Here are some of our favourite finds from this year’s edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie watch fair, which was held in January in Geneva.
1. Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio, Officine Panerai
Limited to 150 pieces worldwide, the Lo Scienziato collection is dedicated to Galileo Galilei, the 16th-century Italian astronomer and mathematician. This newest skeleton edition is offered in titanium for the first time, making the watch 35 per cent lighter. It measures 47 millimetres and houses a P.2005 calibre, paired here for the first time with a tourbillon.
2. Capeland Shelby Cobra limited edition, Baume & Mercier
The result of a partnership with the late American performance-car designer Carroll Shelby, this watch is inspired by Cobra racing cars and the men who drove them. Specifically based around the CSX2128 sports car, this watch is limited to 1,963 pieces, from the year the company won its first championship. With a 44mm case, the dial has asymmetrical chronographs, inspired by the Cobra’s dashboard, and a cobra motif on the second hand. The yellow detailing is based on the original paintwork for the car, designed by celebrated driver Allen Grant and filmmaker George Lucas. A “competition kit” is also offered, featuring a yellow loop inside the vulcanised black rubber strap.
3. Limelight Stella, Piaget
Piaget has unveiled Limelight Stella, its first watch with complications dedicated to women, and with it, an exceptional piece of haute joaillerie. An 18-carat white gold 39mm case is rail set with 62 baguette diamonds and 249 brilliant-cut diamonds. The face is made of white mother-of-pearl, with a moonphase dial at 12 o’clock, undercut with 14 brilliant-cut diamonds and white gold hour markers. The bracelet is set with 224 baguette diamonds. Finally, it has a 42-hour power reserve and 580P calibre self-winding movement.
4. Velvet Secret Heart, Roger Dubuis
In celebration of the Swiss watchmaker’s female customers, this 36mm watch is decorated with a double layer of 46 brilliant-cut diamonds around a blue dial. The dial is marked with Roman numerals, with white gold appliqués set at 6 and 12 o’clock. At its heart rests a RD821B self-winding calibre, with a retrograde jumping date feature. Carrying the Poinçon de Genève mark, this watch is limited to a production of just eight pieces.
5. Aquatimer 2000, IWC Schaffhausen
With the prototype designed in 1982 for mine-clearance divers, the non-military version of the Aquatimer first appeared as the Ocean 2000. The family of timepieces has now grown to include this latest edition, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000. Water-resistant to 200 bar, and with the size increased to 46mm, the lightweight titanium case, and luminescent dial and hands make it ideal for divers. Extra elements are a bezel designed to be easy to turn, even through gloves, and an XXL strap option, for wearing over a wetsuit. It’s a highly functional watch and the only embellishment is an engraving of a deep-sea diver’s helmet on the reverse.
6. Overseas Small Model, Vacheron Constantin
Adorned with 84 round-cut diamonds set around a distinctive six-sided bezel, the Small Model is a delicate new addition to the long-standing Overseas family. Housed within an 18-carat pink gold 37mm case is a new 5300 calibre, with a 44-hour power reserve and interchangeable straps of leather, steel or rubber. The piece is certified with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark.
