Why do British royals wear mourning jewellery? The historical significance of pearls


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As the mourning for Queen Elizabeth II continues, members of the British royal family, politicians and diplomats have been seen wearing strings of pearls with their sombre, all-black looks.

The decision is not a coincidence. It is commonly known that wearing black is seen as a mark of respect, as too is the wearing of pearls, in a tradition that dates back to Queen Victoria.

Four pieces of mourning jewellery worn by Queen Victoria. Made to commemorate her husband, Prince Albert, who died in 1861, and daughter Princess Alice, who died in 1878. Photo Sotheby's
Four pieces of mourning jewellery worn by Queen Victoria. Made to commemorate her husband, Prince Albert, who died in 1861, and daughter Princess Alice, who died in 1878. Photo Sotheby's

When Queen Victoria's husband Prince Albert died in 1861, she was so overwhelmed by grief, she wore all black for the rest of her life, a period that spanned almost 40 years. Her head-to-toe black ensembles were broken only by the occasional piece of jewellery. Most of it was black, or colourless, but Queen Victoria also wore white pearls, as they were considered to denote purity and tears.

To mourn the loss of both her daughter Princess Alice in 1878, as well as Prince Albert, Queen Victoria wore brooches made with their initials, and a jet-black pendant set with a single, white pearl, establishing a tradition that has lasted until the present day.

Following the recent death of Queen Elizabeth, the tradition is being continued. When the new Queen Consort Camilla attended the Accession Council ceremony, where her husband was formally declared King Charles III, she wore a necklace with four rows of white pearls, with a round diamond clasp.

Immediately following the announcement of the death of the queen, Catherine, Princess of Wales, was seen collecting her children from school wearing pearls by Annoushka, attached to Kiki McDonough diamond hoop earrings.

Meanwhile, to attend the Accession Council ceremony, former prime minister Theresa May and Patricia Scotland, Baroness Scotland of Asthal, both chose to wear pearl necklaces.

As well as being a classic item of jewellery, the decision to wear pearl necklaces not only follows with tradition, but can perhaps be seen as a nod to Queen Elizabeth in a touching gesture.

Both Queen Elizabeth II and the Queen Mother wore pearls to the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales at Westminster Abbey in 1997. AFP
Both Queen Elizabeth II and the Queen Mother wore pearls to the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales at Westminster Abbey in 1997. AFP

As a monarch, Queen Elizabeth followed court protocol rigidly. Following the tradition set by Queen Victoria, she wore pearls to attend the funeral of her uncle, the Duke of Windsor, formerly King Edward VIII in 1972. His abdication forced his brother, the queen's father, onto the throne as King George VI. At the Duke of Windsor's funeral, both Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother wore pearls.

Princess Diana wore a necklace with a single pearl to the funeral of Princess Grace of Monaco in 1982, and when the queen attended Princess Diana's funeral in 1997, she wore a triple strand of pearls with her black dress.

More recently, when Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh died in 2021, the Princess of Wales, then known as the Duchess of Cambridge, attended his funeral wearing a four-strand pearl necklace.

In addition to being a royal mourning tradition, however, Queen Elizabeth clearly treasured wearing pearls and was seen wearing them on a regular basis. Therefore, the fact that royal women are now choosing to wear pearls is perhaps a tilt to the great regard in which they held her.

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Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.

“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.

“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”

If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.

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The Hindu festival is at once a celebration of the autumn harvest and the triumph of good over evil, as outlined in the Ramayana.

According to the Sanskrit epic, penned by the sage Valmiki, Diwali marks the time that the exiled king Rama – a mortal with superhuman powers – returned home to the city of Ayodhya with his wife Sita and brother Lakshman, after vanquishing the 10-headed demon Ravana and conquering his kingdom of Lanka. The people of Ayodhya are believed to have lit thousands of earthen lamps to illuminate the city and to guide the royal family home.

In its current iteration, Diwali is celebrated with a puja to welcome the goodness of prosperity Lakshmi (an incarnation of Sita) into the home, which is decorated with diyas (oil lamps) or fairy lights and rangoli designs with coloured powder. Fireworks light up the sky in some parts of the word, and sweetmeats are made (or bought) by most households. It is customary to get new clothes stitched, and visit friends and family to exchange gifts and greetings.  

 

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Deep in a provincial region of northwestern Turkey, it looks like a mirage - hundreds of luxury houses built in neat rows, their pointed towers somewhere between French chateau and Disney castle.

Meant to provide luxurious accommodations for foreign buyers, the houses are however standing empty in what is anything but a fairytale for their investors.

The ambitious development has been hit by regional turmoil as well as the slump in the Turkish construction industry - a key sector - as the country's economy heads towards what could be a hard landing in an intensifying downturn.

After a long period of solid growth, Turkey's economy contracted 1.1 per cent in the third quarter, and many economists expect it will enter into recession this year.

The country has been hit by high inflation and a currency crisis in August. The lira lost 28 per cent of its value against the dollar in 2018 and markets are still unconvinced by the readiness of the government under President Recep Tayyip Erdogan to tackle underlying economic issues.

The villas close to the town centre of Mudurnu in the Bolu region are intended to resemble European architecture and are part of the Sarot Group's Burj Al Babas project.

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It is one of hundreds of Turkish companies that have done so as they seek cover from creditors and to restructure their debts.

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Updated: October 13, 2022, 11:41 AM