Tripoli's abandoned and 'dystopian' exhibition centre is slowly coming back to life


Saeed Saeed
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On the outskirts of the Lebanese city of Tripoli lies a sprawling site that speaks of the country's promise and tragedy.

At 10 hectares, the Rashid Karameh International Exhibition Centre is one of the largest sites of its kind in the world.

Under the eye of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, a state-of-the-art complex was planned, with 15 structures including an exhibition hall, a national pavilion and an outdoor concert stage.

Construction, by local companies, began in 1964, only for it to be abandoned 10 years later with the outbreak of civil war in Lebanon.

The grounds, with the half-finished amphitheatre and hall, went on to become a destination for field trips for students as a celebrated example of Modernist architecture in the Middle East.

Nicolas Fayad and Charles Kettaneh were regular visitors as American University of Beirut architecture students.

Those early expeditions eventually laid the seeds for their celebrated rehabilitation of the Niemeyer Guest House, which won the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture.

Lebanese architects Nicolas Fayyed and Charles Kettaneh talking to 'The National' about their award winning project. Photo: Christopher Wilton-Steer
Lebanese architects Nicolas Fayyed and Charles Kettaneh talking to 'The National' about their award winning project. Photo: Christopher Wilton-Steer

"A good word to describe the site is dystopian. It was this space that has been left empty and untouched since the war," Kettaneh tells The National from the Aga Khan's award ceremony in Muscat, Oman.

"We would visit the grounds from as far back as 20 years ago and we found it beautiful and inspiring because it was a place for exploration."

While activity on the site was sporadic — although between 1995 and 1998 it did host several regional exhibitions — its stature as one of Niemeyer's greatest unrealised designs grew and in 2018 was included on Unesco’s World Heritage Tentative List.

By this time Kettaneh and Fayad had founded Beirut's East Architecture Studio, a practice renowned for their innovative and contemporary designs, including urban homes and office spaces.

In 2017, a request for proposal to renovate the guest house went out from Expertise France — a development agency run under the auspices of the French government — and the Association of Lebanese Industrialists. The pair jumped at the chance to contribute to a site that had inspired them since childhood.

"The client wanted to repurpose the guest house and make it a place to bring in artisans from the region to work on prototypes and network with other designers from Tripoli, Beirut and beyond so they can exchange ideas and techniques," Kettaneh says.

The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon has been named one of the six winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon has been named one of the six winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Fayad says the project was immediately beset with challenges.

"The first priority was to save the building because it was structurally starting to decay due to weathering," he says.

"The second aspect we had to reconcile was how to actually intervene on a structure that was never completed. We had to understand how Niemeyer would have wanted it and that's where all the six months of research came into play.”

Informed by Niemeyer's established techniques, the pair set to work by adding flexible, transparent steel-and-glass partitions to complement the ceiling structure and conceal certain structural elements behind locally sourced plywood panelling.

Electro-mechanical features were included to increase ventilation and the amount of natural light.

The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
The Niemeyer guest house in Tripoli, Lebanon. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Funded for an undisclosed sum by the European Union, the six-month project was completed by the end of 2018 and currently acts as the base of the Tripoli carpentry association, Minjara.

"That has been really beautiful to see," Kettaneh says.

"It is a platform where designers create products that [are exhibited] around the world such as in Paris and Belgium and sell online."

The Aga Khan Architecture Award jury also hailed the project's restorative powers.

The judges described the refurbished guesthouse as “an inspiring tale of architecture's capacity for repair, at a time of dizzying, entangled crisis around the world, and in Lebanon in particular".

Renovation of the Niemeyer guest house. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture
Renovation of the Niemeyer guest house. Photo: Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Although it is fully functioning, Kettaneh describes the guest house as unfinished business.

"The place was initially designed by Niemeyer to have 14 rooms for accommodation, but unfortunately that was not part of our renovation scope because of the budget," he says.

"We do hope that it will be part of the next phase for the development because it’s not only important for us, as architects, to see the building fully completed, but it also benefits the space in terms of how it can be used.”

