Sailing through thousand-year-old icebergs, scuba diving between tectonic plates and hiking volcanoes are everyday activities in Iceland. Home to more than 260 glaciers and 130 volcanoes, the untamed Nordic nation holds surprises around almost every corner.
Since shooting to pop-culture fame as the backdrop for much of the hit HBO series Game of Thrones, the country has become inundated with winter visitors who marvel at its northern lights and spectacular snow-capped mountains. But, since winter also brings minus temperatures and only five hours of daylight, sightseeing opportunities are limited.
That is why I decided to make a summer visit instead. Opting to tackle the country on a spectacular road trip around Highway 1, I made light work of the country's 1,200km ring road, completing it in just one week thanks to 20 hours of daylight. From galloping horses, vast glaciers and thundering waterfalls to awe-inspiring landscapes, there is no shortage of places to go and see when exploring Iceland at a time of year when the sun barely sets.
48 hours in Reykjavik
The obvious starting point for any road trip is Reykjavik, Iceland's capital, although it feels more like a fishing village than a bustling commercial hub. A few days here gives me plenty of time to explore its charming colourful wooden houses, the austere concrete Hallgrimskirkja church, and the Icelandic nature-inspired exhibitions of the Perlan museum, which also has a rooftop restaurant with epic views.
Best of the Golden Circle
Taking roughly three hours, the Golden Circle is a spectacular drive that encompasses exploding 30-metre-tall geysers, stunning blue crater lakes and the incredible wonders of Thingvellir National Park, the only place in the world where you can walk (and scuba dive) between two tectonic plates.
Even on a cold day, stopping for a home-made treat at the Efstidalur Farm ice cream barn seems like a good idea. The rustic cafe is also a farm and hotel and has a genuine country vibe. Huge wide windows in the cafe allow visitors to gaze in on the very cows that the ice cream comes from.
I save the best for last, the formidable Gullfoss waterfall is the star of this part of the trip. Dramatic, powerful and slightly terrifying, I hear its deafening roar well before I see it.
Escaping the world in Siglufjorour
Most of the Netflix thriller series Trapped was filmed in Siglufjorour, so the fishing town in northern Iceland might feel familiar to anyone that's seen the show.
In winter the destination is largely cut off from the rest of the country by snowdrifts, but in summer it is reachable via a picturesque three-hour detour from the ring road. With green mountains and fields of purple lupin flowers on one side, and the wild ocean on the other, it is a quintessential idyllic coastal village.
The Herring Era Museum is the top attraction in town and also a great place to while away an hour or two enjoying a cold drink and an Icelandic rye bread sandwich as I look out over the boats and the paintbox harbour buildings.
Found in the most remote corner of western Iceland, Studlagil is a place visited by only the most intrepid travellers. There's not a shop for miles around here, so I pack snacks and fill up on petrol beforehand.
Part of Jokuldalur Glacier Valley, the canyon is a few kilometres down a narrow farm track and is home to the largest number of basalt rock columns in the country. It also has a vibrant blue-green river, which I tower over on a suspended mesh-bottomed platform for a better view. A meander along the bottom of the canyon is an equally impressive way to view the beauty spot.
Sailing around Jokulsarlon glacier lake
An icy expanse littered with floating icebergs and bobbing seals, Jokulsarlon is a large glacial lake and one of the most mesmerising sites in Iceland. Just across the road is Diamond Beach, so named because of the huge ice chunks that congregate on its black sands, and named by Banana Boat as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Marking the point where Jokulsarlon meets the dark and choppy sea, the otherworldly landmark seems almost unreal.
Venturing to the Westman Islands
The Westman Islands, or Vestmannaeyjar, are almost completely uninhabited and most tourists miss them off their itinerary altogether. But it is summer, I have time to venture over and the waters are calmer than in winter. A majestic group of rocky outcrops and soaring cliffs, the islands are home to the largest Atlantic puffin colony in the world.
Heimaey, the biggest island in the archipelago, is a 40-minute ferry ride from the mainland. Pufflings can be spotted from its cliff top footpaths in August and September and a tour of the world’s first beluga whale sanctuary is on offer here. It is home to two white whales that were rescued from a Chinese theme park and starred in the UK TV show John Bishop’s Great Whale Rescue.
With lots of cosy pubs and puffin-themed shops and cafes to explore, the island makes for a great day trip for nature lovers. Golfers will also be impressed by the unique layout and scenery of the 18-hole course inside the Herjolfsdalur valley, which is like no other course in the world.
