The sun doesn’t so much rise in Messinia as stretch languidly and peer over the mountains before gradually deciding to bestow its beatific gaze on the rugged, rural landscape below. The low morning mist that clings to the olive groves, making them look as ethereal as the myths and legends so tied to this land, is slowly chased away. Thus, the day begins in this beautiful and largely unspoiled region of Greece.
Messinia is about a three-hour drive from Athens in the south-western part of the Peloponnese region. Lacking the big-name recognition of islands such as Mykonos, Santorini and Crete, or cities such as Thessaloniki, life in the region moves at a slower pace, allowing traditions to seep into your bones in ways that differ from buzzier destinations.
Here, the beaches are less crowded, the tourist routes a little less trodden and the traditional way of life a little closer to the surface. The region is perhaps not as unknown as you might imagine; I assume that even if you’ve never visited the region, you’ve heard of Kalamata, where the black olives specific to the region come from.
My first experience of Messinia is on a bike – a gear bike, not an e-bike, I might add – which is easily the most fun way to traverse the narrow streets clearly built for horse and cart, not cars. I set out in the morning from The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, Costa Navarino with my guide, Dani from Moraitis Outdoors, who has thoughtfully packed my bag for the day, including water, a towel and protein bars. The swimsuit, I provide myself.
We head along Filiatron-Korifasiou, past hectares of olive groves, including a 1,500-year-old tree by which we pause to pay due reverence and to eat fresh figs plucked from nearby trees. They are without doubt the sweetest figs I’ve ever tasted.
Our destination is Gialova Lagoon, home to flamingos and the only location in Europe where you might spot an African Chameleon. When the water was drained in the 1950s to cultivate agricultural land (later refilled in 2000), it caused widespread damage to the ecosystem and uncovered a Hellenistic necropolis, an elaborate ancient cemetery dating back to the 4th century BC. Artefacts from the site can be found at the Archaeological Museum of Pylos at Niokastro Fortress.
From the lagoons, we cycle to the nearby Voidokilia beach, or Omega beach, due to its shape in the Greek letter omega. In a selfish way, I'm relieved when I find the beach pleasantly busy rather than overrun with vibe-destroying loud tourists. Fighting for space on the sand isn't required.
The sea is beautiful. The crystal-clear Ionian waters sparkle in the sunlight as small fish dart around your toes. It’s also impressive from higher up, as we take a short five-minute walk uphill to enjoy a bird’s-eye view.
Here, we also glimpse the ruins of the Mycenaean Tomb of Thrasymedes. According to ancient tradition, it contains the remains of the mythical son of the famed King Nestor, Thrasymedes. The tomb itself is not much to look at, but the views from the top and the sense of history more than make up for it.
Across the water on the opposite hillside sits King Nestor’s Cave, another famed spot in Greek mythology. It is said to be the spot where infant god Hermes hid the 50 cattle he stole from Apollo, and where the mythological King Nestor housed his livestock. During my September visit, locals were still abuzz from the visit by actors Matt Damon and Zendaya, who were there to film Christopher Nolan’s coming film The Odyssey, with scenes shot at the cave itself.
The Polylimnio Waterfalls are another favourite for visitors to the region. Around 45 minutes from Kalamata, hiring a car is the best way to reach them, with parking available nearby. From there, it’s a short, but tricky walk that is unsuitable for people with mobility issues. Down a steep slope and with the occasional rock to clamber over before you reach the falls, once you get there, you’re free to swim in the water and explore the 15 freshwater lakes which give the area its name – Polylimnio translates to many lakes.
Pylos Town, about a 35-minute drive from the waterfalls, is a charming port town that’s perfect for a late afternoon coffee. While its population is just under 5,000, trinket shoppers clearly do frequent the town as leather and ceramic shops give away. Built around the main square, which looks out over the small marina, people and boat-watching are also worthy pastimes here.
For something more mentally stimulating, I visit the impressive Niokastro or the New Navarino fortress, which overlooks the town. The €6 ($6.93) entrance fee allows access to the fortress site, the Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour and the Archaeological Museum of Pylos.
The fort is still largely intact, with visitors able to walk around the ramparts and enjoy the cavernous entrance halls, storerooms and rusting cannons and anchors on display. Due to the steep slopes and slippery cobblestones, it’s not suitable for those with limited mobility. Built by the Ottoman Turks in 1573, it changed hands among the Venetians, Turks and even the Russians for a brief period over the centuries, and during this time, the Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour alternated between being a mosque and a Christian church many times. This tension is reflected in theand
The onsite Archaeological Museum of Pylos is small, but filled with local and regional artefacts, including everyday items such as arrowheads, lamps and bowls, as well as a bathtub and giant burial urn.
If you're also a history buff, then I'd recommend making time to visit Ancient Messini – a vast city only a 45-minute drive from Kalamata with tales and ruins that go even further back than the fort and remain largely intact.
The city of Ancient Messene was founded in 369 BC, and these ruins rival those at Olympia, without the crowds that throng to the famous site. As I traverse the ruins of the Fountain of Arsinoe, which supplied the city’s water, the treasury, the Sanctuary of Asclepius and the Arcadian Gate, I learn that according to local myth, Ancient Messini is the true birthplace of Zeus rather than Crete, and is home to a large theatre, an impressively preserved stadium and marketplace. I traverse the ruins of the Fountain of Arsinoe, which supplied the city’s water, the treasury, the Sanctuary of Asclepius and the Arcadian Gate.
So, do I recommend Messinia for your next holiday destination? Absolutely not. In fact, look away, go elsewhere, I’m trying to keep this region a secret!
But if you simply must go there (and you really must), remember to leave your schedule at the airport and embrace the slow, unhurried Greek pace of life, just as it’s been lived for thousands of years.
