The Practical Traveller: Even news travels slowly in Kiribati



Chris Guillebeau, 34, is the author of The Art of Non-Conformity and The $100 Startup. He in on a five-year mission to visit every country in the world and is on number 189.

When it comes to faraway lands, there's the remote and, then, there's unheard of. To reach the small islands known collectively as Kiribati, I first had to make Australia, then fly to Fiji, board a 4am flight to Tarawa, the capital city - though to call it a city would be a stretch.

I was excited about my three days in Kiribati because it was the 189th country I've visited. After this, I'll have just four countries left to go in my quest to visit every country on Earth. A previous trip to Fiji took me to Samoa and Tonga, but I didn't realise I could only get to Kiribati from Fiji, so I had to backtrack.

This trip came with a layover at a decent hotel, a short drive from the airport. Kiribati presented a lower standard of travel, but one that felt more authentic.

Exploring Tarawa didn't take long. I used the only transport on the island: a series of minivans that picked up and dropped off passengers all along the main road for US$1 (Dh3.67) per ride, and you could hop off wherever you like.

Along the way, I met a young student who was going to Japan to study. We'd be on the same flight back to Fiji a few days later and she had never left the island before. "Does Japan have big buildings?" she asked. I told her yes, she could expect more buildings in Tokyo than in Tarawa. "Are there more cars in Japan?" she asked. I said yes, I was certain that nearly everything was greatly scaled between one of the most densely populated cities in the world and one of the most remote islands deep in the Pacific.

Someone else tapped me on the shoulder in one of the minivans. "I heard the man who invented the iPhone died. Is that true?" Steve Jobs had died more than a year ago, but apparently it takes time for news to reach this part of the world.

Despite the credit card logos on the guest house's website, the manager told me they only accept cash. "We've never taken any other payment. Someone in Australia made that website and they thought it would look good to have a picture of a credit card on it." Thankfully, I had enough cash to settle my bill.

There's only one way off the island - the twice-weekly flight to Fiji. Departure day arrived, but Air Pacific wasn't ready. At the tiny airfield, after a two-hour delay we were told that due to a maintenance issue, our departure was going to be delayed.

I moved back to the guest house and sat on the solitary chair in the windowless room. Food options were limited on the island and I hadn't eaten much in the past three days. On my second morning, the guest-house staff sent up a box of cornflakes and UHT milk. I supplemented this with a tin of peanuts and a jar of instant coffee from a stall down the road. Then, I took a nap.

A few hours later, I was informed that the plane was en route. I packed up, hopped in the back of a sedan with the young woman who was eager and nervous about her adventure away from the island.

The plane was eight hours late, but that hardly mattered. I was heading home, planning to continue my journey again next month, and my new friend was setting off to see the world beyond her small island for the first time. All was well.

Another way to earn air miles

In addition to the Emirates and Etihad programmes, there is the Air Miles Middle East card, which offers members the ability to choose any airline, has no black-out dates and no restrictions on seat availability. Air Miles is linked up to HSBC credit cards and can also be earned through retail partners such as Spinneys, Sharaf DG and The Toy Store.

An Emirates Dubai-London round-trip ticket costs 180,000 miles on the Air Miles website. But customers earn these ‘miles’ at a much faster rate than airline miles. Adidas offers two air miles per Dh1 spent. Air Miles has partnerships with websites as well, so booking.com and agoda.com offer three miles per Dh1 spent.

“If you use your HSBC credit card when shopping at our partners, you are able to earn Air Miles twice which will mean you can get that flight reward faster and for less spend,” says Paul Lacey, the managing director for Europe, Middle East and India for Aimia, which owns and operates Air Miles Middle East.

Dubai works towards better air quality by 2021

Dubai is on a mission to record good air quality for 90 per cent of the year – up from 86 per cent annually today – by 2021.

The municipality plans to have seven mobile air-monitoring stations by 2020 to capture more accurate data in hourly and daily trends of pollution.

These will be on the Palm Jumeirah, Al Qusais, Muhaisnah, Rashidiyah, Al Wasl, Al Quoz and Dubai Investment Park.

“It will allow real-time responding for emergency cases,” said Khaldoon Al Daraji, first environment safety officer at the municipality.

“We’re in a good position except for the cases that are out of our hands, such as sandstorms.

“Sandstorms are our main concern because the UAE is just a receiver.

“The hotspots are Iran, Saudi Arabia and southern Iraq, but we’re working hard with the region to reduce the cycle of sandstorm generation.”

Mr Al Daraji said monitoring as it stood covered 47 per cent of Dubai.

There are 12 fixed stations in the emirate, but Dubai also receives information from monitors belonging to other entities.

“There are 25 stations in total,” Mr Al Daraji said.

“We added new technology and equipment used for the first time for the detection of heavy metals.

“A hundred parameters can be detected but we want to expand it to make sure that the data captured can allow a baseline study in some areas to ensure they are well positioned.”

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'The Alchemist's Euphoria'

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Label: Columbia
Rating: 3/5