Beirut sometime last year, on one of the beaches that dot the landscape south of the city. I'm here with a Lebanese musician, whose voice fills the gritty bars of Gemmayzeh on the weekends and who is now dancing to the rhythmic beat of Lebanese electronica, a silhouette against the waves.
The sun will rise any minute and we will drive, eyes half closed, sand in our hair, back to the urban world. At moments like this, I understand why people fall in love with the Arab world and wonder why anyone would leave.
Few who have visited the region walk away without similar memories, yet the narrative of those who don't visit or don't understand what they see is often quite different, a vision rooted in endless political troubles or extravagant wealth. Until the revolutions in North Africa began earlier this year, few of those long-held ideas were challenged.
This tapestry of an alternatively stagnant or opulent region, filled with apathy or luxury, which has gained currency among a host of Arab-watchers and a handful of Arabs themselves, is fatally flawed. Tug even briefly at its narrative thread and it unravels, revealing an outdated orientalism underpinning it.
To see why, start with that most ephemeral of ascriptions, the idea that the Arab world is suddenly "cool". Coolness is impossible to define, though entire industries thrive on a manufactured idea of spontaneous consensus. As near as possible, coolness is objective subjectivity: the belief of a select group of people that something matters, transmitted to a wider group who then believe it.
This is the case with music and fashion, where trends that are created from a consensus seem to be spotted like rare animals.
The current ascription of coolness to the Arab world because of the revolutionary spirit coursing through it hangs on two related ideas of coolness, one aspirational, the other assertive.
The aspirational part relies on the vague idea that revolutions are always cool, in the sense that upending an old order is exciting. Yet these moments are exciting because they can plunge either way, and somehow reducing this movement to fashion minimises the suffering and experiences of the people. As a journalist colleague pointed out:"It's distasteful to be talking about cool at a time when there's a war going on."
(This ascription also ignores the immense complicity of other countries in maintaining the status quo in Qaddafi's Libya and Mubarak's Egypt. Speaking metaphorically, many of those now cheering from the sidelines were handing out weapons before the game.)
Moreover, the idea that revolution is the only aspirational aspect of Arab culture ignores the rather glaring fact that the region's culture has been interesting to outsiders for centuries. Some elements of Arab culture have travelled easily around the world: one can find the influences of Arab literature, food and design everywhere, which is not the case, for example, with Russian décor or English cuisine.
The second part of this might be called assertive coolness, the implication that one region has the right to spot and thus confer social approval on another.
One of the hallmarks of the Arab revolutions has been how they have comprehensively undermined notions of the importance of the gaze of the Other (where the other is the West), not by proving it wrong, but by rendering it redundant. The military superiority of the West and its propensity to use that to inflict violence for political gain has meant that in many countries, particularly those that were colonised, the idea of the West still functions as a yardstick against which culture and society is measured.
That solipsistic idea has been maintained in the minds of many politicians, journalists, even Western publics; that the measure that matters is the measure they provide.
Thus for many in the West, it is hard to conceive of a reality that does not, by implication, fit into this framework.
One of the reasons why Western watchers have been so far on the wrong side of the public mood in the Arab world is that, for so many years, they were absorbing incorrect information. Talk of the stagnation of the region was framed as if it were a reflection of the propensities of Arab culture - or, for the more racist, talk of an Arab mindset - rather than the result of continued outside financial and military backing of unrepresentative regimes. The Arabs did not want to be apathetic, but the lack of political space forced the removal of participation from the political sphere.
Ditto the often meaningless discussion of modernity, as if the millions of people languishing at the tail-end of capitalism in the West were somehow more modern than the urbanites of Beirut and Baghdad.
Comparing the masses of poor in the Arab world to the rich elite of the West set up an impossible dichotomy, one that obscured understanding of a complex region while also whitewashing the lives of the millions of poor in the West.
Thus when the spark came in Tunisia, the framework of the Western gaze suddenly seemed redundant. It was the Arabs themselves who provided the leadership and tactics that overthrew the Western-backed regimes and Al Jazeera that provided the context and reporting.
American and European politicians scrambled to piggyback on the popular protests and Western media tried to frame a narrative that included a Western component. This process seemed to offer Americans and Europeans a compensatory feeling of significance, especially important given that their billion-dollar, decades-old constriction was unravelling.
It is this context that the assertion of coolness - and more broadly, the conference of approval - needs to be understood, as an attempt to explain the complexities of what is now happening in the region within the familiar language and framework of fashion. But that framework is redundant: the Arabs are not protesting because it's cool, they are protesting because it's essential. Far from being reflected through the gaze of the West, the revolutions have reduced the West to standing on the sidelines, watching a movement it can barely understand.
Writing from the region, it is hard to be comforted by the idea of popular uprisings having popular appeal abroad, given that they have been tough and bloody and may get bloodier still. There are plenty of sons who will not be going home, plenty of fathers who will not know their children. Such tragedy is only fashionable in the abstract.
