Fashion Forward Season 5 kicks off in style

Fashion Forward runs until April 13 with shows and talks taking place at Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah. Here are the highlights from Day 1 and a look at which upcoming runway presentations you won’t want to miss.

Ball gowns at a Ezra Santos show, at Dubai's Fashion Forward. Getty Images for Fashion Forward

It’s cooler, it’s calmer, it’s more collected. Hats off to the Fashion Forward team, as the event appears to have hit its stride in season five.

A welcome change this time around were orderly queues of fashion enthusiasts waiting to gain entry to shows, as opposed to swarms of people knocking on the great hall’s doors. Gone also were elevated catwalks, instead replaced by wide-floor runways and velveteen-covered seats for the viewing masses.

Shows felt more intimate and home-grown brands such as Ezra and Emperor 1688 were fitting first-day acts, earning much-deserved standing ovations.

The Garden area, home to up-and-coming accessories designers, had undergone a bit of an edit, too, with edgy Emirati brands such as Pose Arazzi debuting avant-garde collections.

First up: Ezra Santos

It’s never easy being the opening act but master couturier Ezra Santos pulled off Fashion Forward’s first show with aplomb.

The designer didn’t disappoint, with a collection of romantic gowns inspired by the Spanish colonisation of his native Philippines.

The finale played out like a ballet, with models in oversized gowns swooning elegantly to the floor like swans, sinking into metres of tulle silk. To help them back to their stilettoed feet for the walk to the dressing room there was a matador dressed in jodhpurs and a laser cut bolero black jacket.

As the curtain fell, fellow designer and long-time friend of Ezra, Michael Cinco shared his thoughts on the collection.

What did you think of the show?

I think it was amazing. It was one of his best collections. In fact, I think it may be his best collection so far.

What was the standout piece for you?

I think the ball gowns were the standouts – they were very couture.

How about the unconventional close to the show, with models sitting on the runway?

I thought it was very dramatic. I really loved it. It was a great change.

You’re not showing this season at Fashion Forward – why not?

No, I’m not showing this season because I’m doing the wedding of the President of Kazakhstan’s family and I’m in Malaysia, so I’m very busy. There are so many gowns, it’s almost like I’m doing a whole collection.

Can you tell us whether you'll be showing at season six?

Well, yes, most probably [laughs]. And I must say that I think Fashion Forward is getting better every season. I believe it’s such a good idea to have it – especially for the designers in Dubai.

• For the full Fashion Forward schedule, visit www.fashionforward.ae. Check out our daily coverage on the All Dressed Up blog

Other highlights

Emperor 1688

We loved: The bold decision to do a uniquely womenswear collection

We applaud: The classic yet contemporary silhouettes and strategic zip detailing

We want: Cropped fox-fur jackets in ice white and royal-blue cropped-sleeved coats

Newcomer lowdown: Pose Arazzi

Who: Emirati sisters Hessa and Hanan Al Shafar

Where: Their pop-up shop is at The Garden

What: Think edgy separates, abayas and statement pieces, all of which are limited editions. Take a look at the duo's spring/summer collection, which was influenced by the human body. You can't miss the stand – the designers are dressed in lab coats, and on display are eye-catching numbers including a transparent, wrap-around stole, the structure of which mirrors a pair of lungs. www.posearazzi.com

For your Fashion Forward diary on Sunday, April 12

6.30pm – Madiyah Al Sharqi, the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, sends her latest collection down the ramp.

7pm – Style icon Diane Pernet, founder of the organisation ASVOFF (A Shaded View of Fashion & Film), and Butheina Kazim of Cinema Akil deliver a talk on the cross-pollination of couture and celluloid.

8pm – House of Nomad, an earthy brand with street-savvy pieces, will reveal its latest collections.

9.30pm – He closes Fashion Forward every season, and Furne One is yet again expected to wow the crowds with his Amato Haute Couture collection.