Lorry fleet owner Majed Ahmad flips through a list of tariffs issued by a pro-Turkish administration in north-west Syria.
The booklet lists a fee for an array of items. For example, for every 1,000 chicks brought into Syria, a fee of $7 is added on top, a bargain compared with $28 on each cow.
“Everything is allowed in, except contraband,” Mr Ahmad says at his office in the Turkish border city of Kilis.
He is a main player in transporting goods from Turkey into areas ruled by divided opponents of Syrian President Bashar Al Assad.
The region, home to millions of refugees, relies on Turkish goods to survive, ranging from steel and cement to food staples such as sugar and cooking oil.
Each group that controls territory his lorries pass through has different rules, regulations and kickbacks required to import and export goods.
Politically opposed rebel groups even cordially handle goods over checkpoints in the pursuit of profit and securing power, Mr Ahmad, traders and other sources in the area say.
These trade links became ever more important last week after the UN Security Council failed to agree on the renewal of humanitarian aid flows from Turkey to border areas outside the President’s control, mainly through the Bab Al Hawa border crossing, west of Kilis.
But trade continues unabated across a dozen official and unofficial crossings along or near the 900km border with Turkey.
The flow of goods between areas controlled by Syrian factions with a history of hostility reflects the lure of money and the spread of a war economy in the country for more than a decade.
Groups that have been fighting each other have put aside their ideological differences in the pursuit of profit and a steady income stream, and this has contributed to solidifying their power.
Mr Ahmad, a Syrian living in Turkey, is one of many taking advantage of the power vacuum left by Mr Al Assad's loss of territory since the start of the 2011 revolt and the ensuing brutal clampdown.
As well as importing crucial goods from Turkey into Syria, Mr Ahmad transports goods from rebel-held areas in northern Syria to Turkey, Europe and the Middle East.
The cargo on his lorries is diverse; once the pistachio season starts in September, he will be sending the nuts to Germany from the Aleppo countryside.
He has shipped laurel leaves and dried coriander from areas run by a Kurdish militia in Syria’s Euphrates valley through Turkey to Morocco.
The US-supported militia, called the People Protection Units, or YPG, is opposed to Turkey. The laurel and coriander went through territory controlled by rival militias supported by Ankara.
“Everyone makes a cut,” Mr Ahmad says.
Several crossings
The border areas remain outside Mr Al Assad's grip despite Russian intervention on his side in 2015 because of the US military presence and Turkish security interests.
Mr Ahmad’s lorries operate in areas held by groups as diverse the YPG, which is inspired by Marxism-Leninism, in the north-east to an Al Qaeda offshoot, Tahrir Al Sham, in the north-west.
An administration likened to a Turkish proxy, called the Syrian National Army, controls a strip that contains the city of Azaz, on the opposite side of the Kilis crossing.
The Syrian National Army mainly comprises rebels who fought the regime and were defeated after the Russian intervention on Mr Assad’s side in 2015.
The containers go through an array of crossings between Syria and Turkey and between territories held by the factions themselves, where the merchandise is taxed by local powers on the ground.
A Syrian merchant based in the southern Turkish city of Gaziantep, said he regularly sends Turkish flour on Mr Ahmed's lorries to Azaz, from where it is distributed across northern Syria.
Mr Ahmad says that some of the importers are experienced while others are new to the scene, employing their connections to the local armed actors to squeeze other traders out.
He says canned food he transports to Idlib province is only allowed in if it is destined for traders approved by Tahrir Al Sham.
In Azaz, he says sugar imports are dominated by Issam Sharabati, an experienced commodities trader.
He operated in Aleppo before the uprising, supported it and moved to the countryside after it fell to the Syrian military and pro-Iranian militia in 2016.
“He is a rare example who dominates the market because of his expertise,” says Mr Ahmad.
The crossing at Kilis is situated on a farming road, with pistachio trees and wheat planted on the side, a mirror of the Syrian side, which was handed to the Syrian National Army after Turkey expelled the YPG from the area in 2015.
