The UAE’s food scene might centre around the glitz of Dubai’s rotating celebrity chefs, but the rest of the nation’s streets are also lined with sensational tastes.
From the intoxicating smells that waft from unassuming holes-in-the-wall to vibrant colours that form a melange on your plate, each dish tells a story – if you know where to find them.
In this series of guides, we speak to the experts – the tour guides, the nature-lovers and the artists – to unveil the UAE’s hidden gems.
In our last instalment, we speak to the foodies who have eaten their way around Dubai.
Now, we’ve cast the net out across Abu Dhabi, Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah with another set of chefs and food experts leading the way.
Russian borscht and vegan feasts in Abu Dhabi
For the founder of food website Best Bites UAE, Rachael Partington, it’s the small, family-run restaurants that form the backbone of the food scene in Abu Dhabi. And for those reasons, nowhere compares to Bandung.
Visit Abu Dhabi culinary team's top Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi
Yadoo’s House Restaurant & Cafe
For the karak and Yoodo's house platter with includes eggs, balaleet, khamir and chebab bread.
Golden Dallah
For the cappuccino, luqaimat and aseeda.
Al Mrzab Restaurant
For the shrimp murabian and Kuwaiti options including Kuwaiti machboos with kebab and spicy sauce.
Al Derwaza
For the fish hubul, regag bread, biryani and special seafood soup.
“This little slice of Indonesia is one of Abu Dhabi’s best hidden gems,” says Partington of the spot in Al Zahiyah. “It's a humble place that serves outstanding nasi goreng, which is a really flavourful accompaniment to the beef rendang.
“The squid in red chilli sauce and the lemon iced tea are super. What’s more, two people can eat well for under Dh100.”
For Abu Dhabi’s growing number of meat-free diners, Partington recommends Madinat Zayed’s Golden Spoon, a family affair led by Sahil Jairath and his parents.
“The menu is tremendous,” Partington says. “I particularly love the dahi bhalla. It’s a yoghurt-based dumpling dish that is simply delicious.
“Everything here is cooked with love from Mama Jairath’s own family recipes. It’s also incredibly pocket-friendly, which is just another reason to love it.”
Abu Dhabi isn’t particularly well known for its eastern European cuisine, but venture into a cluster of shops behind Hamna Street in Al Markayizah and you’ll be rewarded with borscht and plov aplenty at Russian House Kitchen, says Partington.
“Russian House Kitchen does exactly what it says on the tin – it serves excellent, home-style Russian food from scratch. There’s everything from freshly baked bread and pastries to superb borscht and jarkoe. I also love the chebureki, which is a deep-fried crispy pastry with seasoned ground beef and cheese.”
Partington’s final recommendation is Madinat Zayed’s Saigon House, a low-key Vietnamese eatery serving up authenticity in every bowl.
“I urge people to try the soft, pillowy banh bot loc tom, or tapioca shrimp dumplings,” she says. “Our team also love the pho, the coui goun fresh spring rolls and the banh xeo savoury pancake.”
Fujairah’s top Italian job and ‘one of the world’s best kebabs’
When it comes to identifying authenticity in the UAE, there’s only one person better to ask than someone born and raised eating the food – and that’s a chef born and raised eating the food.
And when it comes to Mediterranean-style seafood, Turkey’s Yunus Emre Aydin heads to Gonu Bar & Grill.
The executive chef at Dubai’s popular Italian restaurant Marea grew up on the Marmaris coast and when he wants a taste of home, the keen traveller hits the seaside spot in Fujairah’s Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort.
“You feel like you’re on the Mediterranean Sea with the exceptional views, the breeze, the sun and the food,” he says. “I’m super-impressed with the quality of the food.
“The Dibba oysters are as good as anywhere you’ll find while the mussel casserole is a delight.”
Fujairah’s shellfish dishes also stand out for Emirati chef Faisal Naser, who praises tiny pop-up Rushfit Mahar for theirs. “It’s a great little food truck where you can find the freshest seafood, especially in oysters and mussels,” he says about the truck located just off Hamzah Al Kufi Street.
“They offer different spices and sauces, great flavours, and it’s well worth the drive.
“I highly recommend the oyster plate, which is a signature dish.”
For meat eaters, Naser, who plans to take his Abu Dhabi restaurant Lento to Dubai in February, gives Iranian kebab shop Kabab Al Bastakiah the highest of praise. “It’s one of the best kebabs I’ve ever tasted,” he says of the restaurant near the Classic Cars Museum of Rugaylat Road.
“My favourite is the tikka lamb kofta kebab, served with freshly baked barbari, a traditional Persian bread. Grab a table on the terrace and enjoy.”
