Bi explores the power of money in contemporary Chinese society, the uneasy relationship between commerce and culture, and the degradation of the Peking Opera.
Bi explores the power of money in contemporary Chinese society, the uneasy relationship between commerce and culture, and the degradation of the Peking Opera.

Cultural devolution



Sheila Melvin reads Bi Feiyu's new novel, a backstage exploration of a Chinese art form's 20th-century decline. The Moon Opera Bi Feiyu Translated by Howard Goldblatt Telegram Books Dh33 As the spacecraft Apollo 11 hurtled toward the moon in July 1969, ground control made an unusual request to the three veteran astronauts aboard. It is recorded on the NASA transcript: "Houston: Among the large headlines concerning Apollo this morning there's one asking that you watch for a lovely girl with a big rabbit. An ancient legend says a beautiful Chinese girl called Chang-o has been living there for 4,000 years. It seems she was banished to the moon because she stole the pill for immortality from her husband. You might also look for her companion, a large Chinese rabbit, who is easy to spot since he is only standing on his hind feet in the shade of a cinnamon tree. The name of the rabbit is not recorded."

Lunar Module Pilot: "OK, we'll keep a close eye for the bunny girl." Not long after this exchange the lunar module landed on the Sea of Tranquillity, Neil Armstrong uttered "one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind", and the jocular request was forgotten - except in the Chinese-speaking world, where Chang'e (as her name is now generally spelt) has been venerated and adored for millennia, especially by women.

While teaching English in Taiwan in the early 1990s, I was stunned when a passing reference to Armstrong's moonwalk unleashed a deluge of scorn from a large class of telecommunications bureaucrats. Neil Armstrong was no hero, and he ought never dare show his face in Taiwan, my students - nearly all women - told me emphatically. When I asked why, the class responded in near unison: He didn't find Chang'e! This mass outpouring of disdain was followed by personal memories of the moonwalk's broadcast, most involving crying grandmothers and despairing aunts whose dreams of seeing Chang'e had been dashed by hapless male astronauts who found "nothing but rocks".

When Armstrong walked on the moon, China was in the midst of its Cultural Revolution; the landing was given perfunctory coverage, and legends like that of Chang'e were condemned as "feudal superstition". But in subsequent years Chang'e has reclaimed her place in the public sphere. Indeed, the three spacecraft in China's Lunar Exploration Programme (which is scheduled to touch down on the moon in 2017) are all named after her. As of 2008, the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival during which Chang'e is traditionally honoured is once again a national holiday.

Bi Feiyu's The Moon Opera is a slender novel that directly probes several weighty and intertwined topics: the power of money in contemporary Chinese society, the uneasy relationship between commerce and culture, and the decline of Peking opera. But at heart it is the story of a Peking opera diva named Xiao Yanqiu and her passionate - even desperate - identification with Chang'e. Set in 1999, the novel opens at a banquet where Qiao Bingzhang, the leader of Xiao Yanqiu's opera troupe, is seated near the boss of a state-owned cigarette factory. Both men are so "arrogant" they don't deign look at each other - until the boss realises who Qiao Bingzhang is. "Isn't there someone called Xiao Yanqiu in your troupe?" he asks. He remembers her as the beautiful lead in The Moon Opera, a 1979 staging of a 1915 Peking opera titled Chang'e Flies to the Moon. His recollection confirmed, the boss asks why nearly two decades have passed since Xiao Yanqiu's last performance:

"'Opera has fallen on hard times in recent years,' Bingzhang explained primly. 'Xiao Yanqiu now spends most of her time teaching.'" Both statements are true, but neither fully answers the question. Chang'e Flies to the Moon was created in 1915 by the legendary Peking opera performer Mei Lanfang. Thanks in large part to its spectacular costumes, the opera was instantly greeted as one that would appeal to foreigners, and help promote Peking opera worldwide - which it did. The Moon Opera of this novel is a (fictitious) revival of Mei's original, commissioned in 1958 to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the People's Republic in 1959, but cancelled while still in rehearsal because a general found the whole premise insulting to China, a nation so wonderful that nobody, not even a legendary character in a fictional tale, would ever leave it to live on the moon. Such things really do happen. Indeed, it was a November 1965 editorial attacking the Peking opera "Hai Rui Dismissed From Office" that launched the Cultural Revolution, which led to the banning of virtually all performing arts of the "exploiting class" except for eight "revolutionary model operas". As recently as 1998, a major foreign-funded production of Peony Pavilion was banned from travelling to New York's Lincoln Center because a Shanghai bureaucrat thought the Ming Dynasty opera made China look old-fashioned.

