To say I was sceptical when I walked into Firebird Diner by Michael Mina in the Four Seasons Hotel DIFC is an understatement.
As an American who has eaten in too many diners to count, it is hard for me to arrive at an American-style diner in Dubai without a big chip on my shoulder – how can a bustling, young city like Dubai possibly deliver an authentic, 1950s-era classic American diner experience?
As is the case with many new concepts in Dubai, Firebird Diner comes with a twist: it is a diner that’s been reimagined as “a gourmet interpretation of American cuisine”. If I was reading between the lines – and I am – that sounds like “expensive diner food”.
While I am happy to see respect paid to a style of American cuisine that is as recognisable in my home country as the stars and stripes, my heart sank a little when I realised that this wasn’t going to be the familiar experience I had hoped for.
There are many authentic touches at Firebird Diner. The decor is typical black and white, complete with chequered floor. There are bright-red chairs scattered at stand-alone tables. It is awash with chrome. There is a counter with bar stools. And there are booths, without which no diner would be complete.
It definitely looks and feels like a diner, no question – but it has a heavy layer of shine that’s less American diner and more, well, Four Seasons, or perhaps Disney World.
This is no traditional, greasy diner straight out of the north-eastern United States, where American diners were born. Firebird is chic – trendy even. When I went, the music was a bit too loud and, while I did hear some classic 1950s Americana, I also heard The Doors and The Police, which left me confused.
There are a handful of dishes you would expect to find in a diner – including tomato soup and grilled-cheese sandwiches, chicken wings, an “All American” burger and sundaes – and I applaud them for that.
But then the menu starts creeping up the epicurean ladder. Staying loyal to its “gourmet interpretation of American cuisine” concept, this diner also offers Australian lamb chops with smoked aubergine (Dh175), lobster pot pie with truffle cream (market price), and 250g of fillet medallions (Dh250), which you can order with a Dh50 side of seared foie gras.
It is probably the only American diner in the world that features Ossetra caviar on the menu – in parfait form, no less. It is also worth noting that the mac and cheese – that standard diner dish – comes with black truffles here.
I held fast to my dreams of tucking into greasy diner food and ordered popcorn shrimp and the All American burger. My husband chose the New England lobster rolls and the roasted Gulf red snapper.
For the most part, the food is good. My generous portion of shrimp was perfectly cooked, enveloped in a light and crispy batter and served with a tasty, spicy, chilli-lime mayonnaise. We loved it.
The lobster rolls were also a hit, although they are a far cry from the traditional New England lobster rolls that north-east Americans know so well. In what can best be described as the lobster roll’s fancier, wealthier cousin, this dish comes as chunks of sweet lobster mixed with mayonnaise, celery and Old Bay seasoning (delicious) balanced on two toasted, buttered brioche strips. It’s an upscale twist done well.
The mains were less thrilling. The red snapper won the honour of our least favourite dish. The thick piece of fish was chewy and overcooked. Saying that we needed a steak knife to cut through it is only a slight exaggeration. It was under-seasoned, flavourless and underwhelming. It came topped with edible flowers, which I couldn’t bring my unpretentious self to eat.
The burger was the closest thing to traditional diner food that we ordered – and it wasn’t bad. But for Dh110, I wanted it to be great. The patty was slightly overcooked, but still tasty, helped by the delicious onion marmalade. There was a hint of Gouda cheese and some shreds of wilted lettuce – neither of which upped the wow factor.
There are some great desserts at Firebird Diner – including a three-layer carrot cake awash with walnuts and cinnamon, and a berry-covered cheesecake that is worth the calories – and I left confident I would return to explore the rest of the menu.
Chef Michael Mina – an Egyptian-born American who has 18 restaurants around the world (two of which have one Michelin star) – has curated a menu at Firebird Diner that is worth talking about. However, the price-point doesn’t match the execution.
And no matter how tasty, whether any of this food should be sold under the guise of American diner food is debatable, at best.
• Our meal for two at Firebird Diner by Michael Mina, DIFC, cost Dh490. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito
sjohnson@thenational.ae
