Trips to the summit of Mount Yasur, on Vanuatu's Tanna Island, are usually timed to arrive after sunset so that the volcano's activity can be witnessed to greatest effect.
Trips to the summit of Mount Yasur, on Vanuatu's Tanna Island, are usually timed to arrive after sunset so that the volcano's activity can be witnessed to greatest effect.

Vanuatu: South Pacific rim



I'm crouched by the rim of a volcano, watching molten rocks being hurled high up into the air to an accompaniment of crackling lava explosions. One bang is so loud I almost jump out of my skin. Beneath my feet, the ground rumbles. I'm nine parts terrified, one part spellbound by this remarkable sound and light show. I'm on Tanna Island, in the South Pacific nation of Vanuatu, and I've driven for hours to reach Mount Yasur, as this bubbling, hissing cauldron is known. It's supposed to be the world's most accessible active volcano, but peering over the edge, I can't help wondering if this is just because everything in Tanna is accessible. If Yasur were in Australia, for instance, where I live, it would be out of bounds - or, at the very least, enclosed by safety barriers and a forest of warning signs.

On Tanna, one of the bigger islands in the Vanuatu archipelago, you can do pretty much as you please. You can snorkel or dive in absurdly clear waters full of coral and tropical fish. You can try out the local cuisine: dishes such as coconut crab or laplap - baked dough parcels of fish or meat. You can visit jungle-clad villages populated by tribespeople who hunt with bamboo bows and arrows. Or you can simply unwind as you savour the leisurely rhythms of life on this hilly, picturesque island.

Although an established tourist destination, with regular flights from Australia and New Zealand, Vanuatu is less developed than other South Pacific countries. Outside the capital, Port Vila, which is on the main island of Efate, most roads are unsealed and electricity is patchy. Getting around is a bit of a challenge, and you may find yourself dining by candlelight (although the principal resorts have their own generators); in general, the relative lack of infrastructure adds to Vanuatu's appeal.

Mount Yasur is one of several active volcanoes in Vanuatu, which lies in an area of high seismic activity. Last week, a 7.5-magnitude earthquake struck just off Port Vila, shaking buildings and generating a small tsunami. However, it caused no significant damage. During more stable times, Port Vila is a pleasant place to linger for a few days before venturing further afield. It's a charming, slightly scruffy, not altogether unsophisticated town, sandwiched between Vila Bay and the large Erakor Lagoon. There are few formal "sights", although the National Museum has an impressive array of traditional artefacts, including a gigantic outrigger canoe, while the imposing Sacre Coeur Cathedral is a reminder of Vanuatu's colonial past: as the New Hebrides, it was jointly administered by Britain and France until independence in 1980. Vila is cheap and easy to get around: just hop on one of the numerous minibuses, tell the driver where you want to go and hand over the flat fare of 150 vatu (Dh6). However, much of the town can be seen on foot.

Join the smiling women in brightly coloured dresses strolling along the frangipani tree-lined waterfront, and watch the kids jumping off the quay into bright blue waters teeming with fish. You'll find a string of cafes and souvenir shops, and a sprawling food market (daily from Monday until Saturday lunchtime). A little farther on is the market's arts and crafts precinct; the beautifully carved wooden bats make good mementoes, as does the excellent basketware.

France's influence is evident in Vila's restaurants, many of which specialise in Gallic cuisine with a Pacific twist. Chantilly's on the Bay, right by the water, was one of my favourites. For a different perspective, take the free, 24-hour ferry to little Irikiki Island, in the middle of the bay, and enjoy the city views while sipping a drink at the island's resort. You can snorkel and dive off Efate, but many tourists choose to visit one of the outlying islands, reached by ferry or a short domestic flight. Underwater fanatics head to Espiritu Santo, considered one of the world's top diving spots, where the wreck of the USS President Coolidge, sunk by mines during the Second World War, lies close to shore. A very different activity, "land diving", can be witnessed on the island of Pentecost, when the local men throw themselves head-first off 35-metre-high towers made of tree trunks and branches, with vines tied around their ankles.

Tanna, a 35-minute plane ride from Port Vila, has a bit of everything. (It has no ATM, though, and the shops are thinly stocked; make sure to stock up on essentials, including mosquito repellent, before leaving the capital.) We based ourselves in the island's south-west, not far from the airport and main town of Lemakel, where the beaches (mainly black sand) are nothing special but the snorkelling is outstanding. Just offshore is a sheer coral drop of about 30 metres, inhabited by an extraordinary variety of marine life, including oversized angel fish cavorting in almost electric blue waters.

