Next week, the abandoned pearling village of Jazirat Al Hamra will come back to life.
The coastal settlement in Ras Al Khaimah is the region's best example of a pre-oil village, displaying three distinct types of early- and mid-20th century Gulf architecture. It has remained almost unchanged since inhabitants left in 1968.
Once a year, former residents return to honour the past by hosting an open party. The annual reunion parties started in 2012 and have grown year by year.
This time, palm-frond arish houses are being reconstructed to fill the market, lights have been strung from buildings and 1,000 flagpoles have been raised. Local companies and former residents have donated time, money and manpower.
Preparations take place at home, too. People like Obaid Rashid, a baker's son, are stocking their cupboards and preparing family recipes for the party. Women are getting out their gold.
"It will be a party like they had in the old days," says Mohammed Rashed Al Zaabi, 37, one of the organisers. "We want to make everything as it was before. We're expecting about 1,500 people."
This year's reunion will tie in with National Day celebrations, which typically last a full week in the Northern Emirates. Communities agree to celebrate on different days so that events do not overlap, but organisers hope the village is remembered year round.
It's often on the quietest days that its past is most easily imagined. A walk through its dusty streets is a glimpse of the Gulf before oil was discovered. Pearl divers, the famed and the destitute, once lived in its homes. Indian Ocean sea captains traded and bartered in its markets. Women strode through its twisting alleyways, carrying water, wood and news.
After its abandonment in 1968, the village stood almost untouched for decades. Other old Gulf towns grew up with their cities and were renewed, rebuilt and replaced. Al Hamra was overlooked and unchanged.
Little by little, old homes were converted into crowded living spaces for labourers or have simply crumbled with the passage of time. Others were radically changed for movie sets or defaced by vandals and treasure hunters.
Al Hamra is no longer an island. Land has been filled in on all sides and it now sits near an industrial zone between a port, a water park, a gated community and a golf course.
During festivals, visitors may be lucky enough to hear first-hand tales of village life. Most days, however, the village stands empty and information on its history is scarce. The haunting architecture of the village has made it popular with Gulf filmmakers and it has served as the backdrop for love stories, hip-hop videos and for documentary filmmakers in search of the supernatural beings djinn. English-speaking audiences were introduced to the village last year with the feature-length movie Djinn, directed by Poltergeist's Tobe Hooper and produced by Image Nation, part of Abu Dhabi Media, which also owns The National.
Despite its derelict appearance, the families of Al Hamra still own their properties and are keen to protect and preserve the village. A question mark hangs over the fate of the village and the best way to protect it. The National has documented the debate by artists, scholars, governments and families on Al Hamra's development. Now, we will guide you through the village with the memories of those who once lived there.
Our interactive map takes you on a walk through the market and into the past: watch a video of a pearler remembering dives to the sea floor, listen to a fisherman's shanties or peek inside the town's grocery courtyard house.
In addition to interviews with the elders, our tour draws on the 2010 proposal for the village by Zayed University students. The research was led by Dr Ronald Hawker, a former associate professor of art and design at Zayed University who is now associate chair for the School of Critical and Creative Studies at the Alberta College of Art and Design.
Not long ago, Jazirat Al Hamra was a renowned pearling centre. Men travelled from surrounding communities to join its pearling fleets before the industry collapsed after the Japanese started to mass-produce cultured pearl almost a century ago.
Jazirat Al Hamra, the red island, was named for the sand it was built on. Most inhabitants were from the Zaabi tribe, but not exclusively. As elsewhere in the Gulf, many prominent citizens were of Arab, Iranian, African and Baluchi descent.
Tight-knit communities, built around neighbourhoods known as fareej, meant that people were like kin, whether or not they were blood relatives. Al Hamra is structured around four such fareej: Garbhi, Miyan, Shimali and Sharqi.
Its strategic location towards the entrance of the Gulf made it a coastal town of great importance. As it attracted wealth, it also attracted foreign powers.
