• The privately owned Earthlink internet provider is catering to diehard football fans in Iraq by setting up a giant screen in public to show all Fifa World Cup matches. All photos: Sinan Mahmoud / The National
    The privately owned Earthlink internet provider is catering to diehard football fans in Iraq by setting up a giant screen in public to show all Fifa World Cup matches. All photos: Sinan Mahmoud / The National
  • Iraqis can enjoy the live games at the courtyard of Baghdad’s Town Centre Mall in the commercial hub of Mansour
    Iraqis can enjoy the live games at the courtyard of Baghdad’s Town Centre Mall in the commercial hub of Mansour
  • The moment when Cody Gakpo opened the scoring for the Netherlands in the 84th minute against Senegal
    The moment when Cody Gakpo opened the scoring for the Netherlands in the 84th minute against Senegal
  • The atmosphere among the fans was quite subdued in the first half but changed in the second as both the Netherlands and Senegal picked up the pace
    The atmosphere among the fans was quite subdued in the first half but changed in the second as both the Netherlands and Senegal picked up the pace
  • A man distributes sweepstake tickets on who will lift the World Cup, with a tablet on offer for the winner
    A man distributes sweepstake tickets on who will lift the World Cup, with a tablet on offer for the winner
  • Abdullah Al Qaisi, a 25-year old construction contractor, says he feels proud that Qatar is the first Arab country to host the World Cup
    Abdullah Al Qaisi, a 25-year old construction contractor, says he feels proud that Qatar is the first Arab country to host the World Cup
  • Construction worker Abbas Salam, 16, says he cannot afford to pay for encrypted channels to watch the matches so he enjoys the games at the fan zone
    Construction worker Abbas Salam, 16, says he cannot afford to pay for encrypted channels to watch the matches so he enjoys the games at the fan zone
  • Mr Salam puts a bet on Brazil
    Mr Salam puts a bet on Brazil

Iraqi fans enjoy first winter World Cup in outdoor cafes and terraces


Sinan Mahmoud
  • English
  • Arabic

As the Fifa World Cup kicks off in Qatar, diehard football fans in Iraq are gathering at cafes and open spaces to watch the games, enjoying free access to live streams and nice weather.

A privately owned internet provider has the football covered in Baghdad after setting up a giant screen in an open space to show all games. Cafes across the country are also packed with fans.

At the courtyard of the city's Town Centre Mall in the upscale commercial hub of Mansour, Iraqis are enjoying the games in temperatures around the 20ºC mark – down from the blistering summer heat usually associated with a summer World Cup.

It is the first World Cup to be held in the Arab world and the second held entirely in Asia after the 2002 tournament in South Korea and Japan.

The championship, which started on Sunday, ends on December 18.

Uniformed waiters briskly navigated the packed fan zone set up by Earthlink, serving the fans food, drinks and shisha.

Construction worker Abbas Salam, 16, said he cannot afford paying the encrypted channels to watch the matches so he enjoys the games at the fan zone. Sinan Mahmoud / The National
Construction worker Abbas Salam, 16, said he cannot afford paying the encrypted channels to watch the matches so he enjoys the games at the fan zone. Sinan Mahmoud / The National

Nearby, a man distributed tickets to a sweepstake for the winning team in the tournament, offering tablets and computers for the winners. The tickets offered for free as a promotion for an app for online learning.

Young people and families sat on fluffy bean bag chairs littered around the screen, with some huddled over wooden and metal tables from nearby cafes and restaurants.

“The atmosphere is amazing and the weather is fabulous,” Abdullah Al Qaisi, a 25-year-old construction contractor, told The National.

“I feel very proud to see an Arab country hosting the World Cup. It’s a success for all Arab countries and hopes one day Iraq will be able to host the tournament.”

The atmosphere among the fans was quiet during the subdued first half of the Senegal-Netherlands match.

But it changed in the second half, as Mr Al Qaisi and other fans held their breath when the teams started to push deeper.

Cody Gakpo opened the scoring for the Netherlands in the 84th minute with a header at the end of a brilliantly timed run. Substitute Davy Klaassen scored in the 99th minute.

