The fashion industry made a heady return to Paris this week, as a sense of almost-normalcy returned to proceedings. Large-scale, in-person shows are back on the agenda after a Covid-enforced hiatus and the mood is decidedly celebratory.
Things were particularly upbeat at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing marked his 10th anniversary as the brand's creative head, with a two-day fashion festival that involved the general public. Saint Laurent made a return to the Paris Fashion Week calendar with a bold show at the base of the Eiffel Tower, while Dior served up some much-needed colour in a presentation that harked back to the 1960s and '70s.
Olivier Rousteing's decade of disruption
One of Rousteing's most ardent supporters was on hand to pay homage at the Balmain show, as it opened with an emotional message from Beyonce, who credited the creative head with injecting diversity into the fashion industry.
“[You] brought a new mindset to help persuade fashion to finally begin to reflect the real true beauty of today’s streets, the beauty that you and your team see daily on the diverse, impressive boulevards and avenues of your beloved Paris,” she said. ”For 10 years you have been determined to keep pushing that door open ... wide open."
Queen Bey’s hit Halo then played in the background as 1990s supermodels Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni took to the runway, kicking off a high-octane show that celebrated a decade of Rousteing’s creativity – from his stiff, structure 1980s silhouettes, to slinky gold and metal gowns, and his famously giant shoulders.
The show played out in the La Seine Musicale concert complex on the outskirts of the city, and was open to thousands of members of the general public, as part of a two-day celebration complete with merchandise stands, food stalls and performances.
Saint Laurent makes a triumphant return
Former French first lady Bruni and actress Catherine Deneuve were among those to witness Saint Laurent’s triumphant return to Paris Fashion Week. Having renounced the fashion week calendar in 2020, the brand made a strong comeback, sending models down a runway at the base of the Eiffel Tower, with the glittering monument serving as a larger-than-life backdrop.
Anthony Vaccarello served up skin-tight bodysuits and sharply tailored eveningwear in a collection that oozed glamour. Tuxedo dresses appeared in pale hues, paired with bright blue gloves, while thick gold bracelets and spiky heels added Vaccarello’s signature edge.
Dior brings a burst of colour
Christian Dior brought a burst of colour to the Paris Fashion Week calendar, as Maria Grazia Chiuri explored the maison’s output under Marc Bohan, who was famous for modernising styles and loosening silhouettes in the 1960s and 70s.
Cinched Bar jackets were swapped for short, boxy cuts with rounded shoulders, and paired with mini skirts and shorts. Technical fabrics like scuba material were woven into the collection, adding an unexpectedly sporty touch, while go-go boots and low-heeled Mary Janes from the 1960s and 70s were repurposed and served up in hot pink and bright orange, with laces and white, rubber soles.
Finally, neon leopard prints and pastel camouflage patterns were set against animal motifs that were blown up and applied with embroidery techniques.
Rochas
Amid the gilded interiors of the Mona Bismarck Hotel, Rochas presented a typically resplendent collection. The mood was set by a shimmering ruched gold and red skirt paired with giant gold pirate boots with wings attached the back, followed by short and long lamé dresses in shades of red and black.
Oversized proportions, and a bounty of ruffles and ruching should have given the collection a light, floaty feel, but these were injected with a darker edge, with the show notes referencing a “strange beauty” and “cinematic vignettes”.
Points to remember
- Debate the issue, don't attack the person
- Build the relationship and dialogue by seeking to find common ground
- Express passion for the issue but be aware of when you're losing control or when there's anger. If there is, pause and take some time out.
- Listen actively without interrupting
- Avoid assumptions, seek understanding, ask questions
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
The stats
Ship name: MSC Bellissima
Ship class: Meraviglia Class
Delivery date: February 27, 2019
Gross tonnage: 171,598 GT
Passenger capacity: 5,686
Crew members: 1,536
Number of cabins: 2,217
Length: 315.3 metres
Maximum speed: 22.7 knots (42kph)
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl
Power: 153hp at 6,000rpm
Torque: 200Nm at 4,000rpm
Transmission: 6-speed auto
Price: Dh99,000
On sale: now
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
On the menu
First course
▶ Emirati sea bass tartare Yuzu and labneh mayo, avocado, green herbs, fermented tomato water
▶ The Tale of the Oyster Oyster tartare, Bahraini gum berry pickle
Second course
▶ Local mackerel Sourdough crouton, baharat oil, red radish, zaatar mayo
▶ One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Quail, smoked freekeh, cinnamon cocoa
Third course
▶ Bahraini bouillabaisse Venus clams, local prawns, fishfarm seabream, farro
▶ Lamb 2 ways Braised lamb, crispy lamb chop, bulgur, physalis
Dessert
▶ Lumi Black lemon ice cream, pistachio, pomegranate
▶ Black chocolate bar Dark chocolate, dates, caramel, camel milk ice cream
Results
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The President's Cake
Director: Hasan Hadi
Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem
Rating: 4/5
West Asia Premiership
Dubai Hurricanes 58-10 Dubai Knights Eagles
Dubai Tigers 5-39 Bahrain
Jebel Ali Dragons 16-56 Abu Dhabi Harlequins
THE SPECS
Engine: 4.4-litre V8
Transmission: Automatic
Power: 530bhp
Torque: 750Nm
Price: Dh535,000
On sale: Now
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Company%20Profile
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Dubai Bling season three
Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed
Rating: 1/5
Votes
Total votes: 1.8 million
Ashraf Ghani: 923,592 votes
Abdullah Abdullah: 720,841 votes
