The welcome
I walk to the hotel from Southwark Underground station, about five minutes away. The main entrance isn’t on the riverfront – it’s on a street behind called Upper Ground, but it’s nevertheless impressive, with a glass front. Inside, there’s a huge blue sculpture of a chain; behind that is a copper-panelled reception area resembling the hull of a ship. As I enter, nobody is immediately available to take my bags, and I’m halfway up the ramp before staff reach me.
The neighbourhood
The hotel is on London’s South Bank in Sea Containers House, a 1970s building that was always intended to be a hotel but until now has been offices. It’s right on the river, with the riverside walkway running underneath it and connecting it to sites such as Royal Festival Hall, Hayward Gallery, Tate Modern and the Globe theatre. The City of London is across the river and most sights are easily accessible.
The scene
This is an exciting, glamorous hotel. Interior design, by Tom Dixon, is sleek and playful, working with the building’s name and nautical theme. The structure’s original architect was the American Warren Platner; together with the Mondrian brand, this is as successful a throwback to the golden age of travel as I’ve seen. Other guests seem to be mainly fortysomething businesspeople or smart holidaymakers. The main restaurant, Sea Containers, is busy with a broad spectrum of well-heeled guests, including families and young couples. The rooftop bar, the Rumpus Room, is frequented by sharp-suited young businessmen on Thursday night and a mix of office workers on Friday night. Large parts of the building are still offices, but kept separate from the hotel, which you feel occupies the entire space.
The room
My room is a decadent fifth-floor balcony suite facing the river. Most rooms don’t face the river or have balconies. I love the fresh air and the sound of the waves and seagulls; also the wood floor, velvety furnishings, innovative lighting and marble bathroom. The comfortable sofa and circular dining table make it feel like home. I wish.
The service
There are plenty of staff, all of whom are helpful, though some are more knowledgeable than others. Sea Containers, where you also have breakfast, is a great space and service seems to be on the basis of need rather than a constant presence, so sometimes you have to wave for attention.
The food
The breakfast buffet in Sea Containers (£19 [Dh108], including tea and coffee) is well-edited, with fresh juices, local yogurt, berries, sourdough toast and a selection of hot items. At dinner, I like the yuzu mixed seafood ceviche (£16 [Dh91]), oven-roasted lamb meatballs (£8 [Dh46]) and the sharing mains of roasted sea bass (£35 [Dh200]) and rib eye steak (£69 [Dh393]).
Loved
The views of the river and the design. In the spa, I had an excellent 50-minute “Agua advanced bodyworks” massage, using unusual techniques to great effect (£90; Dh513). The hotel has its own art-deco-style in-house basement cinema (www.curzonmondrian.com).
Hated
I was given two cups of filter coffee at breakfast that were not hot and told I’d have to pay extra for a cappuccino and glass of sparkling water. There’s a no trainers or flip-flops policy in the Rumpus Room.
The verdict
A great, glamorous base.
The bottom line
Double rooms at the Mondrian London (www.mondrianlondon.com; 0044 203 747 1000) cost from £167 (Dh952) per night, including taxes, room only.
rbehan@thenational.ae