A popular place to stay in this area is the Evergreen Bungalows, with its delightful, laid-back ambience, or, next door, the White Grass Ocean Resort, which is more upmarket. Meals, not included in the nightly tariff, feature plenty of locally caught fish, such as wahoo and mai mai. Most accommodation centres offer free snorkelling gear, as well as reef shoes, which are a must. A short walk north of Evergreen and White Grass is idyllic Blue Hole One (there are three), a great snorkelling spot popular with the locals - ni-Vanuatu, as these friendly, intriguing people are known. After school, boys swim and mess around here in dugout canoes, while women sit cross-legged in the shade, and ridiculously plump hens peck around the shoreline, pursued by fluffy, days-old chicks.

It's worth catching the "bus" (an ancient van with an irregular schedule) for the half-hour ride into Lemakel, which has a small beach, a few dusty shops and a pint-sized market. But the principal attraction on Tanna is Yasur, and most of the resorts run tours which, although relatively pricey (about 9,000 vatu, or Dh335, per person), are not to be missed. The tours leave after lunch and reach the volcano at dusk; the journey - a bone-rattling ride along twisting, potholed dirt roads - is almost as interesting as the destination. Driving along a road that hugged the beach, we saw children raucously splashing in the shallows and surfing to shore on makeshift wooden planks; women were washing clothes and laying them out to dry on the sand, while men sat around in little groups, drinking kava, the local brew.

Turning inland, we passed villagers wielding machetes by the roadside, and giant banyan trees, with thick aerial roots. Wild pigs dashed in and out of bushes. One small boy jumped up and down as we passed, beside himself with excitement. As we climbed ever higher, marvellous views of the east coast opened up ahead of us, and soon we could see Yasur itself: a smoking, smouldering silhouette, dominating the horizon.

The road leading to the base winds through the ash plains, an unearthly, grey-black moonscape. Then followed a steep, 15-minute hike up to the rim; as we drew closer, the ground shuddered ominously and a series of ear-splitting explosions heralded fiery lava displays. I was fervently hoping the volcano had not chosen that day for one of its regular eruptions, although our guide assured us that scientists keep a close eye on Yasur and close the area long before that happens.

By the time we reached the top of the crater, the sun had set and the night sky was a perfect backdrop for Yasur's pyrotechnics. The volcano is said to be inhabited by spirit figures, including, oddly, one who is believed to be the ancestor of Prince Philip, the British Queen's husband. I was so intrigued by this story that the next day I made the gruelling journey to a village called Yaohnanen, where the tribespeople worship Prince Philip and are convinced that he will one day come back to Tanna to live among them.

The Duke of Edinburgh did visit Vanuatu with the Queen in 1974, which is when the cargo cult is believed to have taken root. The chief of Yaohnanen, Siko Nathuan, showed us three signed portraits sent out by Buckingham Palace over the years. They are stored in a bamboo hut with a thatched roof and dirt floor, which has been made into a shrine. The plan is for Prince Philip to live in the hut when he returns.

This curious movement is one of scores of cargo cults that sprang up in Vanuatu and around the Pacific following the arrival of missionaries and other westerners. They were triggered partly by awe of the outsiders' material possessions, but were also a way for the islanders to hold on to their traditional customs and beliefs. One anthropologist familiar with the region, Kirk Huffman, describes them as "taking elements of the outside world and slotting them into their own belief systems".

In another village, Yakel, my companion, gave his blue straw hat to the chief as we left. Arriving at the airport for our flight back to Port Vila, we saw another Tanna man outside the terminal. He was wearing the blue hat. I think we may have started a new cargo cult. travel@thenational.ae

The specs: 2019 Chevrolet Bolt EV

Price, base: Dh138,000 (estimate)
Engine: 60kWh battery
Transmission: Single-speed Electronic Precision Shift
Power: 204hp
Torque: 360Nm
​​​​​​​Range: 520km (claimed)

Our legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Abu Dhabi GP schedule

Friday: First practice - 1pm; Second practice - 5pm

Saturday: Final practice - 2pm; Qualifying - 5pm

Sunday: Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (55 laps) - 5.10pm

THE%C2%A0SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.4-litre%20four-cylinder%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20210hp%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20320Nm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Starting%20from%20Dh89%2C900%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How to help

Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200

Royal Birkdale Golf Course

Location: Southport, Merseyside, England

Established: 1889

Type: Private

Total holes: 18

Key changes

Commission caps

For life insurance products with a savings component, Peter Hodgins of Clyde & Co said different caps apply to the saving and protection elements:

• For the saving component, a cap of 4.5 per cent of the annualised premium per year (which may not exceed 90 per cent of the annualised premium over the policy term). 