It's said that the Zaab defended the coast from the Portuguese and, later, the British. They fought side by side with the Qawasim tribe, whose family still rule Sharjah and Ras Al Khaimah to this day. The Zaab were known for strong assaults on British ships and suffered the consequences in 1809 and 1819 when the British attacked the Ras Al Khaimah coast, destroying dozens of ships and boats and crippling the economy.
But the village was rebuilt. By 1831, the British recorded a population of 4,100, with 20 pearling ships, 22 fishing ships and 12 bateel-trading ships.
At the turn of the 20th century, the British official John Gordon Lorimer recorded a population of about 500 households in his 1908 Gazetteer of the region. Almost all belonged to the Zaab, who at that time had a pearling fleet of about 25 ships. Another 150 Zaab families lived in Khor Kalba on the Indian Ocean.
Life was not only the sea. The people of Al Hamra were hadhr – coastal Bedouin. When men journeyed to the pearling beds in the southern Gulf during the summer, women led families inland to date gardens in Khatt at the Jiri Plain. It was a journey of more than 20 kilometres, as the crow flies.
When pearling collapsed, Al Hamra was supported by the Ruler's brother, Sheikh Mohammed bin Salim Al Qasimi, who invested in boatbuilding and agriculture tools for men and women.
Outside events changed Al Hamra a second time when wealth from the Gulf's oil revenue began to trickle in after the 1950s. Men left for years at a time as migrant workers in Gulf countries such as Kuwait, Bahrain and Saudi Arabia.
They returned with savings to marry and to start businesses once again. By 1968, the Zaab of Ras Al Khaimah numbered about 2,455.
At this time, people left to settle in Abu Dhabi, on the Batinah Coast in Oman and in other parts of Ras Al Khaimah.
They continue to return. On weekends, it's not unusual to see young people from Abu Dhabi driving through the village to revisit their old family homes. On weekdays, the village is regularly visited by families who live in new Ras Al Khaimah neighbourhoods. They come to remember the past and keep an eye on the village. "My ancestors are from here, and when I come here, I just relax," says Rashed.
We've interviewed five former residents, from Abu Dhabi to Ras Al Khaimah. Our guides are: Hamad Ismail, who lived here as a young child and was one of four people to revive interest in the village restoration; Sultan Mohammed Ibrahim Al Ramses Al Zaabi, a fisherman who lives in Abu Dhabi; Obaid Saeed Wasri Al Zaabi, a former pearl diver; Ahmed Youssuf Al Zaabi, a former pearl diver and farmer who lives in Ras Al Khaimah; and Sultan Mohammed Rashed Al Zaabi, who was born around 1934 and lives in Ras Al Khaimah.
Now, we invite you to explore the village through their stories.
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Gulf Men's League final
Dubai Hurricanes 24-12 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
EU's 20-point migration plan
1. Send EU border guards to Balkans
2. €40 million for training and surveillance
3. Review EU border protection
4. Reward countries that fund Balkans
5. Help Balkans improve asylum system
6. Improve migrant reception facilities
7. Close gaps in EU registration system
8. Run pilots of faster asylum system
9. Improve relocation of migrants within EU
10. Bolster migration unit in Greece
11. Tackle smuggling at Serbia/Hungary border
12. Implement €30 million anti-smuggling plan
13. Sanctions on transport linked to smuggling
14. Expand pilot deportation scheme in Bosnia
15. Training for Balkans to deport migrants
16. Joint task forces with Balkans and countries of origin
17. Close loopholes in Balkan visa policy
18. Monitor migration laws passed in Balkans
19. Use visa-free travel as leverage over Balkans
20. Joint EU messages to Balkans and countries of origin
How I connect with my kids when working or travelling
Little notes: My girls often find a letter from me, with a joke, task or some instructions for the afternoon, and saying what I’m excited for when I get home.
