Halima Aden walks at debut Riyadh Fashion Week

The Somali-American model walked for Saudi designer Honayda Serafi at the inaugural event, which also included couturier Mohammed Ashi

Halima Aden at the Honayda runway show. Photo: Riyadh Fashion Week

The inaugural Riyadh Fashion Week kicked off on Friday with 16 shows highlighting the best of Saudi Arabian design. Here are some names – emerging and established – to know.

Mohammed Ashi

Mohammed Ashi opened the debut Riyadh Fashion Week with a collection inspired by the beauty of the desert by night. Photo: Mohammed Ashi

The opening show was, fittingly, by Mohammed Ashi, the couturier who earlier this year became the first ever Saudi designer invited to join the prestigious Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in Paris. Known for his intense sophistication and glamour, Ashi called his latest show 8PM, and it was inspired by the beauty of the desert by night.

Here he delivered evening wear that echoed the rolling curves of dunes, in colours of sand at sunset – russet red and rich gold – mixed with the pale cream of moonlight. An off-the-shoulder dress arrived in deep oxblood satin, its fabric sculpted into complex sleeves, while elsewhere tendrils of cream wool were left as loose fringing, framing the face on a longline dress given volume through the hips, or on a beaded, sleeveless jacket worn open over wide-legged trousers.

Ashi is rightfully taking his place on the global stage, for his adept skill at mixing strict tailoring with voluptuous femininity. For this fashion week debut, Ashi delivered an elegant, feminine collection, best captured in a pared-back, almost severe square-necked column dress in cream, and softened with great explosions of organza ruffles as sleeves.

Yousef Akbar

Yousef Akbar embraced volume for spring/summer 2024. Photo Riyadh Fashion Week

Jeddah designer Yousef Akbar delivered some serious attitude with a parade of sleek black dresses, beautifully carved around the body. Single sleeved or with a train falling from the waist, these were elegant, grown-up and deeply sensual.

Things shifted tack elsewhere in the show with a series of looks filled with volume. There was a mille-feuille dress of candyfloss-pink organza – a mini at the front before falling away to a dramatic train- and a black, off-the-shoulder puff ball with a train in gleaming taffeta. Rich, sultry, and unashamedly dressy, this show was about letting Akbar's keen cutting skills shine through.

Honayda

Stars and heavenly details filled the Honayda collection at Riyadh Fashion Week. Photo: Honayda Serafi

Honayda sent out a show inspired by Rayyanah Barnawi, the first Saudi woman to go to space, with looks paying homage to celestial bodies, with details including beaded stars, half-moon jewellery and even a skirt shaped like a planet.

Centred around the sort of occasionwear the Middle East excels at, it was a breezy parade of evening looks in tones of sky blue interspersed with starlike glitter. To top it all, designer Honayda Serafi called on Halima Aden to walk her runway. Aden wore a fitted dress and flamboyant hooded cape finished with star-shaped rings.

After making waves as the first hijab-wearing model to walk major runways, Aden retired from the industry in November 2020 citing disillusionment. She returned to the runway once more in May 2023, but said she would pick and choose her projects carefully going forward.

Abadia

Traditional handicraft at Abadia. Photo: Riyadh Fashion Week

Abadia delivered a signature mix of minimalist cuts paired with touches of traditional handicraft. A full, floor-length skirt in cream arrived with a drop waist and a panel of traditional Sadu weaving wrapped instead around the hips. Worn with a relaxed white shirt, it captured the nonchalant storytelling of the brand, fusing modern shapes with touches of heritage.

Other pieces included simple, straight-cut tunic dresses, in purposely crumpled fabric, and tops and skirts with curved panels. Restrained in its use of Sadu weaving allowed the collection to feel contemporary, while the pared-back silhouettes will speak to any woman looking for style with comfort.