• On the protection component, there is a cap  of 10 per cent of the annualised premium per year (which may not exceed 160 per cent of the annualised premium over the policy term).

• Indemnity commission, the amount of commission that can be advanced to a product salesperson, can be 50 per cent of the annualised premium for the first year or 50 per cent of the total commissions on the policy calculated. 

• The remaining commission after deduction of the indemnity commission is paid equally over the premium payment term.

• For pure protection products, which only offer a life insurance component, the maximum commission will be 10 per cent of the annualised premium multiplied by the length of the policy in years.

Disclosure

Customers must now be provided with a full illustration of the product they are buying to ensure they understand the potential returns on savings products as well as the effects of any charges. There is also a “free-look” period of 30 days, where insurers must provide a full refund if the buyer wishes to cancel the policy.

“The illustration should provide for at least two scenarios to illustrate the performance of the product,” said Mr Hodgins. “All illustrations are required to be signed by the customer.”

Another illustration must outline surrender charges to ensure they understand the costs of exiting a fixed-term product early.

Illustrations must also be kept updatedand insurers must provide information on the top five investment funds available annually, including at least five years' performance data.

“This may be segregated based on the risk appetite of the customer (in which case, the top five funds for each segment must be provided),” said Mr Hodgins.

Product providers must also disclose the ratio of protection benefit to savings benefits. If a protection benefit ratio is less than 10 per cent "the product must carry a warning stating that it has limited or no protection benefit" Mr Hodgins added.

Singham Again

Director: Rohit Shetty

Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone

Rating: 3/5

MATCH INFO

Manchester United 1 (Rashford 36')

Liverpool 1 (Lallana 84')

Man of the match: Marcus Rashford (Manchester United)

Why are you, you?

Why are you, you?
From this question, a new beginning.
From this question, a new destiny.
For you are a world, and a meeting of worlds.
Our dream is to unite that which has been
separated by history.
To return the many to the one.
A great story unites us all,
beyond colour and creed and gender.
The lightning flash of art
And the music of the heart.
We reflect all cultures, all ways.
We are a twenty first century wonder.
Universal ideals, visions of art and truth.
Now is the turning point of cultures and hopes.
Come with questions, leave with visions.
We are the link between the past and the future.
Here, through art, new possibilities are born. And
new answers are given wings.

Why are you, you?
Because we are mirrors of each other.
Because together we create new worlds.
Together we are more powerful than we know.
We connect, we inspire, we multiply illuminations
with the unique light of art.

 Ben Okri,

How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

Tips for taking the metro

- set out well ahead of time

- make sure you have at least Dh15 on you Nol card, as there could be big queues for top-up machines

- enter the right cabin. The train may be too busy to move between carriages once you're on

- don't carry too much luggage and tuck it under a seat to make room for fellow passengers

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CREW
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Company%20Profile
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Jigra
Director: Vasan Bala
Starring: Alia Bhatt, Vedang Raina, Manoj Pahwa, Harsh Singh
Rated: 3.5/5
Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hoopla%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EDate%20started%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMarch%202023%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Jacqueline%20Perrottet%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2010%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPre-seed%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20required%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%24500%2C000%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
COMPANY PROFILE

Company: Bidzi

● Started: 2024

● Founders: Akshay Dosaj and Asif Rashid

● Based: Dubai, UAE

● Industry: M&A

● Funding size: Bootstrapped

● No of employees: Nine

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The Vines - In Miracle Land
Two stars

Company%20profile
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
 
Started: 2020
 
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
 
Based: Dubai, UAE
 
Sector: Entertainment 
 
Number of staff: 210 
 
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
If you go

The flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Seattle from Dh5,555 return, including taxes.


