Why Madrid?
Madrid doesn’t have the extensive history of many major European cities – it was a rather bizarre, backwater-ish choice for the Spanish capital in 1561. But it does have a pulsating energy that few can get close to.
Unless coming for the art – and Madrid does this better than pretty much any city on Earth – or the Real Madrid football experience, the appeal doesn’t lie in specific attractions.
Often impressive without stepping into beautiful, Madrid’s allure truly kicks in after the sun goes down. The streets – particularly in the Huertas, La Latina, Chueca and Malasaña areas – hum with people hopping between seemingly thousands of tiny restaurants and tapas bars, all of which have their own very distinctive character. Not bothering with sleep always seems a great temptation.
A comfortable bed
The Hotel Urban (0034 917 877 770) combines dazzling architecture with an extraordinary collection of artefacts from as far afield as ancient Egypt, Cambodia and Papua New Guinea. It's museum meets accommodation, pulling it off with memorable panache. Rooms cost from €182 (Dh749).
If you're travelling with kids, the Splendom Suites Gran Vía (0034 915 319 068) does the well-equipped aparthotel thing brilliantly. The first-floor games room with mini-pool table is a bonus. Apartments cost from €120 (Dh494).
On a budget, La Pepa Chic B&B (0034 648 474 742) is fantastically located in the buzzy Huertas. It's brushed with just enough personal charm – such as headboards made from old doors and children's shoes – to make it interesting as well as great value. Doubles cost from €61 (Dh251).
Find your feet
Start at the Royal Palace (0034 914 548 700) – a bulky, flair-free piece of gigantism from the outside, but with interior decoration of such unrestrained knockout bravado you can't help but be won over. The throne room, in particular, is ludicrous.
From there, amble through the city, admiring some wedding-cake-esque Habsburg-era buildings before arriving in the gorgeously grand Plaza Mayor. Continue west for the best trio of art museums in any city in the world: the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofia.
Of these, the Prado (0034 913 302 800) is the biggest hitter, especially strong on Goya and Velázquez. But the Reina Sofia (0034 917 741 000) has Picasso's masterwork, Guernica, and a notable Dalí selection.
Meet the locals
Madrid’s two great parks offer very different experiences. The vast Casa Del Campo is wilder and more peaceful when you find your own quiet corner, while El Retiro is primped, showy and made for promenading. It’s a family favourite, too – with the rowboats on the artificial lake particularly popular.
Book a table
El Botín (0034 913 664 217) is regarded as the oldest restaurant in the world by Guinness World Records, and has been serving since 1725. It milks this, but still has the gorgeous tile paintings and quality, traditional, hearty dishes, such as suckling lamb, that have made it a good choice for so long. Mains cost about €18 (Dh74).
La Carmencita (0034 915 310 911), in Chueca, is an excellent find. There's a homely vibe, and the menus impeccably list where ingredients are sourced from. Expect the likes of pimientos rellenos – piquillo peppers stuffed with veal stew – from €16 (Dh70).
Shopper’s paradise
Flea markets don’t get much bigger than El Rastro, which spreads out along the Plaza de Cascorro and Ribera de Curtidores between 9am and 3pm every Sunday and public holiday. There can be up to 3,500 stalls, although while there’s the occasional nugget worth investing in, it’s as much about the experience and atmosphere.
Salamanca is the well-heeled neighbourhood where the bulk of the international labels and Spanish designers are found. Chueca, next door, has a more indie fashion feel.
What to avoid
A lot of guided half-day tours – particularly to Real Madrid’s Bernabeu stadium – take you round in a bus to places that are much easier to get to by public transport. It’s worth checking the itinerary to see how much time-wasting it’s padded with.
Don’t miss
Madrid comes alive at night, and the best way to experience it is crawling between tapas bars. Calle de Cava Baja is arguably the prime strip for this, although you can’t go too far wrong in Chueca either.
The issue is that there are so many options, it's hard to know which are the good ones. Therefore, the tapas tours with Madrid Food Tour (0034 695 111 832) are a handy introduction, guaranteeing guests at least 12 tapas from different parts of Spain to eat throughout the evening. There's also a bit of history thrown in, with the tours costing €95 (Dh391).
Getting there
Direct flights with Emirates and Etihad cost from Dh3,045 return including taxes.
