Pope Francis in Iraq brings hope to town crushed by ISIS

Town of Qaraqosh was once largest Christian community in Iraq, then ISIS destroyed it. Pope Francis’s visit may boost the revival, residents tell Gareth Browne

Pope Francis arrives to hold a mass at the Grand Immaculate Church, in the town of Qaraqosh. Reuters

An Iraqi security force officer guards as people wait to greet Pope Francis in the town of Qaraqosh. Reuters

Children with flags wait for Pope Francis to arrive at a meeting with the Qaraqosh community at the Church of the Immaculate Conception. AP Photo

People wait for Pope Francis before his arrival inside the Syriac Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception, in the predominantly Christian town of Qaraqosh (Baghdeda). AFP

Pope Francis arrives to hold a prayer at the Grand Immaculate Church in the town of Qaraqosh. Reuters

Pope Francis sits down before holding a prayer at the Grand Immaculate Church in the town of Qaraqosh. Reuters

A girl sits down before Pope Francis holds a prayer at the Grand Immaculate Church in the town of Qaraqosh. Reuters

Ignatius Joseph III Yunan, Syriac Catholic Patriarch of Antioch, reads from a book as Pope Francis listens while on the throne at the Syriac Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception. AFP

A jubilant priest skips along the street, whipping up a crowd. The hymns of a young choir pierce the morning cold.

Not long ago, this scene would have been impossible. Barely five years have passed since ISIS gunmen patrolled the streets of Qaraqosh, a town known as the home of Iraq’s Christian people.

Nestled on the Nineveh plains east of Mosul, it was overrun in ISIS’s rampage across Iraq in 2014.

The militants replaced crosses with their black flag and thousands of Christians fled.

Those unable to escape were killed or subjugated under the extremists' Christian tax.

Churches were ransacked, hymn books and benches were torched. One church was turned into a bomb factory.

Today, the Pope was in town as part of a historic trip, the first by a serving pontiff to Iraq.

Pope Francis, 84, trod in areas most western diplomats and foreign delegations refuse to include on their itineraries. They say it is too dangerous.

"Our people expected a visit from the Pope to Iraq but we didn't expect that he would visit Al Hamdaniya," Issam Bahnam, the Mayor of the town told The National using another name for Qaraqosh.

“In protocol, the Pope visits the capital of countries he arrives to, but a small city like Baghdeda or Qaraqosh is something unheard of. This visit will erase the pain our people went through.”

There were many reasons the trip might could been cancelled, with a precarious security situation and a critical healthcare crisis during a global pandemic being but two of them.

Then, just days before Pope Francis’s arrival, the Vatican’s envoy Mitja Leskovar tested positive for Covid-19.

It seemed the trip would be called off at any moment.

Yet so in need of a lift were Iraq’s Christians, let alone the rest of the country, that the Vatican insisted the trip go ahead even if it did so with the tightest of precautions.

Pope Francis gestures as he boards a plane to depart for Rome, at Baghdad International Airport in Baghdad. Reuters

Cardinals and ranking Catholic clergymen board the Alitalia Airbus A330 aircraft as Pope Francis bids farewell to other bishops and Iraq's President Barham Saleh and his wife Sarbagh before departing from the Iraqi capital's Baghdad International. AFP

Iraq's President Barham Saleh and his wife Sarbagh escort Pope Francis during the farewell ceremony for the pontiff at the Iraqi capital's Baghdad International Airport. AFP

Pope Francis meets Abdullah Kurdi, father of little Alan, who was shipwrecked with his brother and mother on the Turkish coast in September 2015 while he was trying to reach Europe with his family, at the end of a Mass in the Erbil Stadium. EPA

Nuns cheer and dance at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil, Iraq. Getty Images

A baby dressed in papal outfit during a mass with Pope Francis at the Erbil Stadium. EPA

Nuns take a selfie after the completion of a mass conducted by Pope Francis. Getty Images

People carry umbrellas as they celebrate after a mass led by Pope Francis at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil, Iraq. Reuters

Pope Francis conducts mass at the Franso Hariri Stadium. Getty Images

Monks pray during a mass conducted by Pope Francis at the Franso Hariri Stadium. Getty Images

Pope Francis blesses a statue of the Virgin Mary at a mass at the Franso Hariri Stadium. EPA

Pope Francis walks with an incense censer as he leads mass at the Franso Hariri Stadium. AFP