Lorries bearing Turkish number plates emerge slowly from the crossing amid scorching heat, watched by Turkish security personnel in a camp at the crossing.
Syrian lorries are not allowed into Turkey and Mr Ahmad, who is from Azaz, has a Turkish partner in Kilis.
However, he owns 100 lorries inside Syria, which he uses to ferry the Turkish goods – once they arrive in Azaz – to areas further to the east, controlled by the YPG.
The goods are also smuggled into areas further south that are with Damascus, through unofficial border crossings.
These goods are subject of transit fees as well as import fees by the Kurdish-controlled administration and other factions that let the lorries through.
An official in the administration, who did not want to be named, confirmed the trade, saying that goods from Iran and Iraqi Kurdistan were also available in the area.
At Azaz, the transit fee for 1,000 chicks is $10 and $30 for a cow.
Mr Ahmed also sends merchandise to Idlib, which is largely controlled by Tahrir Al Sham.
Although Turkey has open channels with the militant group, it has been more focused on developing the strip around Azaz, where it is seen as having the full obedience of the Syrian National Army.
Syrian opposition sources say Turkey has been quietly cleansing its zone of the influence of actors that do not owe it complete obedience.
In January, a Turkish drone strike killed Saddam Moussa, a warlord affiliated with Tahrir Al Sham who was running the Jarablus border crossing with Turkey, the sources say.
But Tahrir Al Sham still has influence in the Turkish proxy zone, with a militia called Al Hamzat in control of unofficial crossings, alongside the Assad government.
Turkey has set up an industrial zone near Al Rai in 2021, another crossing south-east of Kilis and offered Syrian investors in the zone special passes to travel to Turkey, as well as electricity subsidies for their factories.
One Syrian investor who bought land in the zone this year at $20 a square metre, says plastic goods and cables are already being produced.
“Being able to cross the border to do business is alone worth it,” he says.
India team for Sri Lanka series
Test squad: Rohit Sharma (captain), Priyank Panchal, Mayank Agarwal, Virat Kohli, Shreyas Iyer, Hanuma Vihari, Shubhman Gill, Rishabh Pant (wk), KS Bharath (wk), Ravindra Jadeja, Jayant Yadav, Ravichandran Ashwin, Kuldeep Yadav, Sourabh Kumar, Mohammed Siraj, Umesh Yadav, Mohammed Shami, Jasprit Bumrah.
T20 squad: Rohit Sharma (captain), Ruturaj Gaikwad, Shreyas Iyer, Surya Kumar Yadav, Sanju Samson, Ishan Kishan (wk), Venkatesh Iyer, Deepak Chahar, Deepak Hooda, Ravindra Jadeja, Yuzvendra Chahal, Ravi Bishnoi, Kuldeep Yadav, Mohammed Siraj, Bhuvneshwar Kumar, Harshal Patel, Jasprit Bumrah, Avesh Khan
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
What She Ate: Six Remarkable Women & the Food That Tells Their Stories
Laura Shapiro
Fourth Estate
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Getting there
The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly to Johannesburg or Cape Town daily. Flights cost from about Dh3,325, with a flying time of 8hours and 15 minutes. From there, fly South African Airlines or Air Namibia to Namibia’s Windhoek Hosea Kutako International Airport, for about Dh850. Flying time is 2 hours.
The stay
Wilderness Little Kulala offers stays from £460 (Dh2,135) per person, per night. It is one of seven Wilderness Safari lodges in Namibia; www.wilderness-safaris.com.
Skeleton Coast Safaris’ four-day adventure involves joining a very small group in a private plane, flying to some of the remotest areas in the world, with each night spent at a different camp. It costs from US$8,335.30 (Dh30,611); www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
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Analysis
Maros Sefcovic is juggling multiple international trade agreement files, but his message was clear when he spoke to The National on Wednesday.
