On shoes co-founder Olivier Bernhard reveals how it became running’s most innovative brand

Founded in 2010, the Swiss start-up rewrote the rules of the sport

In a decade and a half, On has become one of the leading brands of trainers in the world, taking on industry giants such as Nike and Adidas. Photo: On

Last month, Kenyan long-distance runner Hellen Obiri set a course record at the New York City Marathon, clocking 2:19:51. She didn’t only break the old record – she obliterated it by two and a half minutes. And she did so while wearing the Cloudboom Strike LightSpray shoes by On.

A few days later, the exhilaration is still palpable during a chat with On co-founder Olivier Bernhard. “Emotional rollercoaster,” he says. “It gets me every time. Maybe because I’ve been there myself, I have literally been in their shoes. I wish I had run the marathon – probably would’ve been easier than just watching it.”

Obiri’s achievement delights him. “This is what sport is all about. It’s so honest and authentic.”

On leans strongly into its Swiss pedigree to position the brand. Photo: On

Bernhard knows exactly what it takes to reach such heights. Before launching On in 2010 with friends David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti, he was a professional athlete – three-time world champion, European champion and 15-time Swiss champion in duathlon and Ironman events. That experience informed the company’s founding mission: to create the ultimate performance footwear.

Searching for the perfect balance between cushioned landing and explosive lift-off, Bernhard began by stapling pieces of garden hose to the soles of shoes. Those experiments evolved into On’s signature CloudTec cushioning: hollow pods that absorb landing energy, then lock together to generate powerful propulsion. Because the pods compress both vertically and horizontally, each shoe adapts to a runner’s individual style.

It was this breakthrough that attracted Swiss professional tennis player Roger Federer, who joined the company as an investor and collaborator in 2019.

Professional runners and On Athletics Club Global Team, from left, Dathan Ritzenhein, Joe Klecker, Hellen Obiri, Patrick Kiprop, Ryan Ford and Laura Thweatt. Photo: On

Professional insight remains On’s competitive edge, Bernhard says. “Feedback is what allows us to lift every product to the next level. I was a professional athlete, but I was not asked for feedback. It’s a waste of knowledge, as I was the one at the end of the chain demanding the most of the product.”

But building for elite competition comes with pressure. “The dream is to deliver the best power possible. But the New York City Marathon or Olympic Games come with a date. So we have to not only deliver the shoe, but also deliver it when the athlete needs it.”

On’s reputation for performance and coherence continues to grow. Every product is clearly defined by purpose – the Roger for tennis hard courts, the off-road Cloudvista 2 for wet, mixed terrain, the Cloud 6 Waterproof for daily wear. Clothing ranges from ultralight windproof jackets to heat-wicking tops designed for wider training temperatures.

Innovation sits at the centre. The Cloudboom Strike LS worn by Obiri – also used when she took bronze at the Paris 2024 Olympic marathon – is built with On’s new LightSpray technology. A robotic arm winds a continuous thermoplastic thread around a carbon-fibre mould, producing a featherlight, seamless, sock-like shoe in just three minutes, weighing only 170g. “LightSpray is not just another product; it’s a revolutionary long-term innovation, because it’s a new way to make shoes,” Bernhard says.

Olivier Bernhard, one of On's co-founders, has helped lead the company to a $14 billion valuation. Photo: On

It’s sustainable, too. The process uses less material, requires smaller machinery and could allow On to create micro-hubs where shoes are made locally, cutting shipping distances and environmental impact.

Another innovation, the Cloudmonster 2, incorporates On’s patented Speedboard – a nylon-blend plate that transfers energy from heel strike into forward propulsion. It stems from Bernhard’s frustration at having to choose between cushioning and responsiveness. “I always thought, how beautiful would it be to combine these two things in one shoe, and deliver a new running sensation.”

When On launched, industry insiders warned against competing with giants such as Nike and Adidas. Bernhard brushed it off. “When we founded On, we were no one. Because I was a runner, I wanted to line up at the start line and see who finishes first.”

The ability to innovate meant the expected battle never materialised. “We thought the finish line was so far off that we would never win. But we actually won very quickly,” he says. Fifteen years in, On reached a market capitalisation of $13.8 billion to $14 billion in November.

But success brings new expectations. “I’ve been a world champion. I wouldn’t say that was easy, but in a naive way, you just race and look around before the finish line and say, OK, I’m the world champion. But second time around, everyone is expecting you to finish first again. That’s the position we’re in now.” His answer lies in the company’s DNA. “We are very proud to have Swiss engineering in our shoes.”

Despite its technical rigour, On has become an unexpected fashion favourite. Its minimalist silhouettes caught the eye of Loewe, resulting in a 2022 capsule that fused Swiss precision with Mediterranean luxury, including the Cloudtilt trainer and its deep, comfort-oriented sole. More recently, the brand unveiled its second collaboration with American actress Zendaya: the Cloudzone Moon, built for all-day wear with CloudTec cushioning.

On has been very strategic about it's partnerships, including with luxury brands such as Loewe. Photo: On

Still, the athlete’s mindset remains central – curiosity, resilience and learning through failure. “We celebrate the failure of the month,” Bernhard says with a laugh. “It’s not a blaming session at all, because we learn from it.”

The brand is also investing in community. Through run clubs, events and apparel engineered for extreme climates, its mission – “to ignite the human spirit through movement” – is spreading globally, including its first GCC retail space in Riyadh.

Part of that vision includes addressing what happens to shoes at the end of their life. In September, On introduced the Cloudrise Cyclon 1.1, featuring a Speedboard made from leftover materials and recycled Cloudneo shoes – a quiet but meaningful step towards circular design.

“Innovation will remain at the core of everything we do,” Bernhard says. “There’s no reason to deliver just another shoe in a different colour. There has to be underlying innovation pushing us to a higher level. The future is On.”