Complex appeal

The narrow lanes and hidden gardens of Sana'a are a delight. A delicious, tilting, cake-like city.

Tall, narrow houses decorated with mounds of whitewashed gypsum and tiny, stained-glass windows give Sana'a a distinctive look.

Some believe Sana'a was founded by Shem, the son of Noah. It dates back at least to the Sabaean dynasty of the sixth century BC, making it one of the world's oldest inhabited cities. The old city of Sana'a is surrounded by high clay walls and contains thousands of ancient houses and more than 100 mosques; it was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1986. At an elevation of over 2,000 metres, the Yemeni capital enjoys a much more bearable temperature year-round than most other cities on the Arabian Peninsula.

Walking around the old streets of Sana'a is a delight, it's a delicious, tilting, cake-like city, with tall, narrow, leaning houses of red brick, decorated with mounds of whitewashed gypsum and tiny, stained-glass windows. Homes reach four or five stories high - higher than average for an Arabic city - with vertiginous rooftop views of the streets below. The old city is extensive and labyrinthine, making maps difficult to follow: your best bet is to take a deep breath and start wandering.

The narrow lanes of Sana'a give way to numerous souqs, hammams and hidden vegetable gardens, and locals are conservative but friendly (a few words of Arabic help). The biggest souq is the Souq al Milh, which features a khat market, spice souq, carpenter's and blacksmith's quarters and ancient oil presses powered by camels. The city has an almost Venetian feel and is particularly magical when lit up at night. Travellers should keep an eye on local developments before visiting Yemen, but the country is safer than most travel advisories make out and the small number of tourists means that travel there is virtually hassle-free. Many choose to study Arabic in Sana'a. Visitors should also consider reading Tim Mackintosh-Smith's Yemen: Travels in Dictionary Land.

Yemenia Yemen Airways (02 6324 005, @email:www.yemenia.com) flies twice a week from Abu Dhabi to Sana'a via Aden, with return flights from Dh1,700 including tax. Emirates (@email:www.emirates.com) operates six weekly direct flights from Dubai, returns from Dh1,660 including taxes.

Budget

The Dawood Hotel (@email:[e-mail]) is simple (some rooms have matresses on the floor) but clean and quite charming, with a generous application of antiques and incense and a flowery terrace downstairs. Doubles from Dh100 per night including breakfast.

Mid-range

The Burj Al Salam (@email:www.burjalsalam.com) is probably the nicest place to stay in the old city: a converted seven-storey tower in the centre of the old town, it has 47 Arabian Nights-style rooms furnished with antique furniture, metal lanterns, stone floors and large windows. There are two lovely suites at the top; downstairs is a spacious, atmospheric lounge with free wireless internet. There are two outdoor terraces with restaurants and a glorious enclosed Mafraj on the roof. Doubles from Dh250 per night including breakfast.

Luxury

Those wanting real luxury will have to stay outside of the old city. The 400-room Movenpick (@email:www.moevenpick-hotels.com) towers on a hillside in the modern city, offering good views, large, quiet rooms and an indoor swimming pool. Doubles from Dh500 per night.

The restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the Burj Al Salam hotel is incredibly relaxing and has the most spectacular views over the old city. An early evening shisha or coffee, with the call to prayer resounding on all sides, is particularly memorable. The Italian menu has good, basic pasta and fish; there is also a daily specials menu. Mains from Dh30. Mabrook at Bab Shouab (221 708) serves sizzling wooden plates of Salta, a thick, traditional stew with meatballs, potatoes and fenugreek, served with bread and washed down with a bowl of aromatic veal soup. Mains from Dh10.

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