Lebanon's international music festivals kicked off at the weekend with a performance in the Roman ruins of Baalbek, the first performance there since the country's economic crisis.
At a performance titled Baalbeck Evenings, the return, held as part of the Baalbeck International Festival, conductor Lubnan Baalbaki — whose first name means "Lebanon" and whose last name means "from Baalbek" ― led the orchestra on Friday night alongside his sister, singer Soumaya.
The country once held several music festivals every summer, drawing international acts every weekend. This year, the modest reopenings feature almost exclusively Lebanese performers.
Members of the audience in Baalbek swayed and sang along as Soumaya crooned Arabic tunes on a stage set up inside the Temple of Bacchus, her silver gown glittering under the spotlights.
She performed traditional ballads as well as original songs written by Lebanese poets and scored by her brother.
For many, the evening was a welcome escape from the crises that have hit Lebanon over the past three years.
A financial meltdown described by the World Bank as one of the worst since the Industrial Revolution has led to rampant power cuts and medicine shortages across the country.
The Lebanese people have been further strained by the Beirut port blast of 2020 and several waves of the coronavirus pandemic.
"This is an exceptional day," Soumaya told Reuters after the performance. "Despite all the difficulties that have shadowed our work, we put on this festival. It's an act of defiance — an act of faith in this country, in its image as a nation of art, culture and soft power that generates change."
It was her first-ever performance in her namesake city. Her brother last performed there in 2019, only months before Lebanon's collapse began.
"Music and arts were the most hard-hit by the coronavirus pandemic. Artists were the first to stop working and the last to return. This moment is so important for musicians and on a nationwide level," said Lubnan.
"The crisis has pushed us to return to Lebanese talent and real Lebanese voices. Tonight, Soumaya's performance on the stage in Baalbek reminded us how important and refined our musical culture is," said Micheline Abi Samra, a member of the audience.
"We were so happy and the coming days will be even better," she told Reuters.
Coming acts at the Baalbeck festival include Lebanese rock band Adonis, French-Lebanese pianist Simon Ghraichy, and Iranian dancer Rana Gorgani.
"We are living through very difficult circumstances and very dark days," said journalist Ricardo Karam, who attended the Baalbakis' performance on Friday. "They made them beautiful, they made them vibrant."
Notable salonnières of the Middle East through history
Al Khasan (Okaz, Saudi Arabia)
Tamadir bint Amr Al Harith, known simply as Al Khasan, was a poet from Najd famed for elegies, earning great renown for the eulogy of her brothers Mu’awiyah and Sakhr, both killed in tribal wars. Although not a salonnière, this prestigious 7th century poet fostered a culture of literary criticism and could be found standing in the souq of Okaz and reciting her poetry, publicly pronouncing her views and inviting others to join in the debate on scholarship. She later converted to Islam.
Maryana Marrash (Aleppo)
A poet and writer, Marrash helped revive the tradition of the salon and was an active part of the Nadha movement, or Arab Renaissance. Born to an established family in Aleppo in Ottoman Syria in 1848, Marrash was educated at missionary schools in Aleppo and Beirut at a time when many women did not receive an education. After touring Europe, she began to host salons where writers played chess and cards, competed in the art of poetry, and discussed literature and politics. An accomplished singer and canon player, music and dancing were a part of these evenings.
Princess Nazil Fadil (Cairo)
Princess Nazil Fadil gathered religious, literary and political elite together at her Cairo palace, although she stopped short of inviting women. The princess, a niece of Khedive Ismail, believed that Egypt’s situation could only be solved through education and she donated her own property to help fund the first modern Egyptian University in Cairo.
Mayy Ziyadah (Cairo)
Ziyadah was the first to entertain both men and women at her Cairo salon, founded in 1913. The writer, poet, public speaker and critic, her writing explored language, religious identity, language, nationalism and hierarchy. Born in Nazareth, Palestine, to a Lebanese father and Palestinian mother, her salon was open to different social classes and earned comparisons with souq of where Al Khansa herself once recited.
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