When it comes to high praise, Aydin has received his fair share since the sleek Italian restaurant arrived from New York in 2019. So when the man in charge of running the Dubai branch of the two Michelin-starred restaurant recommends a Fujairah Italian spot, diners should listen up.
“Sapore, which is also in the same hotel as Gonu, serves excellent Italian food,” he says. “For me, you can’t beat a simple margarita pizza, and Sapore’s is incredible.”
Arabian traditions thrive in two roadside RAK restaurants
Visitors and residents in Ras Al Khaimah have a wealth of Middle East foodie destinations to choose from. But when deciding the best, Naser is split between two.
Eshhafan Fareej, in Al Dhait South, is a charming, no-frills destination with a focus on tradition. “It’s just a great spot for authentic Arabic cuisine and the desserts everyone knows and loves,” he says. “Some of the best dishes include the sayadieh, machboos, rose sago and luqaimat.
“The restaurant itself is beautiful and champions traditional decor.”
Fighting for the position of top Mena restaurant is Weza, also in Al Dhait South, where Egyptian classics are served exactly as they have been for centuries. “I go to order the exact three things, because they are delicious: the kebda eskandarany, the stuffed pigeon and the traditional koshari. It’s an Egyptian staple and it’s very good.
“The colourful decor and interesting photography adorning the walls deserve a special mention.”
10 top restaurants in Abu Dhabi, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah
- Bandung, Al Zahiyah, Abu Dhabi
- Golden Spoon, Madinat Zayed, Abu Dhabi
- Russian House Kitchen, Al Markayizah, Abu Dhabi
- Saigon House, Madinat Zayed, Abu Dhabi
- Gonu Bar & Grill, Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort, Fujairah
- Rashfat Mahar, Hamzah Al Kufi St, Fujairah
- Kabab Al Bastakiah, Rugaylat Road, Fujairah
- Sapore, Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort, Fujairah
- Eshhafan Fareej, Al Dhait South, Ras Al Khaimah
- Weza, Al Dhait South, Ras Al Khaimah
Springtime in a Broken Mirror,
Mario Benedetti, Penguin Modern Classics
TECH%20SPECS%3A%20APPLE%20WATCH%20SERIES%208
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDisplay%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2041mm%2C%20352%20x%20430%3B%2045mm%2C%20396%20x%20484%3B%20Retina%20LTPO%20OLED%2C%20up%20to%201000%20nits%2C%20always-on%3B%20Ion-X%20glass%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EProcessor%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Apple%20S8%2C%20W3%20wireless%2C%20U1%20ultra-wideband%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECapacity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2032GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMemory%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%201GB%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPlatform%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20watchOS%209%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EHealth%20metrics%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203rd-gen%20heart%20rate%20sensor%2C%20temperature%20sensing%2C%20ECG%2C%20blood%20oxygen%2C%20workouts%2C%20fall%2Fcrash%20detection%3B%20emergency%20SOS%2C%20international%20emergency%20calling%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EConnectivity%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20GPS%2FGPS%20%2B%20cellular%3B%20Wi-Fi%2C%20LTE%2C%20Bluetooth%205.3%2C%20NFC%20(Apple%20Pay)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDurability%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20IP6X%2C%20water%20resistant%20up%20to%2050m%2C%20dust%20resistant%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBattery%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20308mAh%20Li-ion%2C%20up%20to%2018h%2C%20wireless%20charging%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECards%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20eSIM%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFinishes%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Aluminium%20%E2%80%93%20midnight%2C%20Product%20Red%2C%20silver%2C%20starlight%3B%20stainless%20steel%20%E2%80%93%20gold%2C%20graphite%2C%20silver%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIn%20the%20box%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Watch%20Series%208%2C%20magnetic-to-USB-C%20charging%20cable%2C%20band%2Floop%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Starts%20at%20Dh1%2C599%20(41mm)%20%2F%20Dh1%2C999%20(45mm)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
New UK refugee system
- A new “core protection” for refugees moving from permanent to a more basic, temporary protection
- Shortened leave to remain - refugees will receive 30 months instead of five years
- A longer path to settlement with no indefinite settled status until a refugee has spent 20 years in Britain
- To encourage refugees to integrate the government will encourage them to out of the core protection route wherever possible.
- Under core protection there will be no automatic right to family reunion
- Refugees will have a reduced right to public funds
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Conflict, drought, famine
Estimates of the number of deaths caused by the famine range from 400,000 to 1 million, according to a document prepared for the UK House of Lords in 2024.
