Giving the burqa a chic twist
Name: Abeer Mohammed
Brand: Founder of Burqa Abori
Debut: The Garden, October 4 to 6
I snapped a picture of you as a FFWD guest last season, wearing a distinctive butterfly burqa. Now you’re exhibiting - how did that come about?
Designers such as Furne One spotted me, the same way you did, and asked the same questions – who designed your burqa? He really motivated me, and others like him said they’d like to work with me in the future and encouraged me to get involved with Fashion Forward. So, it really opened doors for me, walking around in that burqa.
How did you get started?
I started the business about a year ago, but I’ve been designing since I was a child. My dad is Emirati and my Mum is Canadian, and as a child I saw the burqa as the equivalent to a mask – I couldn’t see the difference. So I’d play with it and accessorise it. People didn’t have a problem with it when I was a child as I was just playing. Now, as an adult, some don’t comprehend it and think I shouldn’t be tampering with tradition.
What kind of comments have you received?
“Don’t touch it, don’t play with it. It’s a traditional thing.” But I always tell them, “You don’t see girls my age wearing it, just the older generation. I’m trying to revive it and make it fashionable.”
Is there any evidence of it making a comeback?
Yes, many people are already wearing my burqas and printing my designs on T-shirts.
What does your father make of your business?
He doesn’t really take it seriously, he thinks it’s something of a hobby really, and not a viable business. However, he’s been very supportive financially.
Do you wear one all the time?
No, just at special events and fashion shows, and also when I was in Canada I used to wear it a lot, more than when I was in the UAE. I felt it would open conversations about my culture and traditions. It helped me enlighten and teach people where I’m from.
Is it fair to say there are many misconceptions about the burqa?
Exactly. People think it’s a religious thing but it actually has nothing to do with Islam. In French parts of Canada, many are against the burqa and in France they have very strong views about it. So I’m trying to change the idea that the burqa is oppressing women in any way. We choose to wear the burqa – in the past it was a sign that a girl had become a woman and they’d wear it all day. It was a very traditional and important part of our culture.
How do you define the burqa?
I’m trying to make it a fashion accessory. I don’t expect only Emirati girls to wear it either. I have non-Arab customers already, so I’m hoping it will enter the fashion industry.
How much are you selling your pieces for?
They start from Dh300 and the sky’s the limit. All the pieces are handmade, and some more avant-garde. Some have jewels, so that affects the price.
What is the base material of the burqas? Can they be heavy or uncomfortable to wear after long periods?
Some are made from plaster, plastic, cement, even glass. Then they are decorated with cotton, velvet, feathers, anything goes. And they are very light – you could wear them all day. The difference is that in the old days women used to wear a burqa for two weeks and throw it away, whereas I’m trying to create ones you can keep for 10 years. I want them to be pieces of art that you don’t have to wear all day, every day, but you could if you wanted to.
• Visit www.burqaabori.com
A mélange of East and West
Name: Farha S
Brand: Creative Director, Ceremony
Runway debut: Oct 6, 21.30pm, Madinat Jumeirah
You launched your label in 2012. Why show at FFWD now?
Because I thought my brand had reached a maturity level that would allow me to participate in such a great platform. I’ve been monitoring FFWD for the past few years and seen a lot of progress. The team is very professional and the designers who have taken part in previous seasons have really developed and taken their brands to the next level. And to be honest, I started designing and customising clothes at a very early age and my inspirations have been many and varied, but in particular, my mother and Vincent Van Gogh. I have a strong artistic side and I believe that comes out in the garments.
What do you hope to get out of FFWD?
Currently we’re known in Europe, the Middle East and Africa, and I feel that FFWD has great international exposure. So my aim is to get more exposure in new markets and attract new clients.
What will you be sending down the catwalk?
A ready-to-wear collection of 30 pieces, which are all very modern and chic. It’s a label for a woman who has an elegant, classic taste. At the same time, the pieces are simple and practical. The inspiration behind the collection was the natural essence of the UAE. You’ll see a lot of prints on silk with palm-tree motifs. Nude colours will represent dunes, and sheer, flowy fabrics represent my culture. I will have both short and long cocktail dresses – the cuts and lines of which are not eastern, although the inspiration was.
Which show are you keen to catch?
I really look up to Furne One of Amato. He’s such a creative designer and always impresses with his collections.
Are you planning to walk the catwalk like Furne does in his finale show?
[Laughs] Me? No, I’m just going to take a very quick bow.
• Visit www.ceremony.ae
• FFWD runs from Saturday to Monday. For details visit www.fashionforward.ae
rduane@thenational.ae