The EU-UAE bilateral trade deal will be finalised soon, he said. It is in everyone’s interests to do so. Both sides want to move quickly and are in alignment. He said the UAE is a very important partner for the EU. It’s full speed ahead - and with some lofty ambitions - on the road to a free trade agreement.
We also talked about US-EU tariffs. He answered that both sides need to talk more and more often, but he is prepared to defend Europe's position and said diplomacy should be a guiding principle through the current moment.
Infiniti QX80 specs
Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6
Power: 450hp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000
Available: Now
Charlotte Gainsbourg
Rest
(Because Music)
RACE CARD AND SELECTIONS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,200m
5,30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 1,200m
6pm: The President’s Cup Listed (TB) Dh380,000 1,400m
6.30pm: The President’s Cup Group One (PA) Dh2,500,000 2,200m
7pm: Arabian Triple Crown Listed (PA) Dh230,000 1,600m
7.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh80,000 1,400m
The National selections
5pm: RB Hot Spot
5.30pm: Dahess D’Arabie
6pm: Taamol
6.30pm: Rmmas
7pm: RB Seqondtonone
7.30pm: AF Mouthirah
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Visit Abu Dhabi culinary team's top Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi
Yadoo’s House Restaurant & Cafe
For the karak and Yoodo's house platter with includes eggs, balaleet, khamir and chebab bread.
Golden Dallah
For the cappuccino, luqaimat and aseeda.
Al Mrzab Restaurant
For the shrimp murabian and Kuwaiti options including Kuwaiti machboos with kebab and spicy sauce.
Al Derwaza
For the fish hubul, regag bread, biryani and special seafood soup.
UK-EU trade at a glance
EU fishing vessels guaranteed access to UK waters for 12 years
Co-operation on security initiatives and procurement of defence products
Youth experience scheme to work, study or volunteer in UK and EU countries
Smoother border management with use of e-gates
Cutting red tape on import and export of food
PROFILE BOX
Company name: Overwrite.ai
Founder: Ayman Alashkar
Started: Established in 2020
Based: Dubai International Financial Centre, Dubai
Sector: PropTech
Initial investment: Self-funded by founder
Funding stage: Seed funding, in talks with angel investors
APPLE IPAD MINI (A17 PRO)
Display: 21cm Liquid Retina Display, 2266 x 1488, 326ppi, 500 nits
Chip: Apple A17 Pro, 6-core CPU, 5-core GPU, 16-core Neural Engine
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Main camera: 12MP wide, f/1.8, digital zoom up to 5x, Smart HDR 4
Front camera: 12MP ultra-wide, f/2.4, Smart HDR 4, full-HD @ 25/30/60fps
Biometrics: Touch ID, Face ID
Colours: Blue, purple, space grey, starlight
In the box: iPad mini, USB-C cable, 20W USB-C power adapter
Price: From Dh2,099
The 12 breakaway clubs
England
Arsenal, Chelsea, Liverpool, Manchester City, Manchester United, Tottenham Hotspur
Italy
AC Milan, Inter Milan, Juventus
Spain
Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, Real Madrid
ACL Elite (West) - fixtures
Monday, Sept 30
Al Sadd v Esteghlal (8pm)
Persepolis v Pakhtakor (8pm)
Al Wasl v Al Ahli (8pm)
Al Nassr v Al Rayyan (10pm)
Tuesday, Oct 1
Al Hilal v Al Shorta (10pm)
Al Gharafa v Al Ain (10pm)
BIGGEST CYBER SECURITY INCIDENTS IN RECENT TIMES
SolarWinds supply chain attack: Came to light in December 2020 but had taken root for several months, compromising major tech companies, governments and its entities
Microsoft Exchange server exploitation: March 2021; attackers used a vulnerability to steal emails
Kaseya attack: July 2021; ransomware hit perpetrated REvil, resulting in severe downtime for more than 1,000 companies
Log4j breach: December 2021; attackers exploited the Java-written code to inflitrate businesses and governments