How Jazzablanca Festival signals the return of cultural life in Casablanca

It is the first major music event to take place in the Moroccan city since Covid-19 restrictions were eased

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  Gilberto Gil headlined the second night of the Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  The crowd featured many compatriots from Brazil. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Gil performed a set spanning his six decade career. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Gilberto Gil, performing at Jazzablanca. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Egyptian-Belgian singer Natacha Atlas was one of the acts performing at Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Sife El Amine

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  She played songs from latest album 'Strange Days'. Courtesy: Jazzablanca Festival

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  Natacha Atlas was in fine form throughout the hour long set. Courtesy: Jazzablanca Festival

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  Lebanese-French trumpeter and composer Ibrahim Maalouf headlines the first night of the 2022 Jazzablanca Festival in Casablanca, Morocco. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Ethiopian jazz musician and arranger Mulatu Astatke perfoms on the Scene 21 stage at Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Salima Moumni

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  Bab L' Bluz bring their psychedelic rock take on Gnawa music – Moroccan and West African Islamic songs and rhythm – at the Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Salima Moumni

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  Mulatu Astatke is renowned as the father of the Ethio-Jazz genre. Photo: Salima Moumni

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  Moktar Gania and Gnawa Soul performing at Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Mohamed Filali Anssari

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  Morocco's Saad Tiouly headlined the Scene BMCI stage on day one of the 2022 Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Mohamed Filali Anssari

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  About 5,000 people attended the first day of the 2022 Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Mohamed Filali Anssari

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  The festival took place at new venue, the sprawling Anfa Park. Photo: Mohamed Filali Anssari

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  Ibrahim Maalouf and his band performing at the Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  The three-day festival features artists performing jazz, soul, rock and Moroccan Gnawa music. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Ibrahim Maalouf performed songs from his new album 'Queen of Sheba', a collaboration with Beninese singer-songwriter Angelique Kidjo. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  French trumpeter Erik Truffaz performs with Moroccan Gnawa musician Hamid El Kasri, on the Jazzablanca main stage. Photo: Sife Elamine

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  Jazzablanca launched as a small boutique event in 2006. Photo: Sife Elamine

It's 45 minutes until the gates open at the Jazzablanca Festival and founder Moulay Alami is feeling the heat — in more ways than one.

Since its launch in 2006, the annual event in Casablanca has evolved into an occasion with a perennial, almost cult-like following. In 2022, it finds itself as the poster child for the city's reopening after most Covid-19 safety restrictions in Morocco were lifted.

On Friday afternoon, Alami paces around the festival’s new site, the sprawling Anfa Park near the coast, as he conducts final checks on the security gates, sponsorship booths and the various “villages", where an estimated 17,000 people will watch performances, relax and eat from the international food stands over the next three days.

“We have done this so many times, but this year feels important,” he tells The National. “The fact we are able to stand here and open the gates is, in its own way, a miracle.”

Jazzablanca Festival features multiple stages and 'villages' dedicated to food and health and wellness. Photo: Sife El Amine

Alami reveals the festival only received government authorisation to run in late April.

Hoping the gradual decrease in Covid-19 infection rates would result in the lifting of restrictions, Alami and his team had been plotting the return of the festival since the start of the year.

However, with the green light arriving just weeks before the proposed date, the remaining period was spent in a frenzied dash to secure the artist line-up and sponsors.

“The support we received from everyone was overwhelming,” he says.

“There was definitely this sense and that we need to work together and get back to normal because for the last two years the events sector in Casablanca, and really most of Morocco, has been non-existent.

“So everyone wanted to help because we are the first major festival to come back to the city.”

Ethiopian musician Mulatu Astatke performing at Jazzablanca Festival. Photo: Sife El Amine

That good will was also extended from the artists.

Jazzablanca has secured an impressive and eclectic line-up for revellers with US blues singer Ben Harper, Lebanese-French trumpeter and composer Ibrahim Maalouf and Ethiopian jazz pioneer Mulatu Astatke the major headliners.

"It did feel like everything was going our way because many of the artists were understanding," he says.

"They of course knew the reputation we have built over the years and many were happy to return to Casablanca.

They know the crowds here are beautiful and supportive.”

A musical reunion

In addition to international acts on stage, Jazzablanca also serves as a rallying point for the city’s musicians, many of whom suffered great financial difficulties due to the shuttering of venues since the onset of the pandemic.

"To suddenly stop doing what you only know and love for two years is extremely hard and you can’t just bounce back,” says singer-songwriter Jihane Bougrine.

“I have been fortunate in that I was using the time away to record new songs and release music videos, but others have left music all together to find other jobs to support them.”

Osman Messawi was contemplating a similar move.

Born and raised in Casablanca, the pianist was considering retiring from life as a working musician, to become an antiques collector.

“You can find many things in the markets across Morocco, such as historic bank notes and books, which you can sell on to collectors or museums,” he says.

“Now music venues are back; I am a little nervous about stepping back into it fully.

“One thing I learned from this big mess is that I will always have a plan B, or a second source of income. I think many musicians learned that from this experience.”

Appreciating what we have

Now live music has returned, it's time to appreciate it says singer-songwriter Jihane Bougrine. Photo: Mohamed Filali Anssari

Jazzablanca’s return also functions as a psychological boost for the city’s residents.

Bougrine says the cultural chill caused by the pandemic affected the character of the city.

"Casablanca is a place rich in history and culture with many local and international festivals about many kinds of arts," she says.

“The people and city really feed off that energy and that's what gives Casablanca its vibe.

“Perhaps, we all needed the reminder these things are built on the back of artists and festival organisers.

“Now that we can enjoy these things again, I hope we don't take it for granted and show greater support.”