Saudi Arabia's Mohammed Ashi makes dramatic official haute couture debut in Paris

The designer's label Ashi Studio was part of the official roster for the first time

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Ashi Studio, the fashion label founded by Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi, hit a new milestone on Thursday, becoming the first-ever from the Kingdom to be featured on the official roster of the highly coveted Paris Haute Couture Week.

The dramatic show, at the Jean-Jacques Henner museum, featured his signature structural and geometric flair in a range of materials. The elegant autumn/winter 2023 collection also comprised of bold looks in the form of fabrics and cuts that left little to the imagination.

Ashi, who launched his label in 2006, has shown on the sidelines of haute couture week before, having set up a studio in Paris in 2018. But this is the first time he's been invited to join the prestigious Federation de la Haute Couture, the governing body for the French fashion industry, as a guest member, earning him a spot on the calendar.

Only those recognised by the Federation de la Haute Couture can claim to produce "haute couture" collections, and must meet a host of criteria. A highly coveted grading, being invited to join its ranks is considered the highest possible accolade for a fashion house.

“This is the highlight of my career,” Ashi said last month. “I will honour it in the memory of the great couturiers who came before me and whom I now join in the pursuit of this grand tradition of excellence in creativity and savoir-faire.”

Ashi honed his craft working with Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and then as creative director at Elie Saab, before founding his label in Beirut in 2006.

Known for his sophisticated evening and bridal wear infused with skilful structuring, Ashi's flair for creating boldly elegant looks have made him one of the most sought-after designers in the Gulf.

He has dressed many of the world's leading ladies, including Queen Rania of Jordan, Beyonce, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor and Lady Gaga.

Most recently, he created a custom gown for Jordan's Princess Iman to wear at the wedding of her brother, Crown Prince Hussein.

In February, he told The National of his pride at being able to represent Saudi Arabia globally.

“There are more and more designers from Middle East coming to Paris every season, but being the only one from Saudi, I’m very happy to represent my cultural heritage. Saudi has a unique history and heritage, and being the one to tell it to world is a compelling feeling," he said.

While Ashi is the first GCC talent to join haute couture, he is not the first from the Mena region. In 2016, Michael Cinco, whose atelier is headquartered in Dubai, made history as the first Filipino designer to join, while Lebanon has not one but three couturier houses. Elie Saab joined in 2000, while Zuhair Murad joined in 2001. Georges Hobeika, meanwhile, was invited to join in 2017.

Updated: July 07, 2023, 6:10 AM