In the West, we have struggled to understand all this because we've been using the wrong framework, viewing the region through the wrong lens. The Arabs haven't become cool just because we've noticed. Like walking in halfway through a movie and trying to guess what is happening, the West is only now catching up with a long-unfolding plot.
falyafai@thenational.ae
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
PREMIER LEAGUE FIXTURES
Saturday (UAE kick-off times)
Watford v Leicester City (3.30pm)
Brighton v Arsenal (6pm)
West Ham v Wolves (8.30pm)
Bournemouth v Crystal Palace (10.45pm)
Sunday
Newcastle United v Sheffield United (5pm)
Aston Villa v Chelsea (7.15pm)
Everton v Liverpool (10pm)
Monday
Manchester City v Burnley (11pm)
Gulf Men's League final
Dubai Hurricanes 24-12 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
Company%20profile
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Know your Camel lingo
The bairaq is a competition for the best herd of 50 camels, named for the banner its winner takes home
Namoos - a word of congratulations reserved for falconry competitions, camel races and camel pageants. It best translates as 'the pride of victory' - and for competitors, it is priceless
Asayel camels - sleek, short-haired hound-like racers
Majahim - chocolate-brown camels that can grow to weigh two tonnes. They were only valued for milk until camel pageantry took off in the 1990s
Millions Street - the thoroughfare where camels are led and where white 4x4s throng throughout the festival
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
Who was Alfred Nobel?
The Nobel Prize was created by wealthy Swedish chemist and entrepreneur Alfred Nobel.
- In his will he dictated that the bulk of his estate should be used to fund "prizes to those who, during the preceding year, have conferred the greatest benefit to humankind".
- Nobel is best known as the inventor of dynamite, but also wrote poetry and drama and could speak Russian, French, English and German by the age of 17. The five original prize categories reflect the interests closest to his heart.
- Nobel died in 1896 but it took until 1901, following a legal battle over his will, before the first prizes were awarded.
TRAP
Starring: Josh Hartnett, Saleka Shyamalan, Ariel Donaghue
Director: M Night Shyamalan
Rating: 3/5
Skoda Superb Specs
Engine: 2-litre TSI petrol
Power: 190hp
Torque: 320Nm
Price: From Dh147,000
Available: Now
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
GULF MEN'S LEAGUE
Pool A Dubai Hurricanes, Bahrain, Dubai Exiles, Dubai Tigers 2
Pool B Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Jebel Ali Dragons, Dubai Knights Eagles, Dubai Tigers
Opening fixtures
Thursday, December 5
6.40pm, Pitch 8, Abu Dhabi Harlequins v Dubai Knights Eagles
7pm, Pitch 2, Jebel Ali Dragons v Dubai Tigers
7pm, Pitch 4, Dubai Hurricanes v Dubai Exiles
7pm, Pitch 5, Bahrain v Dubai Eagles 2
Recent winners
2018 Dubai Hurricanes
2017 Dubai Exiles
2016 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2015 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
2014 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
In numbers
Number of Chinese tourists coming to UAE in 2017 was... 1.3m
Alibaba’s new ‘Tech Town’ in Dubai is worth... $600m
China’s investment in the MIddle East in 2016 was... $29.5bn
The world’s most valuable start-up in 2018, TikTok, is valued at... $75bn
Boost to the UAE economy of 5G connectivity will be... $269bn
Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
The years Ramadan fell in May
Should late investors consider cryptocurrencies?
Wealth managers recommend late investors to have a balanced portfolio that typically includes traditional assets such as cash, government and corporate bonds, equities, commodities and commercial property.
They do not usually recommend investing in Bitcoin or other cryptocurrencies due to the risk and volatility associated with them.
“It has produced eye-watering returns for some, whereas others have lost substantially as this has all depended purely on timing and when the buy-in was. If someone still has about 20 to 25 years until retirement, there isn’t any need to take such risks,” Rupert Connor of Abacus Financial Consultant says.
He adds that if a person is interested in owning a business or growing a property portfolio to increase their retirement income, this can be encouraged provided they keep in mind the overall risk profile of these assets.
The%20specs
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The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
MATCH INFO
Quarter-finals
Saturday (all times UAE)
England v Australia, 11.15am
New Zealand v Ireland, 2.15pm
Sunday
Wales v France, 11.15am
Japan v South Africa, 2.15pm
'The Last Days of Ptolemy Grey'
Rating: 3/5
Directors: Ramin Bahrani, Debbie Allen, Hanelle Culpepper, Guillermo Navarro
Writers: Walter Mosley
Stars: Samuel L Jackson, Dominique Fishback, Walton Goggins
RESULTS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m
Winner: Raghida, Szczepan Mazur (jockey), Ibrahim Al Hadhrami (trainer)
5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,600m
Winner: AF Alareeq, Connor Beasley, Ahmed Al Mehairbi
6pm: Arabian Triple Crown Round-2 Group 3 (PA) Dh300,000 2,200m
Winner: Basmah, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel
6.30pm: Liwa Oasis Group 2 (PA) Dh300,000 1,400m
Winner: AF Alwajel, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 1,600m
Winner: SS Jalmod, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
7.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh100,000 1,600m
Winner: Trolius, Ryan Powell, Simon Crisford
Paris%20Agreement
%3Cp%3EArticle%2014%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E1.%20%5BThe%20Cop%5D%20shall%20periodically%20take%20stock%20of%20the%20implementation%20of%20this%20Agreement%20to%20assess%20the%20collective%20progress%20towards%20achieving%20the%20purpose%20of%20this%20Agreement%20and%20its%20long-term%20goals%20(referred%20to%20as%20the%20%22global%20stocktake%22)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E2.%20%5BThe%20Cop%5D%20shall%20undertake%20its%20first%20global%20stocktake%20in%202023%20and%20every%20five%20years%20thereafter%C2%A0%3C%2Fp%3E%0A