Natural hot springs and casual bites
About 90 per cent of Iceland’s hot water is heated by geothermal sources. Littered with hot springs, the most famous is the Blue Lagoon. A striking azure pool surrounded by black volcanic rock, the surreal experience has swim up bars and a natural face mask station. Tickets start at Dh350 ($95) and need to be booked in advance.
Sky Lagoon offers a more serene and less crowded experience, while Reykjadalur thermal river, found up in the mountains about an hour south of Reykjavik, allows me to sink into nature. It is at the top of a picturesque, 3km climb. The lack of changing rooms might concern luxury travellers, but for hardy Icelanders and adventure seekers it is all part of the challenge.
Lying on the warm, stony stream bed with dozens of other hikers is one of my favourite Iceland moments. Afterwards, I enjoy a cheese toastie from the car park cafe. It turns out that, eating out in a country that is often thought of as expensive doesn't have to be ludicrously so. It's all about keeping it casual.
Icelanders love hot dogs and, while the Bill Clinton-approved Baejarins Beztu in Reykjavik are something of a rite of passage for every visitor, even the ones I find at the petrol station are surprisingly good. The country is also renowned for its fishing industry, so fish and chips are available in every village.
A wild and rugged break from the ordinary, Iceland is every bit the summer adventure that I'd been dreaming of.
Williams at Wimbledon
Venus Williams - 5 titles (2000, 2001, 2005, 2007 and 2008)
Serena Williams - 7 titles (2002, 2003, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2015 and 2016)
Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
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Four reasons global stock markets are falling right now
There are many factors worrying investors right now and triggering a rush out of stock markets. Here are four of the biggest:
1. Rising US interest rates
The US Federal Reserve has increased interest rates three times this year in a bid to prevent its buoyant economy from overheating. They now stand at between 2 and 2.25 per cent and markets are pencilling in three more rises next year.
Kim Catechis, manager of the Legg Mason Martin Currie Global Emerging Markets Fund, says US inflation is rising and the Fed will continue to raise rates in 2019. “With inflationary pressures growing, an increasing number of corporates are guiding profitability expectations downwards for 2018 and 2019, citing the negative impact of rising costs.”
At the same time as rates are rising, central bankers in the US and Europe have been ending quantitative easing, bringing the era of cheap money to an end.
2. Stronger dollar
High US rates have driven up the value of the dollar and bond yields, and this is putting pressure on emerging market countries that took advantage of low interest rates to run up trillions in dollar-denominated debt. They have also suffered capital outflows as international investors have switched to the US, driving markets lower. Omar Negyal, portfolio manager of the JP Morgan Global Emerging Markets Income Trust, says this looks like a buying opportunity. “Despite short-term volatility we remain positive about long-term prospects and profitability for emerging markets.”
3. Global trade war
Ritu Vohora, investment director at fund manager M&G, says markets fear that US President Donald Trump’s spat with China will escalate into a full-blown global trade war, with both sides suffering. “The US economy is robust enough to absorb higher input costs now, but this may not be the case as tariffs escalate. However, with a host of factors hitting investor sentiment, this is becoming a stock picker’s market.”
4. Eurozone uncertainty
Europe faces two challenges right now in the shape of Brexit and the new populist government in eurozone member Italy.
Chris Beauchamp, chief market analyst at IG, which has offices in Dubai, says the stand-off between between Rome and Brussels threatens to become much more serious. "As with Brexit, neither side appears willing to step back from the edge, threatening more trouble down the line.”
The European economy may also be slowing, Mr Beauchamp warns. “A four-year low in eurozone manufacturing confidence highlights the fact that producers see a bumpy road ahead, with US-EU trade talks remaining a major question-mark for exporters.”
'The worst thing you can eat'
Trans fat is typically found in fried and baked goods, but you may be consuming more than you think.
Powdered coffee creamer, microwave popcorn and virtually anything processed with a crust is likely to contain it, as this guide from Mayo Clinic outlines:
Baked goods - Most cakes, cookies, pie crusts and crackers contain shortening, which is usually made from partially hydrogenated vegetable oil. Ready-made frosting is another source of trans fat.
Snacks - Potato, corn and tortilla chips often contain trans fat. And while popcorn can be a healthy snack, many types of packaged or microwave popcorn use trans fat to help cook or flavour the popcorn.
