The welcome
The hotel’s Georgian facade is being refurbished, just as its interior was in 2007. A top-hat-wearing porter greets us kerbside. Inside is bustling, and at check-in, we’re offered a glass of delicious fresh lemonade. We’re quickly processed and directed to our rooms.
The neighbourhood
The Shelbourne is perfectly situated across from the lush St Stephen’s Green. Dublin’s city centre is so compact that all the important sights are within a 15-minute walk. That includes high-end shopping and performance artists on Grafton Street, the music-filled Temple Bar, Trinity College, the National Gallery of Dublin and the Spire.
The room
My seventh-floor room is more narrow than it is wide, the door opening onto a foyer, with cupboards, minibar and tea and coffee kit to the left and the bathroom to the right. The room itself is down a short hall. Floor-to-ceiling windows run the length, and a balcony overlooks a modest courtyard and an Irish flag proudly flying outside, one floor up, atop the hotel. Antique furniture is complemented by a soothing beige-grey palette. The bed and pillows are incredibly comfortable and the long stretch of blackout curtains are very effective. Best of all, the room is silent. Elemis bath products and a jar of bath salts are welcome.
The scene
The hotel is bustling with guests and locals who clearly enjoy the lobby’s Horseshoe Bar and No 27 Bar & Lounge. Guests are a mix of American aviation crew, people on business trips and tourist families with young children. Those used to the UAE’s vast hotels might find The Shelbourne cramped, but this is part of the charm of staying right in the heart of things. The gym has an 18-metre pool, and two rooms with free weights, treadmills and elliptical.
The service
Everything is lovely, from the way the porter greets us at the door, to the breakfast hostess and servers, to cleaning staff. Reception even mails a letter to the United States for me, free of charge. Wi-Fi is unlimited.
The food
Breakfast in The Saddle Room is gorgeous, with a full buffet and à la carte menu. Although it’s not halal, there are plenty of options, including Shelbourne eggs Benedict with grilled fillet of Irish beef (€23 [Dh95]). Don’t miss the dark, grainy Irish soda bread; it comes cold, but get your server to toast some up and slather it with butter and raspberry jam. For an extra €4 (Dh16), you can pick from five fruit-and-veg-rich juices. My favourite was “Energy”, with kale, spinach, flat parsley, soy lecithin, beetroot leaves and red gala apple. I enjoyed the in-room Clipper organic instant coffee, but missed having an espresso-maker.
Loved
The history. Founded in 1824 from three adjoining town houses, the place is even referenced in Irish author James Joyce’s epic novel Ulysses. There’s what might be the world’s tiniest museum in the lobby, while a slightly anachronistic television screen in the lobby reminds guests of all the stars who have stayed there before, among them John F Kennedy Jr just months before his assassination.
Hated
An electronic clock that lights up the room, making the blackout curtains redundant. I wish hotels would start considering light pollution in their designs.
The verdict
A vibrant, cosy home base for work or play.
The bottom line
Queen rooms at The Shelbourne (www.marriott.com) cost from €292 (Dh1,201), including breakfast and taxes.
amcqueen@thenational.ae