Pope Francis blesses people as he arrives in the popemobile vehicle at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil. AFP

Pope Francis arrives on the popemobile to celebrate Mass at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil. AP Photo

Nuns wave flags of Iraq, Kurdistan, and the Holy See as they wait for the arrival of Pope Francis at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil. AFP

A faithful waits for Pope Francis to hold Mass at Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil. Reuters

Pope Francis blessing people as he arrives in the popemobile vehicle at the Franso Hariri Stadium. AFP

Young women dressed in traditional Kurdish clothing wave flags of the Holy See as they wait for the arrival of Pope Francis at the Franso Hariri Stadium in Erbil. AFP

Pope Francis arrives to hold a mass at the Grand Immaculate Church, in Qaraqosh. Reuters

Pope Francis is greeted by people as he arrives at the Syriac Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception (al-Tahira-l-Kubra), in the predominantly Christian town of Qaraqosh. AFP

Pope Francis arrives at a meeting with local residents at the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Qaraqosh. AP Photo

Pope Francis visits the town before holding a mass at the Grand Immaculate Church, in Qaraqosh. Reuters

Pope Francis releases a white dove during a prayer for war victims at 'Hosh al-Bieaa', Church Square, in Mosul's Old City. Reuters

Pope Francis rides in a golf cart at the ruins of the Syriac Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception. AFP

A nun kisses the hand of Pope Francis during a prayer for war victims at 'Hosh al-Bieaa', Church Square, in Mosul's Old City. Reuters

Pope Francis arrives to pray for war victims at 'Hosh al-Bieaa', Church Square, in Mosul's old city. Reuters

Pope Francis attends a prayer for the victims of the war at Church Square, Mosul. EPA

Pope Francis and the leader of the Kurdistan Democratic Party (KDP) Masud Barzani viewing a gift sculpture of a Chaldean cross during their meeting in Arbil, the capital of Iraq's northern autonomous Kurdish region. AFP

Pope Francis meeting with the President of the autonomous Kurdistan Region Nechirvan Barzani, the Prime Minister of the 9th cabinet of the Kurdistan Regional Government Mansour Barzani, and the leader of the Kurdistan Democratic Party (KDP) Masud Barzani in Arbil. AFP

Pope Francis greets Iraqis dressed in traditional outfits upon his arrival at Erbil airport, in the capital of the northern Iraqi Kurdish autonomous region. AFP

Pope Francis walks with Masrour Barzani, Prime Minister of Kurdistan region, and President of the Kurdistan region in Iraq Nechirvan Barzani, upon his arrival at Erbil International Airport. Reuters

Iraqi women dressed in traditional outfits hold palm leafs as they welcome Pope Francis upon his arrival at Erbil airport. AFP

Mansour Barzani, Prime Minister of the 9th cabinet of the Kurdistan Regional Government looks on , as Pope Francis greets religious dignitaries at the Erbil airport. AFP

Pope Francis arrives at Erbil International Airport in Iraq. Reuters

Pope Francis is welcomed at Erbil International Airport in Erbil. Reuters

Pope Francis greets people as he leave the Chaldean Cathedral of Saint Joseph. Getty Images

Pope Francis leads mass at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

Iraqi Christian worshippers attend the mass led by the Pope at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

Pope Francis greeted by children upon his arrival for a mass at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

Pope Francis blesses the congregation as he leads mass at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

Pope Francis arrives to lead mass at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

Pope Francis is greeted by children upon his arrival at Baghdad's Saint Joseph Cathedral. AFP

People take pictures with their mobiles upon the arrival of Pope Francis. Reuters

Pope Francis speaks to Iraqi religious figures during an interfaith service at the House of Abraham in the ancient city of Ur in Iraq's southern Dhi Qar province. EPA

Pope Francis speaks to Iraqi religious figures during an interfaith service at the House of Abraham in the ancient city of Ur. EPA

Pope Francis speaks to Iraqi religious figures during an interfaith service at the House of Abraham in the ancient city of Ur. EPA

Pope Francis is seen behind flowers at an interfaith service at the House of Abraham in the ancient city of Ur. EPA

Pope Francis smiles and waves at a women that threw a kiss to him. Haider Husseini/ The National

People attend an inter-religious ceremony in Ur near Nassiriya. Reuters

Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani meeting with Pope Francis and his delegation, at his home in the holy city of Najaf. AFP