The car
Hertz offers compact car rental from about $300 (Dh1,100) per week, including taxes. Emirates Skywards members can earn points on their car hire through Hertz.


The national park
Entry to Mount Rainier National Park costs $30 for one vehicle and passengers for up to seven days. Accommodation can be booked through mtrainierguestservices.com. Prices vary according to season. Rooms at the Holiday Inn Yakima cost from $125 per night, excluding breakfast.

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FORSPOKEN
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Company%20of%20Heroes%203
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Final%20Fantasy%20XVI
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Street%20Fighter%206
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Diablo%20IV
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Baldur's%20Gate%203
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The%20Legend%20of%20Zelda%3A%20Tears%20of%20The%20Kingdom
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Marvel's%20Spider-Man%202
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Assassin's%20Creed%20Mirage
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Starfield
%3Cp%3EDeveloper%3A%20Bethesda%20Game%20Studios%0D%3Cbr%3EPublisher%3A%20Bethesda%20Softworks%0D%3Cbr%3EConsole%3A%20PC%2C%20Xbox%0D%3Cbr%3ERelease%20date%3A%202023%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Electric scooters: some rules to remember
  • Riders must be 14-years-old or over
  • Wear a protective helmet
  • Park the electric scooter in designated parking lots (if any)
  • Do not leave electric scooter in locations that obstruct traffic or pedestrians
  • Solo riders only, no passengers allowed
  • Do not drive outside designated lanes
'My Son'

Director: Christian Carion

Starring: James McAvoy, Claire Foy, Tom Cullen, Gary Lewis

Rating: 2/5

The specs

Engine: four-litre V6 and 3.5-litre V6 twin-turbo

Transmission: six-speed and 10-speed

Power: 271 and 409 horsepower

Torque: 385 and 650Nm

Price: from Dh229,900 to Dh355,000

Sweet%20Tooth
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Cricket World Cup League 2

UAE squad

Rahul Chopra (captain), Aayan Afzal Khan, Ali Naseer, Aryansh Sharma, Basil Hameed, Dhruv Parashar, Junaid Siddique, Muhammad Farooq, Muhammad Jawadullah, Muhammad Waseem, Omid Rahman, Rahul Bhatia, Tanish Suri, Vishnu Sukumaran, Vriitya Aravind

Fixtures

Friday, November 1 – Oman v UAE
Sunday, November 3 – UAE v Netherlands
Thursday, November 7 – UAE v Oman
Saturday, November 9 – Netherlands v UAE

The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh219,000
On sale: Now
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Company%20Profile
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Thank You for Banking with Us

Director: Laila Abbas

Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum

Rating: 4/5

THE BIO

Favourite place to go to in the UAE: The desert sand dunes, just after some rain

Who inspires you: Anybody with new and smart ideas, challenging questions, an open mind and a positive attitude

Where would you like to retire: Most probably in my home country, Hungary, but with frequent returns to the UAE

Favorite book: A book by Transilvanian author, Albert Wass, entitled ‘Sword and Reap’ (Kard es Kasza) - not really known internationally

Favourite subjects in school: Mathematics and science

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MATCH INFO

West Ham United 2 (Antonio 73', Ogbonna 90 5')

Tottenham Hotspur 3 (Son 36', Moura 42', Kane 49')

SUNDAY'S ABU DHABI T10 MATCHES

Northern Warriors v Team Abu Dhabi, 3.30pm
Bangla Tigers v Karnataka Tuskers, 5.45pm
Qalandars v Maratha Arabians, 8pm

UAE squad to face Ireland

Ahmed Raza (captain), Chirag Suri (vice-captain), Rohan Mustafa, Mohammed Usman, Mohammed Boota, Zahoor Khan, Junaid Siddique, Waheed Ahmad, Zawar Farid, CP Rizwaan, Aryan Lakra, Karthik Meiyappan, Alishan Sharafu, Basil Hameed, Kashif Daud, Adithya Shetty, Vriitya Aravind

Biog

Mr Kandhari is legally authorised to conduct marriages in the gurdwara

He has officiated weddings of Sikhs and people of different faiths from Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Russia, the US and Canada

Father of two sons, grandfather of six

Plays golf once a week

Enjoys trying new holiday destinations with his wife and family

Walks for an hour every morning

Completed a Bachelor of Commerce degree in Loyola College, Chennai, India

2019 is a milestone because he completes 50 years in business

 

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed 

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