Phone call check-in: My kids know that at 3.30pm I’ll be free for a quick chat.
Highs and lows: Instead of a “how was your day?”, at dinner or at bathtime we share three highlights; one thing that didn’t go so well; and something we’re looking forward to.
I start, you next: In the morning, I often start a little Lego project or drawing, and ask them to work on it while I’m gone, then we’ll finish it together.
Bedtime connection: Wake up and sleep time are important moments. A snuggle, some proud words, listening, a story. I can’t be there every night, but I can start the day with them.
Undivided attention: Putting the phone away when I get home often means sitting in the car to send a last email, but leaving it out of sight between home time and bedtime means you can connect properly.
Demystify, don’t demonise your job: Help them understand what you do, where and why. Show them your workplace if you can, then it’s not so abstract when you’re away - they’ll picture you there. Invite them into your “other” world so they know more about the different roles you have.
Tips for travelling while needing dialysis
- Inform your doctor about your plans.
- Ask about your treatment so you know how it works.
- Pay attention to your health if you travel to a hot destination.
- Plan your trip well.
Padmaavat
Director: Sanjay Leela Bhansali
Starring: Ranveer Singh, Deepika Padukone, Shahid Kapoor, Jim Sarbh
3.5/5
Indoor Cricket World Cup
Venue Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23
UAE squad Saqib Nazir (captain), Aaqib Malik, Fahad Al Hashmi, Isuru Umesh, Nadir Hussain, Sachin Talwar, Nashwan Nasir, Prashath Kumara, Ramveer Rai, Sameer Nayyak, Umar Shah, Vikrant Shetty
The specs
Engine: Single front-axle electric motor
Power: 218hp
Torque: 330Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Max touring range: 402km (claimed)
Price: From Dh215,000 (estimate)
On sale: September
How to wear a kandura
Dos
- Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion
- Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
- Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work
- Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester
Don’ts
- Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal
- Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
MATCH INFO
Chelsea 4 (Mount 18',Werner 44', Hudson-Odoi 49', Havertz 85')
Morecambe 0
DEADPOOL & WOLVERINE
Starring: Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Emma Corrin
Director: Shawn Levy
Rating: 3/5
The US Congress, explained
- US Congress is divided into two chambers: the House of Representatives and Senate
- 435 members make up the House, and 100 in the Senate
- A party needs control of 218 seats to have a majority in the House
- In the Senate, a party needs to hold 51 seats for control
- In the event of a 50-50 split, the vice president's party retains power in the Senate
RESULTS - ELITE MEN
1. Henri Schoeman (RSA) 57:03
2. Mario Mola (ESP) 57:09
3. Vincent Luis (FRA) 57:25
4. Leo Bergere (FRA)57:34
5. Jacob Birtwhistle (AUS) 57:40
6. Joao Silva (POR) 57:45
7. Jonathan Brownlee (GBR) 57:56
8. Adrien Briffod (SUI) 57:57
9. Gustav Iden (NOR) 57:58
10. Richard Murray (RSA) 57:59
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Sarfira
Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal
Rating: 2/5
In The Heights
Directed by: Jon M. Chu
Stars: Anthony Ramos, Lin-Manual Miranda
Rating: ****
How Alia's experiment will help humans get to Mars
Alia’s winning experiment examined how genes might change under the stresses caused by being in space, such as cosmic radiation and microgravity.
Her samples were placed in a machine on board the International Space Station. called a miniPCR thermal cycler, which can copy DNA multiple times.
After the samples were examined on return to Earth, scientists were able to successfully detect changes caused by being in space in the way DNA transmits instructions through proteins and other molecules in living organisms.
Although Alia’s samples were taken from nematode worms, the results have much bigger long term applications, especially for human space flight and long term missions, such as to Mars.
It also means that the first DNA experiments using human genomes can now be carried out on the ISS.
