Romance of the rails. The Hejaz railway ran from Damascucs to Medina in Saudi Arabia and was part of the Ottoman railway network.
Romance of the rails. The Hejaz railway ran from Damascucs to Medina in Saudi Arabia and was part of the Ottoman railway network.

The region's lost romance on the rails, now rekindled



Once whistling and puffing out steam, the majestic train of the Hejaz Railway met its demise during the Arab Revolt of the First World War, when Bedouin tribes led by Lawrence of Arabia launched relentless attacks against this railway.

Some of the battered carriages from those attacks are still around; 90-year-old rusting shells buried under layers of sand along a route that once transformed the Arab world.

Designed in the early 1900s for the crumbling Ottoman empire by German engineers using funds from pious Muslims across the world, the Hejaz Railway was first and foremost for pilgrims, easing their travels over a 1,600 kilometre road between Damascus and Medina for the annual Haj pilgrimage. The Hejaz was in many ways an embodiment of pan-Islamism. It was a turning point for pilgrims, transforming a difficult journey that once took over two months into a 55-hour ride on what the Bedouins called the "Iron Donkey".

At the time, the West was highly sceptical about whether the Hejaz Railway would ever materialise, and the project was dismissed by British officials as a "fantastic" scheme. But the Ottoman railway defied sceptics, and was eventually completed at a total cost of 4.25 million Turkish Liras.

It has taken the Middle East 91 years to revisit this vision of a pilgrimage railway. Last Haj, Saudi Arabia successfully launched the Al Mashaer Al Muqadasah, better known as Mecca Metro, linking Mina, Arafat and Muzdalifah with Mecca. It is also investing millions of dollars on the construction of the Haramain Fast Rail, which will link the two holy cities of Mecca and Medina with Jeddah.

This week, railway professionals gathered in Abu Dhabi for a major industry conference, and I got the chance to meet Middle Eastern "railway men" who maintain that this field is a "man's pride and joy".

Old and young men from various fields of engineering, architecture and even artistry were almost giddy when discussing their visions for either existing or future railway projects. The experts, whether Emirati, Saudi or Iranian, put aside political differences to discuss their common passion for the railway. And all agreed that a regional railway network, starting with the pan-GCC one that is expected to be operational in 2016, will reform this region, and help bring neighbours closer together.

A Yemeni delegation was also present, and expressed hope that they too would be included in this grid, boldly claiming that this would "change our lives forever".

While trains are already operational in some parts of the Arab world like Syria, Libya, and Egypt, it would require significant reforms and upgrades for them to become the first choice of national transport. Iranian trains are my favourite in the region, as they employ a modern system, but also maintain a cultural touch by allowing for a "tea coach" where locals can drink their saffron tea, recite poetry and have discussions.

As the move to faster trains gathers pace, an appreciation for the old steam engines endures, and several can still be found at the original Medina Station from the Hejaz Railway that underwent restoration in 2001. The station covers an area of 540,000 square metres, and includes 12 separate architectural units. It is a magnificent structure and a stands as reminder of what the Middle East had long before a European Union rail system existed.

TE Lawrence, who actually travelled on the Haifa-Damascus extended branch of the Hejaz Railway in 1911, best captured the love affair between man and railway in his own account in Seven Pillars of Wisdom.

"A herd of sheep and goats in charge of a little ragged boy issued out towards us," he wrote. "Before he reached the foot of the hills there came a loud whistling down the valley from the north, and a tiny, picture-book train rolled slowly into view across the hollow sounding bridge and halted just out the station, panting out white puffs of steam."

The day that a regional train network is introduced can't come too soon. Only when the puffs of steam give way to the roar of locomotives will regional transportation truly emerge over the horizon.

Key findings
  • Over a period of seven years, a team of scientists analysed dietary data from 50,000 North American adults.
  • Eating one or two meals a day was associated with a relative decrease in BMI, compared with three meals. Snacks count as a meal. Likewise, participants who ate more than three meals a day experienced an increase in BMI: the more meals a day, the greater the increase. 
  • People who ate breakfast experienced a relative decrease in their BMI compared with “breakfast-skippers”. 
  • Those who turned the eating day on its head to make breakfast the biggest meal of the day, did even better. 
  • But scrapping dinner altogether gave the best results. The study found that the BMI of subjects who had a long overnight fast (of 18 hours or more) decreased when compared even with those who had a medium overnight fast, of between 12 and 17 hours.
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Ruwais timeline

1971 Abu Dhabi National Oil Company established

1980 Ruwais Housing Complex built, located 10 kilometres away from industrial plants

1982 120,000 bpd capacity Ruwais refinery complex officially inaugurated by the founder of the UAE Sheikh Zayed

1984 Second phase of Ruwais Housing Complex built. Today the 7,000-unit complex houses some 24,000 people.  

1985 The refinery is expanded with the commissioning of a 27,000 b/d hydro cracker complex

2009 Plans announced to build $1.2 billion fertilizer plant in Ruwais, producing urea

2010 Adnoc awards $10bn contracts for expansion of Ruwais refinery, to double capacity from 415,000 bpd

2014 Ruwais 261-outlet shopping mall opens

2014 Production starts at newly expanded Ruwais refinery, providing jet fuel and diesel and allowing the UAE to be self-sufficient for petrol supplies

2014 Etihad Rail begins transportation of sulphur from Shah and Habshan to Ruwais for export

2017 Aldar Academies to operate Adnoc’s schools including in Ruwais from September. Eight schools operate in total within the housing complex.

2018 Adnoc announces plans to invest $3.1 billion on upgrading its Ruwais refinery 

2018 NMC Healthcare selected to manage operations of Ruwais Hospital

2018 Adnoc announces new downstream strategy at event in Abu Dhabi on May 13

Source: The National

A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
 
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
MATCH INFO

Delhi Daredevils 174-4 (20 ovs)
Mumbai Indians 163 (19.3 ovs)

Delhi won the match by 11 runs