  • The Netherlands' Cody Gakpo scores their first goal in the World Cup Group A match against Senegal at Al Thumama Stadium in Doha, Qatar, on November 21, 2022. Reuters
    The Netherlands' Cody Gakpo scores their first goal in the World Cup Group A match against Senegal at Al Thumama Stadium in Doha, Qatar, on November 21, 2022. Reuters
  • Cody Gakpo celebrates scoring the Netherlands' first goal against Senegal with Frenkie de Jong. Reuters
    Cody Gakpo celebrates scoring the Netherlands' first goal against Senegal with Frenkie de Jong. Reuters
  • Davy Klaassen of the Netherlands scores their second goal. Getty
    Davy Klaassen of the Netherlands scores their second goal. Getty
  • Davy Klaassen of the Netherlands celebrates after scoring their second. Getty
    Davy Klaassen of the Netherlands celebrates after scoring their second. Getty
  • Virgil van Dijk of the Netherlands, left, vies for the ball with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. AP
    Virgil van Dijk of the Netherlands, left, vies for the ball with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. AP
  • Senegal's Cheikhou Kouyate is taken from the field on a stretche. AP
    Senegal's Cheikhou Kouyate is taken from the field on a stretche. AP
  • Senegal's Ismaila Sarr is injured. Reuters
    Senegal's Ismaila Sarr is injured. Reuters
  • Denzel Dumfries, centre, jumps for a header with Senegal's Ismaila Sarr, left, and Matthijs de Ligt. AP
    Denzel Dumfries, centre, jumps for a header with Senegal's Ismaila Sarr, left, and Matthijs de Ligt. AP
  • Netherlands' Nathan Ake in action with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. Reuters
    Netherlands' Nathan Ake in action with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. Reuters
  • Denzel Dumfries of the Netherlands battles for possession with Pape Abou Cisse of Senegal. Getty
    Denzel Dumfries of the Netherlands battles for possession with Pape Abou Cisse of Senegal. Getty
  • Virgil van Dijk of the Netherlands, left, vies for the ball with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. AP
    Virgil van Dijk of the Netherlands, left, vies for the ball with Senegal's Boulaye Dia. AP
  • Netherlands' midfielder Steven Berghuis lifts the ball past Senegal midfielder Idrissa Gana Gueye. AFP
    Netherlands' midfielder Steven Berghuis lifts the ball past Senegal midfielder Idrissa Gana Gueye. AFP
  • Aliou Cisse, head coach of Senegal, speaks to Kalidou Koulibaly. Getty
    Aliou Cisse, head coach of Senegal, speaks to Kalidou Koulibaly. Getty
  • Netherlands' forward Cody Gakpo, right, misses a chance. AFP
    Netherlands' forward Cody Gakpo, right, misses a chance. AFP
  • Senegal defender Kalidou Koulibaly slides in on Netherlands' forward Cody Gakpo as Senegal keeper Edouard Mendy watches on. AFP
    Senegal defender Kalidou Koulibaly slides in on Netherlands' forward Cody Gakpo as Senegal keeper Edouard Mendy watches on. AFP
  • Daley Blind of the Netherlands, left, is challenged by Senegal's Krepin Diatta. AP
    Daley Blind of the Netherlands, left, is challenged by Senegal's Krepin Diatta. AP
  • Senegal's Ismaila Sarr and Netherlands' Denzel Dumfries collide. Reuters
    Senegal's Ismaila Sarr and Netherlands' Denzel Dumfries collide. Reuters
  • Senegal's Nampalys Mendy shoots. Reuters
    Senegal's Nampalys Mendy shoots. Reuters
  • Senegal's Pape Abou Cisse, right, remonstrates with referee Wilton Sampaio. AP
    Senegal's Pape Abou Cisse, right, remonstrates with referee Wilton Sampaio. AP
  • Virgil Van Dijk of the Netherlands battles for possession with Boulaye Dia of Senegal. Getty
    Virgil Van Dijk of the Netherlands battles for possession with Boulaye Dia of Senegal. Getty
  • Netherlands' midfielder Steven Berghuis and Senegal's Cheikhou Kouyate battle. AFP
    Netherlands' midfielder Steven Berghuis and Senegal's Cheikhou Kouyate battle. AFP
  • Abdou Diallo of Senegal fends off Denzel Dumfries of the Netherlands. EPA
    Abdou Diallo of Senegal fends off Denzel Dumfries of the Netherlands. EPA
  • Senegal goalkeeper Edouard Mendy claims a high ball. AP
    Senegal goalkeeper Edouard Mendy claims a high ball. AP
  • Steven Berghuis of the Netherlands, left, shoots. AP
    Steven Berghuis of the Netherlands, left, shoots. AP
  • Senegal keeper Edouard Mendy punches the ball clear. Getty
    Senegal keeper Edouard Mendy punches the ball clear. Getty
  • Brazilian referee Wilton Sampaio gives a yellow card to Netherlands' defender Matthijs De Ligt. AFP
    Brazilian referee Wilton Sampaio gives a yellow card to Netherlands' defender Matthijs De Ligt. AFP
  • Senegal's Boulaye Dia battles with Netherlands' Nathan Ake. AFP
    Senegal's Boulaye Dia battles with Netherlands' Nathan Ake. AFP

The fan zone offers construction worker Abbas Salam from Baghdad's Jihad area a chance to enjoy the games. He arrived with his two friends.

“We can’t afford to pay the [private] encrypted channels to watch the matches,” said Mr Salam, 16, as he was putting a tick mark under the Brazil flag in the raffle.

Football is Iraq's most popular sport, followed by basketball and swimming, a poll for the Independent Institute of Administration and Civil Society Studies research group in Iraq found.

Around 77 per cent of Iraqis say they are following the World Cup tournament matches, with Argentina topping the list of teams supported by Iraqis, followed by Brazil and Qatar.

Iraq did not qualify for the 2022 Fifa World Cup after losing to Iran 1-0 in June.

However, Iraq will host the eight-team Arabian Gulf football tournament in January for the first time since 1979.

The 25th Gulf Cup will be held in the southern city of Basra from January 6 to 19, when Iraq will be joined by Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Yemen.

Many Iraqis see it as a sign of their country's recovery after years of conflict, political and economic crises and uneasy relations with Gulf neighbours.

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Maximum speed: 22.7 knots (42kph)

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Updated: November 24, 2022, 8:24 AM