La Serre Bistro and Boulangerie in Dubai’s Downtown district has become the first regional restaurant to receive the Snail of Approval award from the Slow Food organisation.
Chef Izu Ani tells us about the restaurant’s new culinary distinction and his ambitions to expand the local ingredients list.
Congratulations on your Slow Food acknowledgement. What does it mean to you?
aIt’s a privilege because it’s recognition from an organisation that values ‘cooking with thought’ and ‘cooking the right way’. I share those values and they are the ethos of La Serre, which means greenhouse in French.
What home-grown ingredients are you working with?
Everything is made in-house wherever possible and, as much as we can, we source locally. I maintain the traditional values of buying the best raw, local ingredients and producing things on-site, instead of sourcing everything from everywhere. Unfortunately, in Dubai, it’s a bit more challenging and that’s why it’s great to be recognised for trying to do the right thing in the UAE. One of our main ingredients is eggs, which we source from a farm in Abu Dhabi. This helps us sustain our busy schedule downstairs in the boulangerie, known for its great breakfasts.
What percentage of the restaurant’s produce are you able to source locally?
The percentage depends on regular supply; we’re getting there, but consistent supply of ingredients is the challenge. We have to supplement things from our side and the percentage of UAE ingredients is probably about 30 per cent. I’m sure that will increase in the coming years as farmers continue to understand the demands of restaurants here. More players will enter the market and we’ll support them. At the same time, we have a business to run and a secure supply chain is key to our success.
Globally there’s ‘slow cheese’, ‘slow fish’, ‘slow meat’ – what would be top of your wish list to see produced here?
It’s hard to pick one key ingredient and I know that all the major ones are being looked at, in some way, by local farmers. Consistency of quality is crucial for us and I’ve visited a farm in Sharjah that is producing vegetables that look and taste great. There’s also now a gentleman in Abu Dhabi producing really top-quality venison.
• La Serre is located on Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard in Downtown Dubai. For reservations call 04 428 6969 or visit www.laserre.ae
Recipe: La Serre’s eggs Benedict
Ingredients – (serves four)
8 free-range UAE eggs
4 brioche buns
8 rashers of veal bacon
Olive oil, cracked black pepper and fresh chives to garnish
For the Hollandaise sauce
The yolk of 4 eggs
40ml white balsamic vinegar
10ml water
250g butter (melted)
Method
1. To prepare the Hollandaise sauce, place the egg yolks in a stainless-steel mixing bowl with the water, white balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt. Whisk thoroughly until the mixture starts to become airy and foam.
2. Position the bowl above a pan of simmering water. Whisk the mixture over the heat until it gets very thick. Turn off the heat and add the melted butter little by little, stirring constantly. Set it aside.
3. Grill the bacon and toast the halved brioche buns.
4. To poach the eggs, half fill a deep saucepan with hot, but not boiling, water. When small bubbles appear on the bottom of the pan, break the eggs into the water, one by one. Cook for about 4 minutes for a runny yolk.
5. Arrange the toasted brioche buns on four plates and place two rashers of grilled bacon on to each slice of brioche.
6. Remove the eggs from the pan using a large slotted spoon and position one poached egg on each slice of brioche and bacon.
7. Pour a generous spoonful of Hollandaise sauce over the eggs and sprinkle with cracked black pepper and fresh chives. To finish, drizzle some good quality olive oil over the top and serve immediately.
rduane@thenational.ae
