Rotterdam is a city that works

My kind of place: The Dutch port town has built its sleek, arty appeal on a blue-collar foundation.

Rotterdam’s rebuilt waterfront, levelled during the Second World War, features a glittering line-up of starchitect-designed high-rises. Courtesy Rotterdam Partners

Why Rotterdam?

In the 70 years since it was more or less destroyed in the Second World War, Rotterdam hasn’t attempted to recreate the past. The Netherlands’ second city has let itself be a blank canvas for architects. This means a skyline of very un-Dutch high-rises and some projects that are rather more daring than a bog-standard glass tower.

Home to Europe’s largest port, Rotterdam has long been a sleeves-rolled-up city – no-nonsense, businesslike and perhaps a little gruff. But it is also properly multicultural and looks to the future rather than the past.

The embrace of the new and willingness to run with unusual ideas have given Rotterdam a very distinctive and eclectic look. And that works greatly in its favour.

A comfortable bed

Once the headquarters of the Holland America shipping line, Hotel New York (www.hotelnewyork.com) absolutely oozes atmospherics. It has kept plenty of its heritage on display, such as the metal trunks in the lobby and given each room individually styled quirks. Almost a destination itself, this is where to come for afternoon tea. Small rooms start at €99 (Dh408).

The Bazar (www.bazarrotterdam.nl) is in keeping with the arty, multicultural street it's on, and has rooms themed on Africa, the Middle East and South America. The cafe-restaurant downstairs is excellent, too. Doubles cost from €80 (Dh330).

The H2otel (www.h2otel.nl), meanwhile, is like staying on a boat for people who want something sturdier. It's on the water, but it's a large, permanent structure. Bedrooms costing from €54 (Dh223) – complete with nautical porthole windows – are surprisingly high quality for the price.

Find your feet

Start with the bizarrely beguiling distorted chevron of Centraal Station, then head along the Westersingel canal, which has a series of odd sculptures installed alongside it. You'll eventually end up at the Museumpark and of the clutch of museums there, the Boijmans Van Beuningen (www.boijmans.nl) should be the prime choice. There's very little filler among the art collection, and it's particularly strong on the Dalís. As art museums go, it's brilliant for novices, as engaging explanations of art history and the individual works are in every room.

Go along the waterfront to see the swan-like Erasmus Bridge, and the series of starchitect constructions on the Wilhemenapier. Then finish up at the Binnenrotte Square, where the newly opened market hall is Rotterdam’s latest piece of architectural chutzpah. It’s like a giant glass-filled horseshoe – and it stands opposite the weirdest houses in the city. The Overblaak development has a series of what seem to be cubes on poles next to an apartment block that looks like a pencil.

Meet the locals

Het Park, under the shadow of the Euromast tower, is one of Rotterdam’s few green spaces. Hence when the sun’s out, it quickly fills with locals cooking barbecues.

Book a table

François Geurds, a former sous chef for Heston Blumenthal, is in charge of the two-Michelin-starred FG (fgrestaurant.nl). It's full-on gastronomic, liquid-nitrogen tricks territory, with the 11-course tasting menu costing €115 (Dh474). More laid-back is his FG Food Labs (www.fgfoodlabs.nl), where he tests out new ideas inside an old railway arch. Four courses, including the usual theatrics, cost €60 (Dh247).

At the other end of the scale, the perma-packed Warung Mini (www.warungmini.com) gives a taste of the old Dutch colonies, combining Surinamese and Indonesian cuisine. The €4.50 (Dh19) saoto soup has legendary status.

Shopper’s paradise

Witte de Withstraat has long been a cultural hub, with plenty of small arts venues and cafes. But it also has a few rather interesting shops as well. Galerie van Eijck sells gloriously cartoonish and colourful model animals, plus boldly sumptuous glassware. A little farther on, Margreeth Olsthoorn straddles the line between indie boutique and hip designer department store.

Other shopping strips include Nieuwe Binnenweg, which has a few up-and-coming local designers and record stores sprinkled into the mix.

What to avoid

Be aware that the Netherlands is astonishingly unfriendly towards credit cards and foreign debit cards. Don’t make the mistake of relying on them – even supermarkets and expensive restaurants can be cash-only.

Don’t miss

The Nederlands Foto Museum (www.nederlandsfotomuseum.nl) has good temporary photography exhibits, but the Dark Room section downstairs is utterly absorbing. Putting plastic sheets in trays (it's designed to mimic the photo development process) brings up video presentations of the back stories to photos on display. Multiple themes – from pop-music photography to Dutch fields – are covered, and the stories make you look in a different way at seemingly simple images.

Getting there

Etihad (www.etihad.com) flies from Abu Dhabi to Amsterdam starting from Dh3,405. Direct trains from the airport to Rotterdam cost €11.90 (Dh49) and take just under an hour.

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