In Bi's tale, it is not until 1979, three years after the Cultural Revolution had ended, that The Moon Opera was finally staged, with Xiao Yanqiu as Chang'e. The production won high acclaim, as did Yanqiu, who became so obsessed by her role that she refused to relinquish it. When her understudy, a former "model opera" star, finally wrangled a chance to perform, Yanqiu congratulated her backstage - then threw boiling water in the unsuspecting woman's face, earning herself a demotion from diva to teacher.

Of course, the factory boss knows none of this; he just loved watching Yanqiu as Chang'e back in 1979. Now he has money, and wants to see her perform again. Bingzhang cannot believe his ears. Like the directors of all state-owned opera companies in the late 1990s - and those outside rich cities like Beijing and Shanghai today - he struggles to keep his troupe alive in a society that gives much lip service, but little real support, to Peking opera. "It had been years since the troupe had put on a performance, time that had passed with nothing to show for it." But the factory boss is flush wish industrial cash, and wants to buy some opera: "'Let her sing,' he repeated in the voice and countenance of a great man? 'Don't presume that all we know how to do is fill our coffers and endanger the people's heath. We also strive to promote a climate of culture.'"

Thus is the stage set for a revival of The Moon Opera. Bingzhang is understandably worried that Yanqiu, who has not been on stage in 20 years, might not be up to the task. But when he visits to tell her the news, she dispels his fears by flawlessly singing the opera's most challenging aria. He realises that Yanqiu has never stopped practising her cherished role, even with no real prospect of performing it. Overwhelmed by the ex-diva's dedication, he "sits sprawled in his chair, not moving yet deeply moved":

"'How did you manage to keep at it?' 'Keep at what?' she asked him. 'What is it I'm supposed to have kept at?' 'It's been 20 years. It couldn't have been easy.' 'I didn't keep at anything... I am Chang'e.'" After Bingzhang's visit, the dazed and delighted Yanqiu goes straight to the hospital to get a bag of diet pills - she imagines that losing 25 pounds will complete her return to her life as it was 20 years ago. She then plunges into preparation for the performance: she rehearses more than ever; she starves herself; she chooses a student, Chunlai, to be her understudy, and even magnanimously offers to split the role of Chang'e with her. But not all is well: she meets the factory boss at a banquet, then sleeps with him; she treats Chunlai cruelly; she discovers she is pregnant (by her husband) and aborts the foetus with nary a second thought for her health or husband.

Even as we are privy to these intimate moments, Yanqiu remains something of a cipher. Her motives for burning her original understudy, for example, are never explored. And her decision to sleep with the factory boss is simply explained as one that "finally put her mind at ease. It had always been a matter of when, not if... it wasn't a good thing, it wasn't a bad thing, just something people have done since time immemorial." She is ultimately only upset because the boss is not attracted to her nakedness; the sudden weight loss has made her flesh sag. Worse, it plays havoc with her singing voice.

In the strength and opacity of her motivations, Yanqiu resembles Chang'e: there are a dozen different explanations for Chang'e's decision to swallow the elixir meant for her husband, each more convoluted than the last, and none particularly convincing. The two women share other similarities, too. Both are associated with cold: Chang'e because she lives on the moon (which represents what is cold and female, the "yin" to the sun's "yang"), Yanqiu because she is a "frosty and aloof... ice queen" whose husband has nearly "always had to beg for sex". And each woman has a problem with prescription abuse: Chang'e's pill-popping lands her on the moon forever, while Yanqiu's contributes to a situation that, for her, is almost as devastating.