Fayad hopes the project and the award’s profile encourage other architects and benefactors to invest in rebuilding the fairgrounds.

"Times are very difficult now in Lebanon with economic meltdown and the Beirut port explosion, but we do hope this project can inspire others," he says.

"We do hope it is the beginning of other similar interventions at the fair because it remains historically untouched and it is so massive. There are so many opportunities and things to discover."

Scroll through the gallery below to see the winners of the 2022 Aga Khan Award for Architecture

5 of the most-popular Airbnb locations in Dubai

Bobby Grudziecki, chief operating officer of Frank Porter, identifies the five most popular areas in Dubai for those looking to make the most out of their properties and the rates owners can secure:

• Dubai Marina

The Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are popular locations, says Mr Grudziecki, due to their closeness to the beach, restaurants and hotels.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh482 to Dh739 
Two bedroom: Dh627 to Dh960 
Three bedroom: Dh721 to Dh1,104

• Downtown

Within walking distance of the Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and the famous fountains, this location combines business and leisure.  “Sure it’s for tourists,” says Mr Grudziecki. “Though Downtown [still caters to business people] because it’s close to Dubai International Financial Centre."

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh497 to Dh772
Two bedroom: Dh646 to Dh1,003
Three bedroom: Dh743 to Dh1,154

• City Walk

The rising star of the Dubai property market, this area is lined with pristine sidewalks, boutiques and cafes and close to the new entertainment venue Coca Cola Arena.  “Downtown and Marina are pretty much the same prices,” Mr Grudziecki says, “but City Walk is higher.”

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh524 to Dh809 
Two bedroom: Dh682 to Dh1,052 
Three bedroom: Dh784 to Dh1,210 

• Jumeirah Lake Towers

Dubai Marina’s little brother JLT resides on the other side of Sheikh Zayed road but is still close enough to beachside outlets and attractions. The big selling point for Airbnb renters, however, is that “it’s cheaper than Dubai Marina”, Mr Grudziecki says.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh422 to Dh629 
Two bedroom: Dh549 to Dh818 
Three bedroom: Dh631 to Dh941

• Palm Jumeirah

Palm Jumeirah's proximity to luxury resorts is attractive, especially for big families, says Mr Grudziecki, as Airbnb renters can secure competitive rates on one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations.

Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh503 to Dh770 
Two bedroom: Dh654 to Dh1,002 
Three bedroom: Dh752 to Dh1,152 

Who was Alfred Nobel?

The Nobel Prize was created by wealthy Swedish chemist and entrepreneur Alfred Nobel.

  • In his will he dictated that the bulk of his estate should be used to fund "prizes to those who, during the preceding year, have conferred the greatest benefit to humankind".
  • Nobel is best known as the inventor of dynamite, but also wrote poetry and drama and could speak Russian, French, English and German by the age of 17. The five original prize categories reflect the interests closest to his heart.
  • Nobel died in 1896 but it took until 1901, following a legal battle over his will, before the first prizes were awarded.
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5.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 2,200m, Winners: Sharkh, Pat Cosgrave, Helal Al Alawi

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7.30pm: Al Ruwais – Group 3 (PA) Dh300,000 (T) 1,200m, Winner: AF Alwajel, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel

8pm: Maiden (TB) Dh80,000 (T) 1,400m, Winner: Nibras Passion, Bernardo Pinheiro, Ismail Mohammed

Strait of Hormuz

Fujairah is a crucial hub for fuel storage and is just outside the Strait of Hormuz, a vital shipping route linking Middle East oil producers to markets in Asia, Europe, North America and beyond.

The strait is 33 km wide at its narrowest point, but the shipping lane is just three km wide in either direction. Almost a fifth of oil consumed across the world passes through the strait.

Iran has repeatedly threatened to close the strait, a move that would risk inviting geopolitical and economic turmoil.

Last month, Iran issued a new warning that it would block the strait, if it was prevented from using the waterway following a US decision to end exemptions from sanctions for major Iranian oil importers.

Updated: November 04, 2022, 6:02 PM