It has been claimed that the policies of the Ethiopian government, which took control after deposing Emperor Haile Selassie in a military-led revolution in 1974, contributed to the scale of the famine.
Dr Miriam Bradley, senior lecturer in humanitarian studies at the University of Manchester, has argued that, by the early 1980s, “several government policies combined to cause, rather than prevent, a famine which lasted from 1983 to 1985. Mengistu’s government imposed Stalinist-model agricultural policies involving forced collectivisation and villagisation [relocation of communities into planned villages].
The West became aware of the catastrophe through a series of BBC News reports by journalist Michael Buerk in October 1984 describing a “biblical famine” and containing graphic images of thousands of people, including children, facing starvation.
Band Aid
Bob Geldof, singer with the Irish rock group The Boomtown Rats, formed Band Aid in response to the horrific images shown in the news broadcasts.
With Midge Ure of the band Ultravox, he wrote the hit charity single Do They Know it’s Christmas in December 1984, featuring a string of high-profile musicians.
Following the single’s success, the idea to stage a rock concert evolved.
Live Aid was a series of simultaneous concerts that took place at Wembley Stadium in London, John F Kennedy Stadium in Philadelphia, the US, and at various other venues across the world.
The combined event was broadcast to an estimated worldwide audience of 1.5 billion.
Results:
6.30pm: Maiden Dh165,000 2,000m - Winner: Powderhouse, Sam Hitchcott (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer)
7.05pm: Handicap Dh165,000 2,200m - Winner: Heraldic, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar
7.40pm: Conditions Dh240,000 1,600m - Winner: Walking Thunder, Connor Beasley, Ahmed bin Harmash
8.15pm: Handicap Dh190,000 2,000m - Winner: Key Bid, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe
8.50pm: The Garhoud Sprint Listed Dh265,000 1,200m - Winner: Drafted, Sam Hitchcott, Doug Watson
9.25pm: Handicap Dh170,000 1,600m - Winner: Cachao, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar
10pm: Handicap Dh190,000 1,400m - Winner: Rodaini, Connor Beasley, Ahmed bin Harmash
Director: Laxman Utekar
Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna
Rating: 1/5
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
The biog
Favourite hobby: taking his rescue dog, Sally, for long walks.
Favourite book: anything by Stephen King, although he said the films rarely match the quality of the books
Favourite film: The Shawshank Redemption stands out as his favourite movie, a classic King novella
Favourite music: “I have a wide and varied music taste, so it would be unfair to pick a single song from blues to rock as a favourite"
The biog
Favourite films: Casablanca and Lawrence of Arabia
Favourite books: Start with Why by Simon Sinek and Good to be Great by Jim Collins
Favourite dish: Grilled fish
Inspiration: Sheikh Zayed's visionary leadership taught me to embrace new challenges.
Sly%20Cooper%20and%20the%20Thievius%20Raccoonus
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDeveloper%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Sucker%20Punch%20Productions%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Sony%20Computer%20Entertainment%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EConsole%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20PlayStation%202%20to%205%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%205%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
- Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000
- Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000
- Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000
- Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000
- HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000
- Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000
- Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000
- Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000
- Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000
- Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000
- Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000
- Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
- Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
- Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
Marathon results
Men:
1. Titus Ekiru(KEN) 2:06:13
2. Alphonce Simbu(TAN) 2:07:50
3. Reuben Kipyego(KEN) 2:08:25
4. Abel Kirui(KEN) 2:08:46
5. Felix Kemutai(KEN) 2:10:48
Women:
1. Judith Korir(KEN) 2:22:30
2. Eunice Chumba(BHR) 2:26:01
3. Immaculate Chemutai(UGA) 2:28:30
4. Abebech Bekele(ETH) 2:29:43
5. Aleksandra Morozova(RUS) 2:33:01
Stats at a glance:
Cost: 1.05 billion pounds (Dh 4.8 billion)
Number in service: 6
Complement 191 (space for up to 285)
Top speed: over 32 knots
Range: Over 7,000 nautical miles
Length 152.4 m
Displacement: 8,700 tonnes
Beam: 21.2 m
Draught: 7.4 m
Our legal columnist
Name: Yousef Al Bahar
Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994
Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers
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Visit Abu Dhabi culinary team's top Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi
Yadoo’s House Restaurant & Cafe
For the karak and Yoodo's house platter with includes eggs, balaleet, khamir and chebab bread.
Golden Dallah
For the cappuccino, luqaimat and aseeda.
Al Mrzab Restaurant
For the shrimp murabian and Kuwaiti options including Kuwaiti machboos with kebab and spicy sauce.
Al Derwaza
For the fish hubul, regag bread, biryani and special seafood soup.