"I am Chang'e," Yanqiu repeats again and again. "I am the true Chang'e. Only I can be Chang'e." Her belief could be ascribed to madness, but the narrative of The Moon Opera shies away from undercutting it. Bi is much more concerned with the madness of the world in which the fallen diva lives, one in which "money's the key, only money", and therefore most operas performed regularly are shallow, acrobatics-filled excerpts staged for tourists who feel obliged to check the box for Peking opera (right next to the one for the Great Wall). Maybe we, like Yanqiu, each have a little Chang'e in us: "People are their own worst enemies; they want not to be human, but immortal. They are the cause of their own problems? Ingesting the wrong elixir is Chang'e's fate, it is a woman's fate, and it is humanity's fate. Humans are what they are. If they are fated to have only this much, they must not quest for more."

Sheila Melvin is the author, with her husband Jindong Cai, of Rhapsody in Red: How Western Classical Music Became Chinese.

Company profile

Company name: Leap
Started: March 2021
Founders: Ziad Toqan and Jamil Khammu
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Funds raised: Undisclosed
Current number of staff: Seven

COMPANY PROFILE

Company name: Revibe
Started: 2022
Founders: Hamza Iraqui and Abdessamad Ben Zakour
Based: UAE
Industry: Refurbished electronics
Funds raised so far: $10m
Investors: Flat6Labs, Resonance and various others

MATCH INFO

Manchester United v Everton
Where:
Old Trafford, Manchester
When: Sunday, kick-off 7pm (UAE)
How to watch: Live on BeIN Sports 11HD

COMPANY PROFILE

Company name: Klipit

Started: 2022

Founders: Venkat Reddy, Mohammed Al Bulooki, Bilal Merchant, Asif Ahmed, Ovais Merchant

Based: Dubai, UAE

Industry: Digital receipts, finance, blockchain

Funding: $4 million

Investors: Privately/self-funded

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
About RuPay

A homegrown card payment scheme launched by the National Payments Corporation of India and backed by the Reserve Bank of India, the country’s central bank

RuPay process payments between banks and merchants for purchases made with credit or debit cards

It has grown rapidly in India and competes with global payment network firms like MasterCard and Visa.

In India, it can be used at ATMs, for online payments and variations of the card can be used to pay for bus, metro charges, road toll payments

The name blends two words rupee and payment

Some advantages of the network include lower processing fees and transaction costs

The Florida Project

Director: Sean Baker

Starring: Bria Vinaite, Brooklynn Prince, Willem Dafoe

Four stars

Stamp duty timeline

December 2014: Former UK chancellor of the Exchequer George Osborne reforms stamp duty land tax (SDLT), replacing the slab system with a blended rate scheme, with the top rate increasing to 12 per cent from 10 per cent:

Up to £125,000 – 0%; £125,000 to £250,000 – 2%; £250,000 to £925,000 – 5%; £925,000 to £1.5m: 10%; More than £1.5m – 12%

April 2016: New 3% surcharge applied to any buy-to-let properties or additional homes purchased.

July 2020: Chancellor Rishi Sunak unveils SDLT holiday, with no tax to pay on the first £500,000, with buyers saving up to £15,000.

March 2021: Mr Sunak extends the SDLT holiday at his March 3 budget until the end of June.

April 2021: 2% SDLT surcharge added to property transactions made by overseas buyers.

June 2021: SDLT holiday on transactions up to £500,000 expires on June 30.

July 2021: Tax break on transactions between £125,000 to £250,000 starts on July 1 and runs until September 30.

ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies direct from Dubai to Rio de Janeiro from Dh7,000 return including taxes. Avianca fliles from Rio to Cusco via Lima from $399 (Dhxx) return including taxes.

The trip

From US$1,830 per deluxe cabin, twin share, for the one-night Spirit of the Water itinerary and US$4,630 per deluxe cabin for the Peruvian Highlands itinerary, inclusive of meals, and beverages. Surcharges apply for some excursions.

Need to know

The flights: Flydubai flies from Dubai to Kilimanjaro airport via Dar es Salaam from Dh1,619 return including taxes. The trip takes 8 hours. 

