I am a Dubai old-timer, apparently. Having lived in Dubai for almost 15 years, I am officially old school, and have borne witness to some pretty seismic changes.
I saw Burj Khalifa being built and watched the new Metro snake its concrete path across the city. I looked on as The Dubai Mall was under construction, and stood as the Hard Rock Cafe was torn down. I was here before Expo 2020 Dubai was a twinkle in Sheikh Mohammed's eye.
Giving the length of my stay, perhaps it's only fitting that I also happen to live in one of Dubai's few remaining original compounds.
Like a living slice of history — so my Emirati friends tell me — the compound is a flashback to what life once was in this now busy, modern city.
Situated on the arterial Sheikh Zayed Road, the compound was built 40 to 45 years ago — accounts vary — and was created either for the workers on the early oil rigs, or for those who built the very road it now sits on. Again, no one seems to have a concrete answer.
Comprised of little cottages set among mature trees, it became our sanctuary during the pandemic, because we were effectively sealed off from everyone else. We were able to carry on with a relatively normal life even during the lockdown. Occasionally a police car would arrive to ensure we were social distanced, circling our no-through-roads. When asked for the reason of the visit, police would nod to the apartment blocks that surround us. Stranded in studios, many seemingly without windows that open, the sight of us walking our dogs must have been too much for the occupants to bear. I can’t say I blame them.
Internet cables were laid only last year and with our own shop and cafe at the entrance gate, we feel little need to stray beyond the walls. As you can imagine, the insular life we have led attracts a certain type of arty, free-spirited soul.
Like Dubai of old, many of us feel no need to lock our doors (owning dogs certainly helps) and are friends with our neighbours (imagine that).
There is a flipside to our sleepy existence, however. While we are shielded from the noise of the traffic by a high wall, and are shaded from the sun by innumerable trees, many people have no idea we even exist. Stepping out of the gates, we are usually greeted by passersby with something akin to surprise.
Delivery apps such as Careem, Deliveroo and sometimes even InstaShop are blissfully unaware of us. Trying to make any kind of booking is met with a cheerful assertion that my address offers "no search result", technology insisting instead I live at the hotel next door.
The simple act of ordering food, such a staple of modern life, becomes a mission, trying various variations of my address to see what works, and when it does, it's frequently followed by a call from a nonplussed driver on the wrong side of a two-metre-tall perimeter fence.
For those who do find their way in, however, it is a delight to see the look of astonishment on their face, muttering "I had no idea this even existed" as they peer around our verdant, charming little world.
In an age when everyone is connected, and every detail is shared with the internet, sometimes being unknown has its merits — unless you want a shawarma on a Friday night.
Copa del Rey
Semi-final, first leg
Barcelona 1 (Malcom 57')
Real Madrid (Vazquez 6')
Second leg, February 27
The full list of 2020 Brit Award nominees (winners in bold):
British group
Coldplay
Foals
Bring me the Horizon
D-Block Europe
Bastille
British Female
Mabel
Freya Ridings
FKA Twigs
Charli xcx
Mahalia
British male
Harry Styles
Lewis Capaldi
Dave
Michael Kiwanuka
Stormzy
Best new artist
Aitch
Lewis Capaldi
Dave
Mabel
Sam Fender
Best song
Ed Sheeran and Justin Bieber - I Don’t Care
Mabel - Don’t Call Me Up
Calvin Harrison and Rag’n’Bone Man - Giant
Dave - Location
Mark Ronson feat. Miley Cyrus - Nothing Breaks Like A Heart
AJ Tracey - Ladbroke Grove
Lewis Capaldi - Someone you Loved
Tom Walker - Just You and I
Sam Smith and Normani - Dancing with a Stranger
Stormzy - Vossi Bop
International female
Ariana Grande
Billie Eilish
Camila Cabello
Lana Del Rey
Lizzo
International male
Bruce Springsteen
Burna Boy
Tyler, The Creator
Dermot Kennedy
Post Malone
Best album
Stormzy - Heavy is the Head
Michael Kiwanuka - Kiwanuka
Lewis Capaldi - Divinely Uninspired to a Hellish Extent
Dave - Psychodrama
Harry Styles - Fine Line
Rising star
Celeste
Joy Crookes
beabadoobee
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
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Green ambitions
- Trees: 1,500 to be planted, replacing 300 felled ones, with veteran oaks protected
- Lake: Brown's centrepiece to be cleaned of silt that makes it as shallow as 2.5cm
- Biodiversity: Bat cave to be added and habitats designed for kingfishers and little grebes
- Flood risk: Longer grass, deeper lake, restored ponds and absorbent paths all meant to siphon off water
Profile of Tarabut Gateway
Founder: Abdulla Almoayed
Based: UAE
Founded: 2017
Number of employees: 35
Sector: FinTech
Raised: $13 million
Backers: Berlin-based venture capital company Target Global, Kingsway, CE Ventures, Entrée Capital, Zamil Investment Group, Global Ventures, Almoayed Technologies and Mad’a Investment.
In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
- Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000
- Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000
- Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000
- Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000
- HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000
- Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000
- Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000
- Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000
- Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000
- Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000
- Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000
- Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
- Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
- Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
RESULTS
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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On the menu
First course
▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water
▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle
Second course
▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo
▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa
Third course
▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro
▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis
Dessert
▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate
▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Like a Fading Shadow
Antonio Muñoz Molina
Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez
Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)
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