, the island's highest point, with spectacular views back to Dili. Dive Timor Lorosaé operates two- to seven-day dive safaris.
A comfortable bed
All of the well-appointed rooms at the popular Hotel Esplanada (www.hotelesplanada.com; 00670 3313088) face a pool surrounded by lush vegetation. Double rooms cost from $115 (Dh 422), including breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Barry’s Place (00670 7723 6084), an eco-resort run by an Australian expat and his Timorese wife, is the place to stay on Atauro Island. Ocean waves lull visitors to sleep in simple beachfront cabins. Cabins cost from $30 (Dh110) per person, full board.
The most comfortable hotel in Baucau, East Timor's second largest city, is Pousada de Baucau (www.pousadadebaucau.com; 00670 724 1111), a three-hour drive from Dili along a dramatic coastal road. The hotel boasts a pool and an excellent all-day restaurant. Doubles cost from $70 (Dh257), including breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Find your feet
A stroll is mandatory around the central section of Dili’s scenic harbour, from which speedboats depart daily and a ferry weekly for Atauro Island. Atauro itself is best explored on foot. Paths traverse the coast, but be aware of tides. Adara, on the opposite side of the Atauro Island from where the speedboat docks at Barry’s Place, makes a popular day trek to excellent snorkelling and is also accessible via outrigger (a round trip costs about $50 [Dh184] per person – prices are negotiable).
Meet the locals
On Fridays, beginning at sunset, locals and expats mingle for a live music night at the Hotel Esplanada.
Book a table
The waterside Novo Horizonte Lounge and Bar (www.novohorizontehotels.com; 00670 3311237), favoured by locals for celebrations, serves Portuguese-inflected food, including grilled fish, steaks ($15 [Dh55]) and desserts.
Chef Cesar Luordes, a local mainstay of the slow-food movement, prepares fish saboko – wrapped in palm leaves and flame-grilled – seasonal local produce and other Timorese specialities at the beachfront L'Aubergine Bar & Bistro (www.facebook.com/pages/LAubergine-front-beach-Restaurant/149816148543861) Dishes cost from $7.50 (Dh28).
Manukoko-Rek (00670 7748 7301) on Atauro Island serves up excellent tagliatelle, gnocchi and pizza, made to the standards of a resident Italian priest. Dishes from $7 (Dh28).
Shopper’s paradise
East Timor lacks international shops. Alola Esperansa (www.alolafoundation.org) sells tais – intricate handwoven traditional textiles – woodcarvings and local coffee. Prices are fixed and revenues benefit artisans and development projects. Lower quality tais are also available at the Tais Market at Colmera; haggling is essential.
Pateo (Rua Dom Fernando; 00670 7756 5822) imports delectable Portuguese foodstuffs – cheese, charcuterie – at duty-free prices.
What to avoid
Taxis are unmetered, and fares must be negotiated in advance, but $3 (Dh11) should more than cover most trips. One-way airport journeys cost $10 [Dh37]. Cabs typically operate only during the day. Night-time trips must be pre-arranged.
Don’t miss
A 20-minute drive from central Dili, the tree-shaded, 700-step climb to the base of the enormous Cristo Rei statue is a must for the view of Dili’s half-moon harbour. Morning is the best time for a visit, followed by a swim at the adjoining beach.
Go there
Flights to East Timor are regular but limited, taking about 14 hours from the UAE but requiring an additional layover in one direction. Return flights with Emirates (www.emirates.com) and Silk Air (www.silkair.com), via Singapore, cost from Dh2,135, including taxes.
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