Kohl in India

The National
  • Organic kohl has a better shelf-life than chemical kohl, which is banned in the US as it's deemed bad for people's health. All photos by Sanket Jain for The National
    Organic kohl has a better shelf-life than chemical kohl, which is banned in the US as it's deemed bad for people's health. All photos by Sanket Jain for The National
  • Kusum Gaikwad hand-picking the mhaka (eclipta prostrata) leaves used to make organic kohl.
    Kusum Gaikwad hand-picking the mhaka (eclipta prostrata) leaves used to make organic kohl.
  • In India, even young children wear kohl. There’s a superstitious belief that wearing kohl wards off the evil eye. In this photo, Kusum is applying kohl to her grandson, Yash, 5.
    In India, even young children wear kohl. There’s a superstitious belief that wearing kohl wards off the evil eye. In this photo, Kusum is applying kohl to her grandson, Yash, 5.
  • In order to hand-make organic kohl Kusum Gaikwad's way, the leaves are cleaned thoroughly with water.
    In order to hand-make organic kohl Kusum Gaikwad's way, the leaves are cleaned thoroughly with water.
  • The mhaka leaves are squeezed several times to extract the greenish-black liquid.
    The mhaka leaves are squeezed several times to extract the greenish-black liquid.
  • To ease the process of squeezing, the leaves are wrapped in a cotton cloth.
    To ease the process of squeezing, the leaves are wrapped in a cotton cloth.
  • The liquid is then carefully placed at the inverted side of a concave plate to ensure it doesn’t flow away.
    The liquid is then carefully placed at the inverted side of a concave plate to ensure it doesn’t flow away.
  • Now, it is left to dry for around four to five hours in the field.
    Now, it is left to dry for around four to five hours in the field.
  • Three steel bowls are arranged in a triangular form that acts as a stand for this plate.
    Three steel bowls are arranged in a triangular form that acts as a stand for this plate.
  • A single clay lamp is used to heat the dried liquid on the plate. This lamp burns overnight, and what accumulates on the surface is kohl.
    A single clay lamp is used to heat the dried liquid on the plate. This lamp burns overnight, and what accumulates on the surface is kohl.
  • Now, the accumulated kohl is manually scraped off.
    Now, the accumulated kohl is manually scraped off.
  • A few drops of either coconut or castor oil are added to the kohl.
    A few drops of either coconut or castor oil are added to the kohl.
  • Ashwini Gaikwad, 35, learned the art of hand-making kohl from her mother-in-law, Kusum.
    Ashwini Gaikwad, 35, learned the art of hand-making kohl from her mother-in-law, Kusum.