The welcome
The front desk team must be short-staffed when I arrive, because I have to wait for about 15 minutes while another guest asks numerous questions of the only employee present. The employee was polite and apologetic, and luckily the Ion’s lobby is a nice place to hang out: low chairs and sofas with orange rough-wool cushions and sunlight streaming through the picture windows.
The neighbourhood
About 30 kilometres from Reykjavik, apart from the road and nearby Nesjavallavirkjun Geothermal Power Station (the world’s second largest), which gushes steam into the air, there are no signs of human life. The natural world, however, has been busy. Behind the hotel is an ancient lava flow with the gaping mouths of old lava tubes; in front, the land sweeps to Lake Thingvellir’s shores, with waters inhabiting the rift valley that marks the divide between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
The room
My ground-floor room is warm and cosy, but – as with many hotels in Iceland – not luxurious. The bathroom is good but not flashy, the bed is very comfortable and room fittings practical. There’s a safe and a small kettle with mugs and coffee and tea. This is an older standard room and the only one available; there are newer and more luxurious deluxe rooms. Every room has fair-trade organic linens, hypoallergenic beds, and toiletries from the local company Sóley Organics, which makes its products using Icelandic spring water and renewable energy. My view is across the icy wastes and along the southern edge of the old lava flow.
The scene
In winter, the big event is to see the Northern Lights. After supper, guests (mainly Europeans) wrap themselves up, find a spot in the car park and look up to the skies. I’m woken one night by someone banging on my door and yelling. Thinking there’s a fire, I pull on my clothes and run out to find the car park full of people and a great display overhead.
The service
Apart from the slow check-in, the staff are friendly and helpful, full of information and enthusiasm for their country, and amusing in a dry, quirky way.
The food
Ion’s restaurant, Silfra, serves new Nordic cuisine and focuses on local produce where possible – no mean feat in this subpolar climate. My starter, Arctic char, was caught just a few kilometres away in the rift valley lake, and is served with dill, apples and fish roe (2,300 Icelandic kronur [Dh64]). My main course is a deliciously smoky, tender baked Icelandic lamb fillet with vegetables (5,900 kronur [Dh164]).
Loved
The overall cosiness of the hotel, Silfra and the large outdoor geothermal pool (part of the small Lava Spa), all set amid the most beautifully harsh of landscapes.
Hated
The delays at the front desk, but it was peak season.
The verdict
A genuinely Icelandic experience, from the design and architecture to the views, activities, food and amazing geothermal pool.
The bottom line
Standard twin rooms at Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel (www.ioniceland.is; 00354 482 3415) cost from €219 (Dh899) per night, including taxes and Wi-Fi, but excluding breakfast (2,300 kronur [Dh64] per person, per day) .
* Matthew Brace