Types of fraud
Phishing: Fraudsters send an unsolicited email that appears to be from a financial institution or online retailer. The hoax email requests that you provide sensitive information, often by clicking on to a link leading to a fake website.
Smishing: The SMS equivalent of phishing. Fraudsters falsify the telephone number through “text spoofing,” so that it appears to be a genuine text from the bank.
Vishing: The telephone equivalent of phishing and smishing. Fraudsters may pose as bank staff, police or government officials. They may persuade the consumer to transfer money or divulge personal information.
SIM swap: Fraudsters duplicate the SIM of your mobile number without your knowledge or authorisation, allowing them to conduct financial transactions with your bank.
Identity theft: Someone illegally obtains your confidential information, through various ways, such as theft of your wallet, bank and utility bill statements, computer intrusion and social networks.
Prize scams: Fraudsters claiming to be authorised representatives from well-known organisations (such as Etisalat, du, Dubai Shopping Festival, Expo2020, Lulu Hypermarket etc) contact victims to tell them they have won a cash prize and request them to share confidential banking details to transfer the prize money.
* Nada El Sawy
SWEET TOOTH
Created by: Jim Mickle, Beth Schwartz
Stars: Nonso Anozie, Christian Convery, Adeel Akhtar, Stefania LaVie Owen
Rating: 3.5/5
Company profile
Company name: Leap
Started: March 2021
Founders: Ziad Toqan and Jamil Khammu
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Funds raised: Undisclosed
Current number of staff: Seven
Ruwais timeline
1971 Abu Dhabi National Oil Company established
1980 Ruwais Housing Complex built, located 10 kilometres away from industrial plants
1982 120,000 bpd capacity Ruwais refinery complex officially inaugurated by the founder of the UAE Sheikh Zayed
1984 Second phase of Ruwais Housing Complex built. Today the 7,000-unit complex houses some 24,000 people.
1985 The refinery is expanded with the commissioning of a 27,000 b/d hydro cracker complex
2009 Plans announced to build $1.2 billion fertilizer plant in Ruwais, producing urea
2010 Adnoc awards $10bn contracts for expansion of Ruwais refinery, to double capacity from 415,000 bpd
2014 Ruwais 261-outlet shopping mall opens
2014 Production starts at newly expanded Ruwais refinery, providing jet fuel and diesel and allowing the UAE to be self-sufficient for petrol supplies
2014 Etihad Rail begins transportation of sulphur from Shah and Habshan to Ruwais for export
2017 Aldar Academies to operate Adnoc’s schools including in Ruwais from September. Eight schools operate in total within the housing complex.
2018 Adnoc announces plans to invest $3.1 billion on upgrading its Ruwais refinery
2018 NMC Healthcare selected to manage operations of Ruwais Hospital
2018 Adnoc announces new downstream strategy at event in Abu Dhabi on May 13
Source: The National
Five famous companies founded by teens
There are numerous success stories of teen businesses that were created in college dorm rooms and other modest circumstances. Below are some of the most recognisable names in the industry:
- Facebook: Mark Zuckerberg and his friends started Facebook when he was a 19-year-old Harvard undergraduate.
- Dell: When Michael Dell was an undergraduate student at Texas University in 1984, he started upgrading computers for profit. He starting working full-time on his business when he was 19. Eventually, his company became the Dell Computer Corporation and then Dell Inc.
- Subway: Fred DeLuca opened the first Subway restaurant when he was 17. In 1965, Mr DeLuca needed extra money for college, so he decided to open his own business. Peter Buck, a family friend, lent him $1,000 and together, they opened Pete’s Super Submarines. A few years later, the company was rebranded and called Subway.
- Mashable: In 2005, Pete Cashmore created Mashable in Scotland when he was a teenager. The site was then a technology blog. Over the next few decades, Mr Cashmore has turned Mashable into a global media company.
