Zoe Modern Greek Kouzina flung open its doors in the picturesque Marsa Al Bateen in December, 2021, overlooking the Abu Dhabi Edition hotel and the yachts berthed in the marina beyond.
The restaurant is decked out in crisp whites and varying shades of azure blue. I’ve never been to Greece, but sitting on the terrace in the sun, by the water’s edge, and focusing on feeling those blues, conjured up a slice of Santorini.
Whether or not you’re transported to the Greek isle, there’s no denying the effort that has been put into the elegant venue to fit the theme. The sprawling mural inside, with its bright and uplifting colours, plus the gold accents and bougainvillaeas that line the perimeters inside and out, all serve to make the restaurant feel full of life, which is no accident, given “life” is what its name translates to from the Greek.
Being there with friends and their two small children added to that sense of vibrancy and, with their innocent honesty, the little ones were also perhaps the best judges of the food. And they were in their element.
What to expect and where to sit
By far the most attractive space to sit was on the sprawling terrace, which overlooks the aforementioned marina. At night, when the lights flicked on, the setting became all the more spectacular. Even on a warm summer's night, the view may well be worth it.
The space inside is minimal, with a few tables lining the edges. And while the striking mural and colourful plants brighten things up, the concrete floor and white furniture make the atmosphere feel a little sterile. So outdoors it was and a high chair was brought out for the toddler, making the space nicely family-friendly, too.
The menu
The list features a wide variety of dishes, with the classics all present and perfectly cooked by chef Anthony Pelea and his team. These include spanakopita spinach and feta pie (Dh38), Greek salad (Dh43), a souvlaki platter (Dh150), tzatziki (Dh28), taramasalata (Dh38) and moussaka (Dh68) – including a welcome vegan option (Dh61).
We were brought a selection of three dips (Dh55) to start – a zingy and refreshing tzatziki, a fava bean dip topped with sauteed onions and roasted tomatoes, and the melitzanosalata, a grilled aubergine dip full of smoky flavour offset by the natural sweetness of the vegetable. These went down a treat with all guests and were a delicious introduction to the menu.
Next up was the Greek salad – cherry tomatoes, cucumber, onion and olives, with barrel-aged feta crumbled over the top. The sweet, refreshing vegetables, combined with the complexity of the salty cheese made this dish so much more than a simple side. Along with the moussaka (more on that later) the flavours packed a punch.
The pastitsio croquette starter (Dh47) was another crowd-pleaser, and a favourite with my eight-year-old guest, being a deep-fried parcel of pasta and meat swimming in a rich, sweet tomato sauce. It was a wonderfully indulgent dish.
We ended the meal with bougatsa (Dh46), a creamy vanilla custard baked in crispy sheets of filo pastry. It was served with an inventive cinnamon ice cream and rounded off what was easily one of the best meals we’ve had in Abu Dhabi. The verdict of our two-year-old guest? “Yummy, yummy in my tummy.”
I couldn't agree more.
Stand-out dish
By far the winner of the night was the moussaka, both versions. The silky aubergines were perfectly cooked with the deeply flavourful and rich beef ragout complementing the vegetable's flavour and texture. It was comfort food at its purest – a gooey mix of meet and veg, heightened by a wickedly decadent, creamy bechamel.
The vegan rendition had a completely different flavour profile, with a brighter and more vibrant taste. It had a tang to it, as well as a powerful depth of flavour coming from the garlicky mushroom ragout. A layer of fried potatoes with the sweet and smoky grilled aubergines made it feel like an ample main. A creamy vegan bechamel gave it that comforting edge, while the toasted panko breadcrumb topping provided a lovely contrast of texture.
A chat with the chef
Head chef Pelea was born and raised in the Philippines, and has worked for such renowned brands as Hyatt, Fairmont and Etihad. He has been with Zoe from the beginning. His cooking style, he says, is “traditional, home-cooked meals prepared with classic French techniques”, and his mantra is that “good, quality ingredients paired with strong cooking technique will always be a recipe for success”.
He also can’t recommend the moussaka, especially the vegan rendition, highly enough. He guides meat lovers to the souvlaki platter, while seafood lovers, he says, will enjoy the shrimp saganaki and grilled octopus: “My personal favourites that remind me of my travels to the Greek Cyclades islands,” he says.
Price point and contact information
Dips cost from Dh26 to Dh34, with the three-dip option priced at Dh55, while starters range from Dh37 to Dh71. Mains cost from Dh61 to Dh150 and desserts go for Dh32 to Dh46, with a scoop of ice cream at Dh12.
Zoe is open from noon to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday, and noon to midnight on Friday and Saturday. Reservations can be made by calling 052 921 3823.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
