New York Fashion Week has always prided itself on being an incubator of new talent, and that was particularly true on day three of this season’s event. After the pizzazz and excess of the previous day’s Jeremy Scott show, day three was an altogether calmer affair, choosing to give time to smaller, more niche labels that might otherwise be overlooked.
Christian Siriano showed on the waterfront at Pier 59, with guests Vanessa Williams and Orange Is The New Black actor Daniel Brooks in attendance. When it finally got going, the show was opened by Coco Rocha in a cerise-pink catsuit, followed by a procession of rainbow-coloured looks that flowed from green florals against a blue background, through to primrose yellow and on to metallic suiting in buttermilk and lilac.
The show really hit its stride with huge skirted gowns that felt ladylike yet renewed - in particular a dress that had all the weight of the skirt centred at the back, creating a semi bustle. The vast skirts and trailing gowns then segued into black mesh suits and dresses, which heralded the arrival on stage of the first of a series of plus-size models, drawing a cheer of delight from the audience
Jonathan Simkha, meanwhile, offered a deeply romantic collection, characterised by its asymmetry. Shirting dresses with bound waists moved in to knit bodysuits in nude or midnight blue. Complex construction saw oversize broderie anglaise, appliqué laces and nude pleating used for dresses to create a soft vintage feel.
A genteel palette of faded creams and cornflower blues created an antique mood, while the vaguely pre-Raphaelite hair, swept up and off the face, made it all feel a little ethereal.