Why Dushanbe?
The capital of the Republic of Tajikistan, and also its largest city with a population of 750,000, Dushanbe is located on the western side of the country, not far from the border with Uzbekistan. The city’s name means “Monday” in the local language, Tajik, referring to the fact that the city grew from a village with a popular market that used to be held on Mondays.
Over the past decade, Dushanbe has been steadily recovering from the six-year civil conflict that erupted just one year after Tajikistan’s independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Today, thanks to its wide avenues, green spaces and eye-catching monuments and buildings, Dushanbe is considered by many to be one of Central Asia’s prettiest capital cities.
If you’re spending a few days in Dushanbe, you might want to consider a day trip to the nearby mountains. Tajikistan is a predominantly mountainous country and its dramatic landscape is beloved by fans of adventure travel. With a height of about 6,600 metres, Mount Garmo, in the Pamirs, is the highest mountain peak of the former Soviet Union.
A comfortable bed
Hyatt Regency Dushanbe (www.dushanbe.regency.hyatt.com; 00992 48 702 1234) is a luxury five-star hotel located in the heart of the city, next to Lake Komsomol. Many of the 201 rooms and suites offer views of the surrounding mountains; others overlook the lake and the newly built tea house Throne of Nawruz. The hotel's spa and dining facilities are popular among Dushanbe's business elite. Double rooms from about 1,125 Tajikistani somoni [Dh831] per night.
The 16-bed Yeti Hostel (www.yetihostel.com; 00992 98 736 0004) is located seven kilometres from the city centre. It's managed by the owners of Orom Travel, an agency that organises tours in Dushanbe as well as trips around Tajikistan. From US$15 [Dh55] per night.
Find your feet
Stroll around Rudaki Park to see some of Dushanbe’s prettiest monuments, including the Statue of Rudaki, the poet considered the founder of modern Persian literature, and the world’s tallest free-standing flagpole (165 metres) carrying a 30-metre by 60-metre flag of Tajikistan. Plenty of fountains and flowers make the park a true oasis in the middle of the city.
Dushanbe’s liveliest street is Rudaki Avenue, where you’ll pass many of the city’s most important government buildings, as well as cafes and restaurants to grab something to eat or drink. Just off the western side of the avenue, you’ll also find Dushanbe’s Grand Mosque.
The other main street in Dushanbe is Ismoil Somoni Avenue, which is named after the founder of the 10th-century Samanid dynasty, the first native Persian dynasty. There are several eateries lining the avenue, as well as numerous individual sellers of Tajik bread. Midway down the street, there’s a bazaar selling fresh produce and household goods.
Meet the locals
During the summer months, families and friends enjoy a swim in the city centre’s scenic Lake Komsomol. The simple, yet very colourful amusement park right next to it is a favourite among families with kids.
Book a table
For traditional Tajik cuisine, head to the Rohat Teahouse, which is a very large, two-floor restaurant with impressive interiors, located on Rudaki Avenue. Although the staff don’t speak English, dishes on the menu are explained in English as well as Tajik. The restaurant’s speciality salad costs 9 somoni (Dh7), while a generous basket of bread will only set you back 2 somoni (Dh1).
Segafredo Zanetti Espresso Café is Dushanbe’s poshest coffee shop and serves a range of hot and cold coffee specialities, mocktails, snacks and dishes for a quick lunch. It has an outdoor terrace in the summer. A cappuccino costs 12 somoni (Dh9); a portion of mushroom julienne (mushrooms, onion, cheese, butter) is 22 somoni (Dh16), and toast with a choice of different fillings costs between 16 and 19 somoni (Dh12 to Dh14).
If you’re craving some western-style fast food, you’ll find it at New York Fried Chicken, which also serves deep-pan pizzas (24 to 33 somoni [Dh18 to Dh24]) and wraps (7 to 11 somoni [Dh5 to Dh8]).
Shopper’s paradise
Noor Art Shop sells a wide range of contemporary local art and craftwork: paintings, jewellery and glassware. The artists and designers represented are all based in Dushanbe, yet come from different regions of Tajikistan – a geographic diversity that’s reflected in their artistic creations.
What to avoid
Not all taxis in Dushanbe are completely reliable, as some drivers have a sneaky tendency to charge foreigners higher-than-normal prices. To avoid disappointment, one recommended taxi-service provider is Asian Express (www.asian-express-airline.com).
Don’t miss
Following eight years of construction work, the Throne of Nawruz has just opened – it’s the largest tea house of its kind. The majestic building is an event-and-leisure venue featuring – among other things – ballrooms with hand-painted ceilings and carved wooden doors.
Go there
FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) flies from Dubai to Dushanbe twice a week. A return flight costs about Dh2,200, including taxes. The taxi fare from the airport to the city centre should cost about 30 somoni (Dh22).
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