New menu at: Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Dubai Marina

Ruth’s Chris Steak House’s new beet tartare stater swaps cool, crunchy beetroot in place of beef or tuna. Photo by Sanna Kontinen

What

Ruth’s Chris is a historic, US-born fine-dining steakhouse chain with a long and storied history, which goes some way to explaining its cumbersome name – in 1965, single mother Ruth Fertel bought the original Chris Steak House in New Orleans, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Now, in a bid to better reflect “current global food trends”, the brand has reportedly ordered a first comprehensive menu overhaul in its 52-year tenure, which is slowly being rolled out across the chain’s 140 venues – and has recently landed at the UAE’s flagship outpost, based at The Address Dubai Marina.

The atmosphere

Now five years old, Ruth’s Chris Dubai remains buzzing-on-a-weeknight busy. The vibe is casually classy, with the sound of clashing cutlery mixing with a chilled pop soundtrack, while the mood lighting, deep furnishings and white table cloths hark back to the days of after-work Mad Men cool.

The food

Not knowing where to begin from this expanded array of offerings, I plump for two of “Ruth’s favourites”, helpfully highlighted in red in the menu. I kick off with the sizzling blue crab cakes (Dh110) – two generous, meaty, moreish slabs of crab served in sizzling butter, which I like to imagine as posh New England comfort food. From the bewildering selection of 13 steaks on offer, I take Ruth’s top pick, the 11oz fillet (Dh310), with the “classic” au poivre sauce (Dh19). Served medium-rare on a plate reportedly piping at 500°C, this lean lump of Midwestern beef was tantalisingly tender, fulfilling every expectation of the brand’s expertise and heritage.

My dining companion instead chose to explore the ample new vegetarian menu, opening with the beet tartare (Dh70), which swaps cool, crunchy beetroot in place of beef or tuna, served with a smooth avocado crème fraîche. From the four (!) meat-free mains on offer, my fellow diner went with the go-to steakhouse veggie option, a wild mushroom and truffle risotto (Dh180) which, while not unpleasant, sadly lacked much truffle taste.

Complete with a three-cheese sauce, the side of potatoes au gratin (Dh40) was a decadent delight, while the sharp grilled asparagus (Dh45) came with a creamy hollandaise sauce.

The evening closed on another high note, sharing the highly recommended – and generously portioned – Crème brûlée, served with fresh berries.

Who is it for?

Carnivores, clearly – but the new menu’s broadened scope offers an olive branch to seafood lovers and veggie fiends alike.

The verdict

While this new global menu adds a dash of variety and colour, what Ruth’s Chris does best, it has been doing for decades. And that’s a glowing recommendation all on its own.

Bottom line

Ruth’s Chris Steak House is open at the The Address Dubai Marina daily from 5.30pm. For reservations call 04 454 9538.

The National was a guest of the restaurant