Fried food - Foods that require deep frying — french fries, doughnuts and fried chicken — can contain trans fat from the oil used in the cooking process.
Refrigerator dough - Products such as canned biscuits and cinnamon rolls often contain trans fat, as do frozen pizza crusts.
Creamer and margarine - Nondairy coffee creamer and stick margarines also may contain partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.
The five pillars of Islam
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
MATCH INFO
Europa League final
Marseille 0
Atletico Madrid 3
Greizmann (21', 49'), Gabi (89')
LILO & STITCH
Starring: Sydney Elizebeth Agudong, Maia Kealoha, Chris Sanders
Director: Dean Fleischer Camp
Rating: 4.5/5
HIJRA
Starring: Lamar Faden, Khairiah Nathmy, Nawaf Al-Dhufairy
Director: Shahad Ameen
Rating: 3/5
The specs
Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel
Power: 579hp
Torque: 859Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh825,900
On sale: Now
NYBL PROFILE
Company name: Nybl
Date started: November 2018
Founder: Noor Alnahhas, Michael LeTan, Hafsa Yazdni, Sufyaan Abdul Haseeb, Waleed Rifaat, Mohammed Shono
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Software Technology / Artificial Intelligence
Initial investment: $500,000
Funding round: Series B (raising $5m)
Partners/Incubators: Dubai Future Accelerators Cohort 4, Dubai Future Accelerators Cohort 6, AI Venture Labs Cohort 1, Microsoft Scale-up
RESULTS
6.30pm Handicap (TB) $68,000 (Dirt) 1,200m
Winner Canvassed, Par Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer)
7.05pm Meydan Cup – Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (Turf) 2,810m
Winner Dubai Future, Frankie Dettori, Saeed bin Suroor
7.40pm UAE 2000 Guineas – Group 3 (TB) $125,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Mouheeb, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard
8.15pm Firebreak Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $130,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Secret Ambition, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar
9.50pm Meydan Classic – Conditions (TB) $$50,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner Topper Bill, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
9.25pm Dubai Sprint – Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,200m
Winner Man Of Promise, William Buick, Charlie Appleby
DEADPOOL & WOLVERINE
Starring: Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Emma Corrin
Director: Shawn Levy
Rating: 3/5
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
THE RESULTS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m
Winner: Alnawar, Connor Beasley (jockey), Helal Al Alawi (trainer)
5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m
Winner: Raniah, Noel Garbutt, Ernst Oertel
6pm: Handicap (PA) Dh90,000 2,200m
Winner: Saarookh, Richard Mullen, Ana Mendez
6.30pm: Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan Jewel Crown (PA) Rated Conditions Dh125,000 1,600m
Winner: RB Torch, Tadhg O’Shea, Eric Lemartinel
7pm: Al Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap Dh70,000 1,600m
Winner: MH Wari, Antonio Fresu, Elise Jeane
7.30pm: Handicap Dh90,000 1,600m
Winner: Mailshot, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer
BOSH!'s pantry essentials
Nutritional yeast
This is Firth's pick and an ingredient he says, "gives you an instant cheesy flavour". He advises making your own cream cheese with it or simply using it to whip up a mac and cheese or wholesome lasagne. It's available in organic and specialist grocery stores across the UAE.
Seeds
"We've got a big jar of mixed seeds in our kitchen," Theasby explains. "That's what you use to make a bolognese or pie or salad: just grab a handful of seeds and sprinkle them over the top. It's a really good way to make sure you're getting your omegas."
Umami flavours
"I could say soya sauce, but I'll say all umami-makers and have them in the same batch," says Firth. He suggests having items such as Marmite, balsamic vinegar and other general, dark, umami-tasting products in your cupboard "to make your bolognese a little bit more 'umptious'".
Onions and garlic
"If you've got them, you can cook basically anything from that base," says Theasby. "These ingredients are so prevalent in every world cuisine and if you've got them in your cupboard, then you know you've got the foundation of a really nice meal."
Your grain of choice
Whether rice, quinoa, pasta or buckwheat, Firth advises always having a stock of your favourite grains in the cupboard. "That you, you have an instant meal and all you have to do is just chuck a bit of veg in."
Points to remember
- Debate the issue, don't attack the person
- Build the relationship and dialogue by seeking to find common ground
- Express passion for the issue but be aware of when you're losing control or when there's anger. If there is, pause and take some time out.
- Listen actively without interrupting
- Avoid assumptions, seek understanding, ask questions