The trek: Make sure that whatever tour company you select to climb Kilimanjaro, that it is a reputable one. The way to climb successfully would be with experienced guides and porters, from a company committed to quality, safety and an ethical approach to the mountain and its staff. Sonia Nazareth booked a VIP package through Safari Africa. The tour works out to $4,775 (Dh17,538) per person, based on a 4-person booking scheme, for 9 nights on the mountain (including one night before and after the trek at Arusha). The price includes all meals, a head guide, an assistant guide for every 2 trekkers, porters to carry the luggage, a cook and kitchen staff, a dining and mess tent, a sleeping tent set up for 2 persons, a chemical toilet and park entrance fees. The tiny ration of heated water provided for our bath in our makeshift private bathroom stall was the greatest luxury. A standard package, also based on a 4-person booking, works out to $3,050 (Dh11,202) per person.

When to go: You can climb Kili at any time of year, but the best months to ascend  are  January-February and September-October.  Also good are July and August, if you’re tolerant of the colder weather that winter brings.

Do not underestimate the importance of kit. Even if you’re travelling at a relatively pleasant time, be geared up for the cold and the rain.

Origin
Dan Brown
Doubleday

Squad

Ali Kasheif, Salim Rashid, Khalifa Al Hammadi, Khalfan Mubarak, Ali Mabkhout, Omar Abdulrahman, Mohammed Al Attas, Abdullah Ramadan, Zayed Al Ameri (Al Jazira), Mohammed Al Shamsi, Hamdan Al Kamali, Mohammed Barghash, Khalil Al Hammadi (Al Wahda), Khalid Essa, Mohammed Shaker, Ahmed Barman, Bandar Al Ahbabi (Al Ain), Al Hassan Saleh, Majid Suroor (Sharjah) Walid Abbas, Ahmed Khalil (Shabab Al Ahli), Tariq Ahmed, Jasim Yaqoub (Al Nasr), Ali Saleh, Ali Salmeen (Al Wasl), Hassan Al Muharami (Baniyas) 

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Carzaty, now Kavak
Based: Dubai
Launch year: Carzaty launched in 2018, Kavak in the GCC launched in 2022
Number of employees: 140
Sector: Automotive
Funding: Carzaty raised $6m in equity and $4m in debt; Kavak plans $130m investment in the GCC

SPEC SHEET: SAMSUNG GALAXY Z FLIP5

Display: Main – 6.7" FHD+ Dynamic Amoled 2X, 2640 x 1080, 22:9, 425ppi, HDR10+, up to 120Hz; cover – 3/4" Super Amoled, 720 x 748, 306ppi

Processor: Qualcomm Snapdragon 8 Gen 2, 4nm, octa-core; Adreno 740 GPU

Memory: 8GB

Capacity: 256/512GB

Platform: Android 13, One UI 5.1.1

Main camera: Dual 12MP ultra-wide (f/2.2) + 12MP wide (f/1.8), OIS

Video: 4K@30/60fps, full-HD@60/240fps, HD@960fps

Front camera: 10MP (f/2.2)

Battery: 3700mAh, 25W fast charging, 15W wireless, 4.5W reverse wireless

Connectivity: 5G; Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 5.3, NFC (Samsung Pay)

I/O: USB-C

Cards: Nano-SIM + eSIM; no microSD slot

Colours: Cream, graphite, lavender, mint; Samsung.com exclusives – blue, grey, green, yellow

In the box: Flip 4, USB-C-to-USB-C cable

Price: Dh3,899 / Dh4,349

Bahrain GP

Friday qualifying: 7pm (8pm UAE)

Saturday race: 7pm (UAE)

TV: BeIN Sports

Upcoming games

SUNDAY 

Brighton and Hove Albion v Southampton (5.30pm)
Leicester City v Everton (8pm)

 

MONDAY 
Burnley v Newcastle United (midnight)

Abu Dhabi race card

5pm: Maiden (PA) | Dh80,000 | 1,600m
5.30pm: Maiden (PA) | ​​​​​​​Dh80,000 | 1,400m
6pm: Liwa Oasis (PA) Group 2 |​​​​​​​ Dh300,000 | 1,400m
6.30pm: Arabian Triple Crown Round-2 (PA) Group 3 | Dh300,000 | 2,200m
7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup (PA) Handicap | Dh70,000 | 1,600m
7.30pm: Maiden (TB) |​​​​​​​ Dh80,000 | 2,200m


The Arts Edit

A guide to arts and culture, from a Middle Eastern perspective

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