Why Philadelphia?
Halfway between New York and Washington sits Philadelphia, a city often overshadowed by its east-coast neighbours. Earning the nickname “America’s birthplace” after the country’s independence was declared on July 4, 1776, the city is bathed in a rich history, blessed with a string of world-class museums, architectural landmarks and jazz venues and probably the best cheesesteaks in the world. There isn’t a better time to visit, with the Thanksgiving Day Parade (
), the oldest of its kind and now in its 94th year, coming up on November 28.
A comfortable bed
If you want to be at the centre of the city’s rich past, it doesn’t get any better than The Monaco Kimpton Hotel (
; 001 215 925 2111), with its welcoming rooftop lounge overlooking the Liberty Bell Center (
www.nps.gov/inde/liberty-bell-center.htm
) and proximity to Independence National Historic Park (
). King deluxe rooms come as standard from US$339 (Dh1,245) per night.
The Spruce Hill Manor (
; 001 215 472 2213) is a more homely bed-and-breakfast stay. The 1879 Victorian mansion, based in the University City neighbourhood, is all stately gardens, stunning stained-glass windows and antique furnishings. It’s the perfect pit stop for art buffs looking to explore the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which is a 10-minute drive away. Double rooms cost from $165 (Dh606), including breakfast.
Find your feet
If you only have time to walk down one street in Philly, the stretch of South Street between Front Street and 7th Street would be it. This street is one of the biggest tourist attractions – known for its bohemia, bars and bargains – and Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens (
; 001 215 733 0390) is a particular highlight, thanks to the award-winning mosaic mural artist, Isaiah Zagar, who has created more than 100 mosaics around the city. While locals will tells you that it’s not the best cheesesteak establishment by any means, Jim’s Steaks (
; 001 215 928 1911) is a rite of passage for many a visitor. Photographs of stars feasting in its humble diner surroundings adorn the walls. Culture vultures, meanwhile, should make a trip to the Avenue of the Arts, which starts at Broad and Locust streets and runs south on Broad to Lombard Street. Known for its thriving theatre district, several of the city’s biggest theatres are here, including the world-famous Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts (
; 001 215 790 5800), which is also home to the Philadelphia Orchestra.
Meet the locals
A great spot for people-watching is Sam’s Morning Glory Diner (
; 001 215 413 3999). It often feels like the whole city is here for brunch on the weekends, so don’t be surprised if you have to queue for a table. It’s worth the wait – whether it’s a salmon frittata, a breakfast pizza or a tofu scrambler that tickles your fancy, expect generous portions and to leave with a box of leftovers.
Book a table
Laurel (
; 001 215 271 8299) is the hottest ticket in town right now, after opening earlier this month in the super-hip restaurant district of East Passyunk Avenue. The owner-chef Nicholas Elmi combines fine dining with a French-American twist in an intimate yet casual space. A three-course meal starts from $43 (Dh158). South Philadelphia Taproom (
www.southphiladelphiataproom.com
; 001 215 271 7787) celebrated its 10th anniversary recently and it’s one of the city’s original gastropubs. Its long-lasting appeal lies in its understated approach to superb, home-cooked food that makes the most of local produce. The Salisbury steak stands out on the mains menu and will set you back $17 (Dh62). If you find yourself hankering after sophisticated Italian-American classics like eggplant Parmesan, braciole and Sunday gravy (that’s South Philly talk for tomato and meat sauce), then visit Little Nonna’s (
; 001 215 546 2100) in Midtown Village. The grilled swordfish piccata might just be the best $22 (Dh81) you will ever spend.
Shopper’s paradise
The city is a treasure trove for independent shopping fans. First stop: Northern Liberties, especially along 2nd and 3rd streets. If it’s eco-chic clobber that you’re after, visit Arcadia Boutique (
; 001 215 667 8099). For the cutest bling in town, call into Millésimé (
; 001 267 455 0374), the high-design concept store, selling everything from Lille’s Lena Klax’s gold bear necklaces to Tina Lilienthal’s quirky skull designs.
Don’t miss
The Mütter Museum (
www.collegeofphysicians.org/mutter-museum
; 001 215 563 3737), described as “America’s finest museum of medical history”, is like no other museum that you’ve ever been to. Prepare to be fascinated by the plaster death-cast of the torso and conjoined livers of the Siamese twins Chang and Eng, tissue from the thorax of John Wilkes Booth (the assassin of President Lincoln) and the tallest skeleton currently on display in North America.
What to avoid
Walking around at night. Stay away from deserted areas and be discreet with your valuables.
Go there
British Airways (
) flies to Philadelphia via London. The journey time is about 21 hours and return flights cost from Dh4,625, including taxes. Alternatively, fly direct to New York with Etihad (
) and take an Amtrak train (
) which takes between 75 and 90 minutes and costs from $78 (Dh286) return, including taxes.
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