In a city that constantly tries to outdo itself, The Magic Table is certainly unique. The atmosphere gives the impression that the curtain is being pulled back, that you’re being let in on a secret where the tricks of the trade will be revealed.
The five-course meal is a foodie’s delight, and in keeping with Andaz Dubai The Palm’s high-end decor, it offers a magic experience that is more David Copperfield than Paul Daniels.
First impressions
I really didn’t know what to expect from the experience. On my way to the restaurant, I was conflicted: I like magic, I like meals, but I just wasn’t sure I liked magic with my meals. Would a magician suddenly whisk away my main course just as I was about to tuck in?
We were shown to our table by Felix, who plays his role as host to a tee: splendid, avuncular, top hat and tails to boot. The “sell” of The Magic Table is that it’s a journey into the world of magic where the guests become part of the story.
An overhead projection illuminates the table, where we are guided by Thommy Ten and Amelie van Tass, the illusionist duo better known as The Clairvoyants. While you dine, 3D visuals and live magic tricks happen right in front of you. There are plenty of history lessons along the way, from Harry Houdini’s great escapes to magicians who have you questioning reality.
Props, including a hat, a wand and a cape, are provided at your table. My wife and I are always the first to join in. I'll admit it feels a little gimmicky to start, but it's certainly a different restaurant welcome.
The menu
A series of quests must be navigated to move on to the next course. Each dish is woven into the narrative, each flavour revealing a surprise. Essentially, you’re working for your next plate of food.
After “unlocking” our starter, it’s immediately obvious that the juice is going to be well worth the squeeze. We were treated to the Grand Illusion package (Dh725 per person) and the evening kicks off with a bang. Slow-cooked duck breast, foie gras ganache, roasted peach and citrus pecans were light but enough to ignite the taste buds. It's the perfect opening act, and a tease of more culinary delights to come.
With the second challenge conquered (I won't spoil the details for future diners), we were treated to what my wife and I agreed was among the best soups we’ve tasted. The roasted butternut squash and dukkah spiced soup hit a lovely middle ground between rich and airy, with torched feta and crisp bacon adding a salty kick that played nicely off the soft sweetness of the pumpkin seed and cauliflower mousse.
We failed the next challenge miserably, but still were rewarded with a rich, creamy cheese ravioli complemented with tiger prawn and various other creatures from the sea. I enjoyed it so much I ended up finishing my wife’s plate as well.
The main course was The Revelation. To get to it, our magicians guided us on a journey to discover which branch of magic we belonged to. Despite following their instructions, I somehow ended up as an illusionist when a childhood secret of mine was that I wanted to be an escapologist.
Disappointment didn’t last too long, though, as the showstopping slow-cooked short ribs revealed just how a main course should be put together: meat that melted in the mouth, a feather-light, smooth carrot puree and smoked home-made BBQ sauce as sweet as honey dripping off the comb.
By the time dessert arrived, I was truly done, unlike my wife, who had paced herself through the previous four courses. My enthusiasm for working out the optical illusion lacked oomph. My get-up-and-go had got up and gone. I’d had my fill of both the food and the entertainment. The Finale, a chocolate marquise with a trim around the bowl that looked like noodles but was actually passion fruit curd, was delicious, but I couldn’t finish it.
No magic show would be complete without an encore. A hat was placed upside down on our table as we finished with a coffee. I had forgotten it was there before our host Felix closed the show, thanked us for being the “14th magician” and did a final act. As part of some temporary magic circle, I won’t reveal the finale. You’ll just have to go along and see for yourself.
Standout dish
It is hard to pick out one dish. I can eliminate the dessert by dint of barely making a hole in it as I was too stuffed from the previous four (well, five as I finished my wife’s cheese ravioli) courses. I look like the kind of bloke who eats road kill, so the slow-cooked ribs is the obvious one. But for pure unexpectedness, a dish packed with so much flavour I could have gone back for more, it has to be the roasted butternut squash and dukkah spiced soup.
Save or splurge
The Magic Table offers a range of packages: a children’s menu/Little Trick package (Dh310), Garden of Illusions Menu (Dh545) and a Wizard Feast (Dh595). There were two families in our Grand Illusion experience, and the children really enjoyed it.
Contact information
The Magic Table in Andaz Dubai The Palm is open Wednesday to Sunday, with two sittings (6pm and 9pm). From February 11 onwards there will be only one sitting, at 8pm. Reservations can be made by calling 04 581 1234.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