Pope Francis, accompanied by clerics, and Iraq's top Shiite cleric, Grand Ayatollah Ali Al Sistani, meet in Najaf. Courtesy of the Vatican

Pope Francis's meeting with Iraq's top Shiite cleric, Grand Ayatollah Ali Al Sistani, in Najaf, followed months of negotiations between Najaf and the Vatican. Reuters

Pope Francis smiles with Iraq's prime minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi on arrival at Baghdad airport. Handout from the office of the Prime Minister of Iraq

The Pope visits Our Lady of Salvation Church. Courtesy of the Prime Minister office

Pope Francis is welcomed upon his arrival at the Our Lady of Salvation Church. AP Photo

Pope Francis speaks in the Our Lady of Salvation Church. AFP

Pope Francis greets people in front of the the Our Lady of Salvation Church. AFP

Nuns welcome Pope Francis at the Our Lady of Salvation Church. AFP

Iraq's President Barham Salih speaks with Pope Francis during a welcoming ceremony at the Presidental Palace in Baghdad. Reuters

Iraqi President Barham Salih welcomes Pope Francis at the Presidential Palace. AFP

Pope Francis walk with Iraq's prime minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi on arrival at Baghdad airport. Handout from the office of the Prime Minister of Iraq

Pope Francis talks with Iraq's prime minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi on arrival in Baghdad. Handout from the office of the Prime Minister of Iraq

Pope Francis walks with Iraq's prime minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi on arrival at Baghdad airport. Handout from the office of the Prime Minister of Iraq

Pope Francis walks alongside Iraq's Prime Minister Mustafa Al Kadhimi upon his arrival in Baghdad. AFP

Pope Francis waves to the crowd upon his arrival in Baghdad. Reuters

Pope Francis speaks to journalists aboard the plane heading to Iraq. AP Photo

Pope Francis waves as he boards the plane for his visit to Iraq, at Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport in Rome, Italy. Reuters

People holding Iraqi and Vatican flags as they wait for the arrival of Pope Francis, at Baghdad Airport Road, in Baghdad, Iraq. Reuters

A Christian woman holds the Vatican flag as she heads to the airport to wait for the arrival of Pope Francis, in Baghdad, Iraq. Reuters

Pope Francis arrived by helicopter from nearby Mosul, a flight of just a few minutes.

Then a meandering convoy of 50 vehicles, loaded with Iraqi Special Forces, Kurdish Peshmerga units and intelligence agents, escorted him the few hundred metres from the helicopter to Qaraqosh’s Church of the Immaculate Conception.

Above, low-flying helicopters with marksman hovered. Every person in town had either a gun or a balloon.

As the papal convoy passed crowds lining the rubble city’s main street, there were screams of ecstasy, even relief.

“Bring him to bless my baby,” shouted one woman, dangling her infant over the fence.

Although the effects of the country’s brutal war against ISIS continue to be present, with hundreds still missing and much of the town destroyed, it was forgiveness and perseverance the Pope was preaching.

"The road to a full recovery may still be long but I ask you, please, not to grow discouraged," he told those gathered in the church.

"What is needed is the ability to forgive, but also the courage not to give up."

The Vatican hopes that the visit might help stem a continuing departure of Christians from Iraq, a community that once numbered 1.5 million but had fallen to a few hundred thousand even before ISIS invaded.

A dire economy, political instability and a lack of reconstruction in places such as Qaraqosh leave few prospects for communities to return home.

Asylum with the support of churches in countries such as Canada and Australia is the most enticing option for an increasing number.

Mirron Ayoud said that although many of his friends had fled Iraq, the Pope’s visit encouraged him to stay.

“I’m 25, I don’t want to migrate," Mr Ayoud said. "I want to stay in my city, in my country.

“If things are stable and fine in Iraq I will never leave, and perhaps some of my friends will come back.

"They will see the Pope is here and they will come back and rebuild the city with me.

“Within 24 hours, everything became different in the whole city. The Pope has achieved something no Iraqi has managed yet – he gave us hope."

Yet, whether this euphoria can lead to any lasting, meaningful change is a question for another day, says Joni Kochar, 33, who waited for hours sitting on a wall to catch a glimpse of the Pope.

“I came with my friends to see the Pope and that’s what I did. I saw him wave and I’m happy,” Ms Kochar says.

“Tomorrow I’ll work out how to fix my community. Today I’ll enjoy the party.”