Moroccan artist Hind Ennaira, a female member of a traditional Gnaoua band, performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP
Moroccan artist Hind Ennaira, a female member of a traditional Gnaoua band, performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP
Moroccan artist Hind Ennaira, a female member of a traditional Gnaoua band, performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP
Moroccan artist Hind Ennaira, a female member of a traditional Gnaoua band, performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP

Moroccan women shake up world of Gnaoua music


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Young Moroccan women are bringing new and inclusive energy to the centuries-old art of Gnaoua, a spiritual musical repertoire traditionally reserved for men.

Also known as tagnaouite, it gained worldwide recognition after it was listed by Unesco as intangible cultural heritage in 2019.

"Why shouldn't women be part of this dynamic?" asked Asma Hamzaoui at the Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira, a southern coastal city steeped in the musical tradition.

The artist, 26, from Casablanca, is one of the first women to perform Gnaoua, which blends African rhythms with spiritual chants and poetry.

  • Hind Ennaira performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira, Morocco. All Photos: AFP
    Hind Ennaira performs during the 24th Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira, Morocco. All Photos: AFP
  • Members of traditional Gnaoua bands performing during the event
    Members of traditional Gnaoua bands performing during the event
  • Moroccans and tourists from all over the world attend the event
    Moroccans and tourists from all over the world attend the event
  • A packed audience at the festival
    A packed audience at the festival
  • A high-octane performance on stage
    A high-octane performance on stage
  • A delighted member of the audience at the festival
    A delighted member of the audience at the festival
  • The Gnaoua World Music Festival was making a return after a hiatus due to the Covid pandemic
    The Gnaoua World Music Festival was making a return after a hiatus due to the Covid pandemic
  • A performer on stage at the event
    A performer on stage at the event
  • Moroccan artist Asma Hamzaoui performing during the festival
    Moroccan artist Asma Hamzaoui performing during the festival

Her father, a Gnaoua master, initiated her into the artform at a young age.

"I've accompanied him to his evening gatherings since I was seven years old," recounted the young woman, who in 2012 formed the group Bnat Timbouktou, the Girls of Timbuktu.

"I gradually learned to play the guembri, a three-stringed lute made of camel skin. My father made sure that I learned as much as possible before I flew solo."

The all-female ensemble wowed the festival-goers – with Hamzaoui on vocals and the guembri, and four musicians on qraqeb steel castanets.

They played alongside the Amazones d'Afrique, another all-female group, from Mali.

'Feeds the spirit'

"It's exceptional to have women playing Gnaoua music, which shouldn't be reserved for men," said Hamza Tahir, a member of the audience. "They bring fresh air into this music."

Inspired by Bnat Timbouktou's success, rising star Hind Ennaira developed her passion for tagnaouite in her home town of Essaouira.

Its fortified citadel on the Atlantic coast is a breeding ground for the mystical musical tradition, in which religious hymns invoke ancestors and spirits.

Originally practised by enslaved people and dating back at least to the 16th century, Gnaoua has gone from being played largely in private gatherings, where therapeutic rituals accompanied the music, to public events such as concerts and festivals.

"The city of Essaouira is the cradle of tagnaouite," said Ennaira, who was taught to play the guembri by friends. "It is beautiful heritage that feeds the spirit. It is important for young people to value it."

Ennaira put her own touch on the tradition by bringing in a guitarist and drummer to accompany the traditional ensemble.

"At first, there were some differences because they were not used to working with a woman," she said. "But after some challenging exercises, they adapted to me and we became complementary."

Jimi Hendrix style

Yousra Mansour – the front woman of the band Bab L'bluz, The Blues Gate, which fuses Gnaoua, rock and blues – also encountered challenges entering the music scene.

Asma Hamzaoui, a member of the band Bnat Timbouktou, at the Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP
Asma Hamzaoui, a member of the band Bnat Timbouktou, at the Gnaoua World Music Festival in Essaouira. AFP

"There were two constraints for me: first, the fact that this field is usually reserved for men, but also how we interpret traditional music," the musician said.

"It is not very accepted or even tolerated by some of the stricter individuals.

"We replaced the bass with the guembri and the guitar with the awisha (a small guembri) and created a kind of 'power trio' in the style of Jimi Hendrix with reimagined traditional instruments," explained Mansour.

The vocalist, 32, passionately defends women's freedoms, saying that "as a woman, I have not had an easy life".

"There was a lack of women in this field. When I see Asma Hamzaoui or Hind Ennaira, they are magnificent," she said.

"It is not easy to evolve in a predominantly male universe, but we see changes emerging."

Updated: July 10, 2023, 7:16 AM