- Oculus VR: Palmer Luckey founded Oculus VR in June 2012, when he was 19. In August that year, Oculus launched its Kickstarter campaign and raised more than $1 million in three days. Facebook bought Oculus for $2 billion two years later.
The lowdown
Bohemian Rhapsody
Director: Bryan Singer
Starring: Rami Malek, Lucy Boynton, Gwilym Lee
Rating: 3/5
GOODBYE JULIA
Director: Mohamed Kordofani
Starring: Siran Riak, Eiman Yousif, Nazar Goma
Rating: 5/5
Star Wars: Episode I – The Phantom Menace
Developer: Big Ape Productions
Publisher: LucasArts
Consoles: PC, PlayStation
Rating: 2/5
Essentials
The flights
Emirates, Etihad and Malaysia Airlines all fly direct from the UAE to Kuala Lumpur and on to Penang from about Dh2,300 return, including taxes.
Where to stay
In Kuala Lumpur, Element is a recently opened, futuristic hotel high up in a Norman Foster-designed skyscraper. Rooms cost from Dh400 per night, including taxes. Hotel Stripes, also in KL, is a great value design hotel, with an infinity rooftop pool. Rooms cost from Dh310, including taxes.
In Penang, Ren i Tang is a boutique b&b in what was once an ancient Chinese Medicine Hall in the centre of Little India. Rooms cost from Dh220, including taxes.
23 Love Lane in Penang is a luxury boutique heritage hotel in a converted mansion, with private tropical gardens. Rooms cost from Dh400, including taxes.
In Langkawi, Temple Tree is a unique architectural villa hotel consisting of antique houses from all across Malaysia. Rooms cost from Dh350, including taxes.
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Gender equality in the workplace still 200 years away
It will take centuries to achieve gender parity in workplaces around the globe, according to a December report from the World Economic Forum.
The WEF study said there had been some improvements in wage equality in 2018 compared to 2017, when the global gender gap widened for the first time in a decade.
But it warned that these were offset by declining representation of women in politics, coupled with greater inequality in their access to health and education.
At current rates, the global gender gap across a range of areas will not close for another 108 years, while it is expected to take 202 years to close the workplace gap, WEF found.
The Geneva-based organisation's annual report tracked disparities between the sexes in 149 countries across four areas: education, health, economic opportunity and political empowerment.
After years of advances in education, health and political representation, women registered setbacks in all three areas this year, WEF said.
Only in the area of economic opportunity did the gender gap narrow somewhat, although there is not much to celebrate, with the global wage gap narrowing to nearly 51 per cent.
And the number of women in leadership roles has risen to 34 per cent globally, WEF said.
At the same time, the report showed there are now proportionately fewer women than men participating in the workforce, suggesting that automation is having a disproportionate impact on jobs traditionally performed by women.
And women are significantly under-represented in growing areas of employment that require science, technology, engineering and mathematics skills, WEF said.
* Agence France Presse
J Street Polling Results
97% of Jewish-Americans are concerned about the rise in anti-Semitism
76% of US Jewish voters believe Donald Trump and his allies in the Republican Party are responsible for a rise in anti-Semitism
74% of American Jews agreed that “Trump and the Maga movement are a threat to Jews in America"
The Facility’s Versatility
Between the start of the 2020 IPL on September 20, and the end of the Pakistan Super League this coming Thursday, the Zayed Cricket Stadium has had an unprecedented amount of traffic.
Never before has a ground in this country – or perhaps anywhere in the world – had such a volume of major-match cricket.
And yet scoring has remained high, and Abu Dhabi has seen some classic encounters in every format of the game.
