Despite the conspicuous absence of the Kardashian clan at Paris Fashion Week this season, there has still been plenty of glitz and glamour surrounding shows in the French capital. Pret-a-porter presentations kicked off in style on February 28 and the last model will take a turn on the runway on Wednesday, March 8.
Of the designers that have unveiled new collections so far, the emphasis has been on high-shine fabrics, polished and patent leathers. From tiaras to toeless booties, fall apparel and accessories feature intricate jewelling and sparkling galactic imagery. Even make-up has been given the ‘all that glitters’ treatment with gold leaf smudges appearing on the lips of models.
From Cavalier boots and fringed bags to the enduring popularity of the humble choker, Rebecca McLaughlin-Duane shortlists what’s hot-to-trot for autumn.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello made a sure-footed start to Paris Fashion Week for Saint Laurent with an alfresco show. Sparkling as the drizzle came down were rhinestones on boxy fall shifts and sequin trims and ruffles on cocktail dresses of a 1980s vein. Fun and flirty, the show was legs eleven heaven and a top seasonal splurge at the maison would be Vaccarello’s leather micro-mini dresses in caramel, classic black or electric blue patent. Meanwhile accessories to covet include shearling-lined shrugs and slouched knee-length boots.
Lanvin
Creative director Bouchra Jarrar came up trumps for Lanvin with her second show for the house. The collection was balanced and consistent in its romantic theme with ethereal, fluid dresses shown alongside coquettishly frilled lace shirts.
Fall pieces were highly wearable and didn’t stray far from in shades of charcoal, cream, blush and black — with monochrome knits lifted with gold. Standout styling came courtesy of python skin belts, postage-stamp size bags and statement feather neckpieces.
Chloe
It was with a fond farewell that Clare Waight Keller sent her final collection for Chloe down the ramp at PFW.
Pretty pelts, belted at the waist, were fit for a princess, contrasting with billowing plaid overcoats and fur bombers.
Loyal to the codes of the house, girlie bohemian shifts featured conversational prints overlaid on mint green and baby blue. While nods to the 1970s and The Beatles film Yellow Submarine included pinafore dresses and “psychedelic” star detailing.
Interspersed with softly structured trousers were boxy caped dresses and suit separates — most successfully in rich peacock blue.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing let the rock and roll cat out of the bag at Balmain’s show. In a vast and detailed collection, tiger prints adorned zip-backed suede sheath dresses and glinting lion heads were pictorial tropes on lame gowns. To the beat of Nirvana’s Smells Like Teen Spirit, models stomped the runway in morning coats and evening dresses fashioned from alligator skin. Rousteing’s calling card of heavily beaded shimmering mini dresses and angular jackets were also in abundance. Corsets were cropped, suede pants were skintight and skirts were shredded in a myriad of fabrics from tweed to soft yarns. Styling played out in skinny chokers, obi belts and gold lacquer pendants.
Christian Dior
All eyes were on Maria Grazia Chiuri in Paris as she sent her second ready-to-wear collection as Dior’s first female creative director before clients and press.
An army of beret clad beauties strode out in utilitarian denim, powder blue jumpsuits, tonal indigo check trenches and ink-hued wide-leg pants. The theme was one of female empowerment with a T-shirt emblazoned with the slogan “We Should All be Feminists”.
There were pleasingly modern takes on Dior’s Bar jacket — including a hooded version. Dresses of tulle and nylon were pleated and ruffled, contrasting with velvet gowns sprinkled with stars and planetary scenes.
The lasting impression, however, was Chiuri’s exploration of one of Christian Dior’s most trusted palettes.
“Among all the colours, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black,” he famously said.
