A little more than 200km from the Tunisian capital, Tunis, is one of humanity’s most majestic creations and one of the greatest Roman ruins in the world.
For almost 18 centuries, the Roman Colosseum of El Jem – built in the third century AD – was witness to several turning points in Tunisian and global history.
Today, in a small town on the Tunisian coast and in the middle of modern life’s unstoppable bustle, time stands still the instant one’s feet enter the ancient structure. To walk into this ruin and gaze up at the crumbling spectator stands is to be surrounded by a masterpiece of human ingenuity.
With capacity for almost 30,000 spectators, this colosseum – or stadium – was once able to gather throngs of spectators regardless of social rank or status.
Nobles and the general public in the ancient Roman period used to gather to watch games either between gladiators and knights or even men against dangerous wild animals. All in all, people came together to enjoy a shared passion.
Today, the place still brings together people from all walks of life to enjoy the cultural festivities that take place there.
“This monument is one of the greatest testimonies to the might of the Roman civilisation and its expansion,” Rached Hamdi, professor of ancient civilisations and the caretaker of El Jem colosseum, told The National during a visit to the historic site.
“During its construction, several mistakes that were made by the architects during the building of Rome’s colosseum were overcome, it is certainly an indication of the evolution of architecture during the Roman era.”
Occupying about 18,000 square metres, El Jem Roman Colosseum is divided into two main parts – an arena where the main event takes place; and a three-storey seating area for spectators that is 36 metres tall, as well as two wide underground galleries through which actors, knights, and wrestlers from among the prisoners of war and wild beasts would enter.
On major holidays and occasions, the animals were released for fights with the purpose of entertaining the huge crowds such events would attract.
In the year 1695, parts of the colosseum were destroyed as a result of confrontations between opponents of the Bey (the hereditary title given to Tunisia’s sovereign since the Ottoman era) who revolted against him and took shelter there.
But until the end of the 17th century, the full circle of this monument remained intact.
A fusion of history and modern life
Today, Tunisian authorities have made efforts to preserve the ruins and restore some of its parts so that future generations won't miss out on seeing this masterpiece of Tunisia's history.
El Jem Colosseum regained its fame in the 1970s when it was recognised a Unesco World Heritage Site.
The historic site also began hosting a symphonic music festival that became a major attraction for musicians from around the world and avid classical music lovers, who could bask in the twin pleasures of musical and architectural genius.
Every summer, light flows across the halls of El Jem to highlight the beginning of the festival, bringing the site to life through the creativity of contemporary art.
In addition to the music festival, in March every year a simulation of the original Roman games takes place, kicking off “The Return of the Romans” festival.
Caravans roam the city of El Jem, with actors and artists dressed up as legionaries and centurions in full Roman attire, leading the way towards the colosseum and accompanied by musicians playing the anthem of war, attempting to faithfully re-enact the sights and sounds of ancient Rome.
The perfect attraction for history lovers
Experiencing and seeing El Jem Colosseum first hand has an indescribable effect on visitors, and it has an even bigger importance for those interested in discovering humanity’s rich history and imagining the world of our ancestors.
Fifteen years ago, Frederic and Erina from France visited El Jem for the first time, so it was only natural that another visit was a must when their son, Arthur, became intrigued about it after talking about it in history class.
“This place left an impact on us when we first visited and it has occupied a special place in our hearts ever since,” Erina told The National under the shade of one of the colosseum’s arcs.
The family never visited the colosseum of Rome, and never thought such a place existed in Tunisia until they read about it in a tourist guide book while preparing for their holiday.
“It’s such a majestic place,” their son Arthur said.
“As someone who’s a fan of archaeology and history, I can only feel happy that I get to see it during this visit.”
Biata, a visitor from Germany, told The National that the experience was “wonderful, even better than the one in Rome”.
It is exactly these gushing tributes to the site that led Mr Hamdi, the colosseum's caretaker, to wish for more visitors to a place he cherishes so much.
“I advise all archaeology and history lovers to visit this place and, I dare to say, it's especially unlike other monuments in Tunisia. In the world there has not been a place as preserved as this one,” he said.
