Life in one of Dubai's oldest compounds means a certain amount of anonymity


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I am a Dubai old-timer, apparently. Having lived in Dubai for almost 15 years, I am officially old school, and have borne witness to some pretty seismic changes.

I saw Burj Khalifa being built and watched the new Metro snake its concrete path across the city. I looked on as The Dubai Mall was under construction, and stood as the Hard Rock Cafe was torn down. I was here before Expo 2020 Dubai was a twinkle in Sheikh Mohammed's eye.

Desert Springs Village in Barsha Heights is surrounded by tall buildings. Pawan Singh / The National
Desert Springs Village in Barsha Heights is surrounded by tall buildings. Pawan Singh / The National

Giving the length of my stay, perhaps it's only fitting that I also happen to live in one of Dubai's few remaining original compounds.

Like a living slice of history — so my Emirati friends tell me — the compound is a flashback to what life once was in this now busy, modern city.

Situated on the arterial Sheikh Zayed Road, the compound was built 40 to 45 years ago — accounts vary — and was created either for the workers on the early oil rigs, or for those who built the very road it now sits on. Again, no one seems to have a concrete answer.

Comprised of little cottages set among mature trees, it became our sanctuary during the pandemic, because we were effectively sealed off from everyone else. We were able to carry on with a relatively normal life even during the lockdown. Occasionally a police car would arrive to ensure we were social distanced, circling our no-through-roads. When asked for the reason of the visit, police would nod to the apartment blocks that surround us. Stranded in studios, many seemingly without windows that open, the sight of us walking our dogs must have been too much for the occupants to bear. I can’t say I blame them.

The garden of one of the villas in Desert Springs Village. Pawan Singh / The National
The garden of one of the villas in Desert Springs Village. Pawan Singh / The National

Internet cables were laid only last year and with our own shop and cafe at the entrance gate, we feel little need to stray beyond the walls. As you can imagine, the insular life we have led attracts a certain type of arty, free-spirited soul.

Like Dubai of old, many of us feel no need to lock our doors (owning dogs certainly helps) and are friends with our neighbours (imagine that).

There is a flipside to our sleepy existence, however. While we are shielded from the noise of the traffic by a high wall, and are shaded from the sun by innumerable trees, many people have no idea we even exist. Stepping out of the gates, we are usually greeted by passersby with something akin to surprise.

Delivery apps such as Careem, Deliveroo and sometimes even InstaShop are blissfully unaware of us. Trying to make any kind of booking is met with a cheerful assertion that my address offers "no search result", technology insisting instead I live at the hotel next door.

A gardener waters plants in a lush, verdant yard in Desert Springs Village. Sarah Dea / The National
A gardener waters plants in a lush, verdant yard in Desert Springs Village. Sarah Dea / The National

The simple act of ordering food, such a staple of modern life, becomes a mission, trying various variations of my address to see what works, and when it does, it's frequently followed by a call from a nonplussed driver on the wrong side of a two-metre-tall perimeter fence.

For those who do find their way in, however, it is a delight to see the look of astonishment on their face, muttering "I had no idea this even existed" as they peer around our verdant, charming little world.

In an age when everyone is connected, and every detail is shared with the internet, sometimes being unknown has its merits — unless you want a shawarma on a Friday night.

Copa del Rey

Semi-final, first leg

Barcelona 1 (Malcom 57')
Real Madrid (Vazquez 6')

Second leg, February 27

The full list of 2020 Brit Award nominees (winners in bold):

British group

Coldplay

Foals

Bring me the Horizon

D-Block Europe

Bastille

British Female

Mabel

Freya Ridings

FKA Twigs

Charli xcx

Mahalia​

British male

Harry Styles

Lewis Capaldi

Dave

Michael Kiwanuka

Stormzy​

Best new artist

Aitch

Lewis Capaldi

Dave

Mabel

Sam Fender

Best song

Ed Sheeran and Justin Bieber - I Don’t Care

Mabel - Don’t Call Me Up

Calvin Harrison and Rag’n’Bone Man - Giant

Dave - Location

Mark Ronson feat. Miley Cyrus - Nothing Breaks Like A Heart

AJ Tracey - Ladbroke Grove

Lewis Capaldi - Someone you Loved

Tom Walker - Just You and I

Sam Smith and Normani - Dancing with a Stranger

Stormzy - Vossi Bop

International female

Ariana Grande

Billie Eilish

Camila Cabello

Lana Del Rey

Lizzo

International male

Bruce Springsteen

Burna Boy

Tyler, The Creator

Dermot Kennedy

Post Malone

Best album

Stormzy - Heavy is the Head

Michael Kiwanuka - Kiwanuka

Lewis Capaldi - Divinely Uninspired to a Hellish Extent

Dave - Psychodrama

Harry Styles - Fine Line

Rising star

Celeste

Joy Crookes

beabadoobee

Living in...

This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.

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Green ambitions
  • Trees: 1,500 to be planted, replacing 300 felled ones, with veteran oaks protected
  • Lake: Brown's centrepiece to be cleaned of silt that makes it as shallow as 2.5cm
  • Biodiversity: Bat cave to be added and habitats designed for kingfishers and little grebes
  • Flood risk: Longer grass, deeper lake, restored ponds and absorbent paths all meant to siphon off water 
Profile of Tarabut Gateway

Founder: Abdulla Almoayed

Based: UAE

Founded: 2017

Number of employees: 35

Sector: FinTech

Raised: $13 million

Backers: Berlin-based venture capital company Target Global, Kingsway, CE Ventures, Entrée Capital, Zamil Investment Group, Global Ventures, Almoayed Technologies and Mad’a Investment.

In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
  • Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000 
  • Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000 
  • HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000 
  • Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000 
  • Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000 
  • Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000 
  • Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000 
  • Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
  • Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
  • Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
RESULTS
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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On the menu

First course

▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water  

▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle

Second course

▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo

▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa

Third course

▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro

▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis

Dessert

▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate

▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
 

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Like a Fading Shadow

Antonio Muñoz Molina

Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez

Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)

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Updated: May 20, 2022, 6:02 PM