October 18, IPL, Kolkata Knight Riders tied with Sunrisers Hyderabad
The two playoff-chasing sides put on 163 apiece, before Kolkata went on to win the Super Over
January 8, ODI, UAE beat Ireland by six wickets
A century by CP Rizwan underpinned one of UAE’s greatest ever wins, as they chased 270 to win with an over to spare
February 6, T10, Northern Warriors beat Delhi Bulls by eight wickets
The final of the T10 was chiefly memorable for a ferocious over of fast bowling from Fidel Edwards to Nicholas Pooran
March 14, Test, Afghanistan beat Zimbabwe by six wickets
Eleven wickets for Rashid Khan, 1,305 runs scored in five days, and a last session finish
June 17, PSL, Islamabad United beat Peshawar Zalmi by 15 runs
Usman Khawaja scored a hundred as Islamabad posted the highest score ever by a Pakistan team in T20 cricket
Short-term let permits explained
Homeowners and tenants are allowed to list their properties for rental by registering through the Dubai Tourism website to obtain a permit.
Tenants also require a letter of no objection from their landlord before being allowed to list the property.
There is a cost of Dh1,590 before starting the process, with an additional licence fee of Dh300 per bedroom being rented in your home for the duration of the rental, which ranges from three months to a year.
Anyone hoping to list a property for rental must also provide a copy of their title deeds and Ejari, as well as their Emirates ID.
MATCH INFO
What: Brazil v South Korea
When: Tonight, 5.30pm
Where: Mohamed bin Zayed Stadium, Abu Dhabi
Tickets: www.ticketmaster.ae
The years Ramadan fell in May
MO
Creators: Mohammed Amer, Ramy Youssef
Stars: Mohammed Amer, Teresa Ruiz, Omar Elba
Rating: 4/5
The Specs
Engine: 1.6-litre 4-cylinder petrol
Power: 118hp
Torque: 149Nm
Transmission: Six-speed automatic
Price: From Dh61,500
On sale: Now
Specs: 2024 McLaren Artura Spider
Engine: 3.0-litre twin-turbo V6 and electric motor
Max power: 700hp at 7,500rpm
Max torque: 720Nm at 2,250rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed dual-clutch auto
0-100km/h: 3.0sec
Top speed: 330kph
Price: From Dh1.14 million ($311,000)
On sale: Now
Copa del Rey
Barcelona v Real Madrid
Semi-final, first leg
Wednesday (midnight UAE)
the pledge
I pledge to uphold the duty of tolerance
I pledge to take a first stand against hate and injustice
I pledge to respect and accept people whose abilities, beliefs and culture are different from my own
I pledge to wish for others what I wish for myself
I pledge to live in harmony with my community
I pledge to always be open to dialogue and forgiveness
I pledge to do my part to create peace for all
I pledge to exercise benevolence and choose kindness in all my dealings with my community
I pledge to always stand up for these values: Zayed's values for tolerance and human fraternity
Confirmed bouts (more to be added)
Cory Sandhagen v Umar Nurmagomedov
Nick Diaz v Vicente Luque
Michael Chiesa v Tony Ferguson
Deiveson Figueiredo v Marlon Vera
Mackenzie Dern v Loopy Godinez
Tickets for the August 3 Fight Night, held in partnership with the Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi, went on sale earlier this month, through www.etihadarena.ae and www.ticketmaster.ae.
The story in numbers
18
This is how many recognised sects Lebanon is home to, along with about four million citizens
450,000
More than this many Palestinian refugees are registered with UNRWA in Lebanon, with about 45 per cent of them living in the country’s 12 refugee camps
1.5 million
There are just under 1 million Syrian refugees registered with the UN, although the government puts the figure upwards of 1.5m
73
The percentage of stateless people in Lebanon, who are not of Palestinian origin, born to a Lebanese mother, according to a 2012-2013 study by human rights organisation Frontiers Ruwad Association
18,000
The number of marriages recorded between Lebanese women and foreigners between the years 1995 and 2008, according to a 2009 study backed by the UN Development Programme
77,400
The number of people believed to be affected by the current nationality law, according to the 2009 UN study
4,926
This is how many Lebanese-Palestinian households there were in Lebanon in 2016, according to a census by the Lebanese-Palestinian dialogue committee