![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/2AGH53H7LRBNFIXXNT4RF6L7CE.jpg?smart=true&auth=d45be2afb759ea11dbf5ca91282e1ceaa4c61245982bda879754e5c57c023581&width=400&height=225)
Hela Bojun Halas are popular with women and men alike.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/JNK2WCLEUFAOVPTE3K67PH5MFY.jpg?smart=true&auth=439d0789e34675b63b21dd6d0366fb68d3bba1d81c553b29c2007beb33f2fdc0&width=400&height=225)
Local women run the kitchen at Sri Lanka's roadside restaurants, called Hela Bojoun Hala, or 'traditional food court'. All photos: Meenakshi J
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/4IMRC6ZLEVDSFCOSB3AK2UTLOA.jpg?smart=true&auth=9f76fbb73c543667b6975bd0a4b60511573414390885d7561e64022af09c0185&width=400&height=225)
The eateries, which serve traditional dishes, are nearly always full.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/ZR6NSWDOZZDTZANK6HTUEVIXWA.jpeg?smart=true&auth=abf34a0eb26507f9b2b7696d44e0a19bea85c3d2e87297fa47683a5e798652b3&width=400&height=225)
One of the traditional dishes is aasmi, a deep-fried sweet snack made with rice flour and coconut milk, which is rarely served in contemporary restaurants.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/L2PK7XFTCRBFDFZCNSICLGGRRQ.jpeg?smart=true&auth=a20530090f6f79e7be063fd8b8d321a58f873e3cb1265ea82f26e7acd0aefde0&width=400&height=225)
Traditional Ceylon tea with jaggery.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/H7FP37R4R5AQDHZPCAFA6CAJZI.jpeg?smart=true&auth=5b334b8053f70067862b121c2807b10964aa436c1e37d2d8aff61987df5bf3c2&width=400&height=225)
Fried jaggery-coated dal snacks.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/PXSPSAUCIJCW5N2KE4MSUNUDHI.jpeg?smart=true&auth=b4de88903e22b92f09da1a3d8f22c138737852cd6719f0fbd910d4c602ed9506&width=400&height=225)
A Sinhala sweet made from jaggery.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/2AGH53H7LRBNFIXXNT4RF6L7CE.jpg?smart=true&auth=d45be2afb759ea11dbf5ca91282e1ceaa4c61245982bda879754e5c57c023581&width=400&height=225)
Hela Bojun Halas are popular with women and men alike.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/JNK2WCLEUFAOVPTE3K67PH5MFY.jpg?smart=true&auth=439d0789e34675b63b21dd6d0366fb68d3bba1d81c553b29c2007beb33f2fdc0&width=400&height=225)
Local women run the kitchen at Sri Lanka's roadside restaurants, called Hela Bojoun Hala, or 'traditional food court'. All photos: Meenakshi J
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/4IMRC6ZLEVDSFCOSB3AK2UTLOA.jpg?smart=true&auth=9f76fbb73c543667b6975bd0a4b60511573414390885d7561e64022af09c0185&width=400&height=225)
The eateries, which serve traditional dishes, are nearly always full.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/ZR6NSWDOZZDTZANK6HTUEVIXWA.jpeg?smart=true&auth=abf34a0eb26507f9b2b7696d44e0a19bea85c3d2e87297fa47683a5e798652b3&width=400&height=225)
One of the traditional dishes is aasmi, a deep-fried sweet snack made with rice flour and coconut milk, which is rarely served in contemporary restaurants.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/L2PK7XFTCRBFDFZCNSICLGGRRQ.jpeg?smart=true&auth=a20530090f6f79e7be063fd8b8d321a58f873e3cb1265ea82f26e7acd0aefde0&width=400&height=225)
Traditional Ceylon tea with jaggery.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/H7FP37R4R5AQDHZPCAFA6CAJZI.jpeg?smart=true&auth=5b334b8053f70067862b121c2807b10964aa436c1e37d2d8aff61987df5bf3c2&width=400&height=225)
Fried jaggery-coated dal snacks.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/PXSPSAUCIJCW5N2KE4MSUNUDHI.jpeg?smart=true&auth=b4de88903e22b92f09da1a3d8f22c138737852cd6719f0fbd910d4c602ed9506&width=400&height=225)
A Sinhala sweet made from jaggery.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/2AGH53H7LRBNFIXXNT4RF6L7CE.jpg?smart=true&auth=d45be2afb759ea11dbf5ca91282e1ceaa4c61245982bda879754e5c57c023581&width=400&height=225)
Hela Bojun Halas are popular with women and men alike.
One kothu roti at a time: how Sri Lanka’s Hela Bojun Hala eateries empower women
The low-cost roadside restaurants are run by local ladies who serve up delicious and nutritious dishes in a jiffy
Meenakshi J
25 March, 2022
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