Olive groves, honey-infused massages and singing tomatoes: Life at The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

Do as much – or as little – as you like at this beautiful paean to Greek hospitality and regional food and culture

The Romanos lobby, like the rest of the resort, blends in elements of the south-west Peloponnese landscape. Photo: Costa Navarino

Three hours drive from the hustle and bustle of Athens, nestled amid the Navarino Dunes and stretched out along 1km of pristine beachfront upon which the waves of the Ionian Sea gently lap, The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, sits amid an aura of peaceful luxury.

Fittingly for a resort located in a region with more than 4,500 years of history, every effort has been made to blend The Romanos into the south-west Peloponnese landscape, from the harmonious architecture to the resettling of every tree that was removed to make way for it.

Regional and national homage goes hand in hand with sustainability at the resort, where flower-strewn walkways recall bijou Greek streets and where a recreated traditional town square comes alive of an evening, with buzzing restaurants and classic movies projected on to a wall.

The resort merges with the Westin Resort Costa Navarino, making for greater pool, restaurant and facility options for guests, although each property maintains its own distinctive personality.

The welcome

Guests can make a grand entrance as they arrive at The Romanos. Photo: Costa Navarino

Befitting the temperate weather, the entrance to The Romanos is open air and open plan. Think towering columns, pared-back furnishings and gauzy white curtains swaying in the Mediterranean breeze. I’m greeted by views across the sparkling sea, along with a landscape of that distinctive earthy greenery for which Greece is famous, interspersed with bright bursts of bougainvillaea, poppies, hyacinth, and the country’s national emblem, olive trees.

Check-in is seamless and relaxed (I will come to discover that everything about Greece is relaxed), and I’m handed my key, a brief rundown and a map of the resort with plenty of information to pore over.

The room

The writer's room comes complete with an infinity pool. Photo: Costa Navarino

Spoiled as I have been by oversized UAE hotel accommodation, European rooms can often fail to measure up, feeling cramped and leaving me wanting to escape rather than relax. This was not the case here – my room is an excellent size at 43 square metres. It features marble floors and dark wood accents, a roomy bathroom with separate bath, shower and toilet, huge double bed, a sofa seating and desk area and – the icing on the cake – its own private infinity pool.

The outside seating area had sea views, as well as places to lounge and sit. My room was well-placed for access to the pools and breakfast. Other options include 82 square-metre suites and 10 beachfront private villas ranging from 142 square metres to 660 square metres.

The food

From the start, my expectations are high. The focus is on national and local dishes, which take centre stage on every menu. Naturally, tomatoes are a standout which positively radiate flavour.

With basic ingredients that sing, it's no wonder many of the meals are simple, and on occasion deceptively so. Tomatoes, olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and some freshly caught fish along with the obligatory bread to mop everything up – delightful.

I manage to sample a handful of the 16 eateries and the standout for me was Barbouni, a beachfront restaurant that served up fresh, innovative dishes made to be shared. For lunch, two of us enjoyed courgette balls with aromatised labneh (€16 or Dh69), grilled aubergine (€16), beetroot salad (€17) and an incredible orzo with blue crab (€32).

I also sign up for the olive oil tasting experience at Kafeneio. Olive oil sommelier Cristina Stribacu laid out four different varieties (with apple slices for palate cleansing) and taught me how to identify different notes and flavours, as well as the best way to differentiate between good and sub-par oils.

The scene

One of three outdoor pools at the resort. Photo: Costa Navarino

The clientele is mixed, and there’s the distinct feel that everyone has come away to indulge their own personal version of relaxation. Golfers abound, whether in couples or larger groups of men and women. Age-wise, guests tend to skew slightly older, although there were plenty of young families there taking advantage of the many pools, children’s activities and myriad restaurants. The energy is lower and laid back – it’s definitely not a party hotel.

The resort is spread out over 300 acres, meaning you never feel crowded or overwhelmed by other people; there’s plenty of space to enjoy a little solitude. During the daytime, the number of pools (including an adults-only option) and activities on offer means you can go the whole day and see only a handful of people, if that’s your aim. Mealtimes, especially dinner, are when the place shakes off the day’s languidness.

The neighbourhood

There is plenty to do within the resort and in its surroundings. Photo: Costa Navarino

Given its size, it’s safe to say that this resort serves as a neighbourhood of sorts. With indoor and outdoor sports, numerous swimming pools, a water park, four 18-hole golf courses, a spa, 16 restaurants and bars, and that reimagined Greek town square at its heart, those who want to stay in one place will find everything they need here.

But guests are still encouraged to get out and explore the local Messenia region. The resort was founded by Vassilis Constantakopoulos, a local success story whose journey from unpaid teenage shipmate to founder of the largest independent private shipping company in the world is the stuff of legend. Constantakopoulos created the resort to give back to the region and guests are encouraged to take day trips and visit local restaurants and monuments.

Along the waterfront there is also a purpose-built destination, Navarino Agora, which has shops and restaurants as well as an open-air cinema and art exhibitions.

The service

The service is friendly, personable and laid back – very Greek. Those raised on UAE-style service may raise an eyebrow at the absence of the snap-to-attention mentality, but my advice is to just go with the flow. Restaurant service is exceptionally attentive and the buggy drivers are accommodating and thoughtful.

Highs and lows

Anazoe Spa. Photo: Costa Navarino

As I travelled alone (leaving my three kids, who would have loved the water park, at home) my standout is Anazoe Spa. I tried the 50-minute Melisseus The Spirit Of Honey Massage, which involved spreading honey across my back post-massage to soften the skin. Guests should note that there are male masseurs, so if you prefer a female therapist let them know when you book.

The size of the resort means it can take some time to get your bearings and figure out the way to the pools and restaurants. If in doubt, call a buggy.

Top tip

Take a bike tour as way of exploring the resort's surroundings. Photo: Costa Navarino

Book a guided bike tour with the onsite Moraitis Outdoors and spend a delightful few hours exploring the local region. E-bikes are available, but I went old-school, opting for a mountain bike on which to tour the Gialova Lagoon and famous Voidokoilia beach, known as Omega beach due to it being in the shape of the Greek letter omega. The two-and-a-half hour tour (and my enthusiastic and knowledgeable tour guide) was a highlight of the trip.

The verdict

Families, golfers, couples and solo travellers alike will feel welcomed, looked after and relaxed at this resort, which suits those who prefer to stay “on campus” as much as adventurers looking for a base to explore the region.

The bottom line

Rooms range from €319 per night in low season to €1,863 per night in high season, based on one guest, one room, excluding taxes. The resort closes from November to March.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future