Why St Anton?
By popular consent, the Arlberg ski circus has the best slopes in Austria and St Anton is the jewel in its crown. In the 20th century, the no-nonsense party village was bisected by the main line from Zurich to Vienna: skiers queuing at the level crossing to get to the lifts flinched as high-speed trains blasted past. At the dawn of the 21st century, it realised its dream of putting the tracks underground, turning the centre into a green lung that includes a lake with fairy lights and a children's playground. With cars barred from the picturesque main street, the resort is charming, convenient and irrepressible.
I love St Anton for its amazing slopes and vibrant nightlife, but there is something for everyone in the five resorts on the Arlberg pass. The nearest neighbours are chic St Christophe and traditional Stuben, both with connecting lifts. For the past 700 years, the hamlet of St Christophe has been dominated by the Hospiz hotel, significantly more luxurious in 2011 than when it first sheltered stranded travellers in the 14th century. Stuben is the powderhound's choice: north- facing Albona opens up wonderful off-piste adventures. Lech and Zurs, deluxe linked outposts with heated chairlifts, are a short drive away.
A comfortable bed
St Anton has several handsome traditional hotels in the pedestrian zone, notably the Schwarzer Adler (www.schwarzeradler.com), the Post (www.hotel-post.co.at) and the Alte Post (www.hotel-alte-post.at), but the only five-star is Raffl's St Antoner Hof (www.antonerhof.com; 00 43 5446 291), tucked away on the edge of the village. It is a rustic boutique, with 37 rooms, most of them suites, an extensive spa and an excellent chef. Half board from €220 (Dh1,077) per person, per night. The Bergschlossl (www.bergschloessl.at; 00 43 5446 2220), a turreted luxury b&b, is as ski-in, ski-out as it gets. Double rooms cost from €157 (Dh770) per night.
Find your feet
The slopes on the Valluga above the village are awesome, with steep bowls and tough chutes for the intrepid, long cruisers for mileage hunters and base-level nursery slopes for never-evers. Thanks to the innovative Ferris wheel people-mover installed in 2006 from the resort to the mid-station at Galzig, it is now much easier to get around the mountain quickly. Until 2009, taking the gondola to Rendl, St Anton's second ski area, required a bus ride, but intelligent lateral thinking has contrived a replacement that runs directly out of the village.
Rendl has connoisseur's powder, but St Anton's historic "must dos" are the Schindler Kar and Mattun steps on the Valluga's upper slopes. The 15-person cable car to the top accesses the classic off-piste descent to Zurs, only permitted with a guide because the first section is above treacherous rocks. The 10km cruiser from the Vallugagrat to Stuben is a lovely intermediate rollercoaster: do it without stopping and you'll know you got out of bed. And that's without touching on the Kapall half of the mountain, linked to cheap and cheerful Nasserein. The Arlberg Ski School (00 43 5446 3411) was a benchmark when the pioneering downhill racer Hannes Schneider established it as a world first in 1921-1922 - and it still is.
Meet the locals
Head for the open-air ice rink for a game of eisstock, or Bavarian curling. First identified in a painting by the 16th-century Dutch artist Pieter Breughel, the sport took off in Germany and Austria 300 years later. The victor is he who lands his stock, a disc with a gliding surface and wooden handle, closest to the target rubber ring. Franz Klammer, Austria's legendary downhill champion, plays eisstock with the deadly accuracy that brought him an Olympic gold in 1976. Expect the same passion from his compatriots in St Anton.
Book a table
For the best long lunch in town, reserve a table by a picture window in the Verwallstube (00 43 5446 235250) in the Galzig mid-station. The menu is unexpected but delectable: lobster ravioli, baked monkfish, bouillabaisse with garlic mayonnaise, noodles with shaved truffle. In the evening, the Museum Restaurant (00 43 4556 2475) specialises in gourmet Austrian cooking. Put in your order and check out St Anton's history in the Ski and Folk Museum while your food is prepared. The setting is a handsome early 20th-century mansion with marble fireplaces and wood panelling from the Czech Republic. You can see it in The Chalet Girl, a romantic comedy starring Bill Nighy and Felicity Jones due to be released in February. The Hotel Montjola (00 43 5446 2302) serves eight varieties of fondue in a cosy ambiance.
Shopper's paradise
Most of the shops sell sporting goods at inflated prices. The windows in St Anton's pedestrian zone display the full range of designer wear in the new season's colours - red, purple and pink - backed up by top-of-the-line skis and snowboards. Antiques, jewellery and music are also available. The central supermarket supplies almost anything you forgot to pack. It's tempting to regroup frequently in cafes showcasing cream cakes.
What to avoid
Give Arlberg-well.com a miss. The eyesore building, the legacy of the 2001 World Alpine Championships, houses a starkly chilly wellness and leisure centre with indoor and outdoor pools, fitness rooms, saunas and hammans. The multi-purpose hall is used for international congresses and, more rewardingly, for high-profile tennis tournaments and events, such as the Arlberger New Year's concert, which is a regional star.
Don't miss
A romantic evening sleigh ride to the Verwall restaurant (00 43 5446 3249), a brisk 45-minute trot from the village centre. Originally a hunting lodge, it is now a picturesque tavern with loads of schmaltz. Don't forget the carrots.
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 4 (Gundogan 8' (P), Bernardo Silva 19', Jesus 72', 75')
Fulham 0
Red cards: Tim Ream (Fulham)
Man of the Match: Gabriel Jesus (Manchester City)
DEADPOOL & WOLVERINE
Starring: Ryan Reynolds, Hugh Jackman, Emma Corrin
Director: Shawn Levy
Rating: 3/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Xpanceo
Started: 2018
Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality
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Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)
The biog
From: Upper Egypt
Age: 78
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Favourite Abu Dhabi activity: walking near to Emirates Palace
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ROUTE TO TITLE
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Round 2: Beat Naomi Osaka 7-6, 1-6, 7-5
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Quarter-final: Beat Marketa Vondrousova 6-0, 6-2
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Final: Beat Jasmine Paolini 6-2, 6-2
Tomb Raider I–III Remastered
Developer: Aspyr
Publisher: Aspyr
Console: Nintendo Switch, PlayStation 4&5, PC and Xbox series X/S
Rating: 3/5
Islamic Architecture: A World History
Author: Eric Broug
Publisher: Thames & Hudson
Pages: 336
Available: September
WWE Evolution results
- Trish Stratus and Lita beat Alicia Fox and Mickie James in a tag match
- Nia Jax won a battle royal, eliminating Ember Moon last to win
- Toni Storm beat Io Shirai to win the Mae Young Classic
- Natalya, Sasha Banks and Bayley beat The Riott Squad in a six-woman tag match
- Shayna Baszler won the NXT Women’s title by defeating Kairi Sane
- Becky Lynch retained the SmackDown Women’s Championship against Charlotte Flair in a Last Woman Standing match
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The specs
Engine: 6-cylinder, 4.8-litre
Transmission: 5-speed automatic and manual
Power: 280 brake horsepower
Torque: 451Nm
Price: from Dh153,00
On sale: now
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
Fixtures
Opening day Premier League fixtures for August 9-11
August 9
Liverpool v Norwich 11pm
August 10
West Ham v Man City 3.30pm
Bournemouth v Sheffield Utd 6pm
Burnley v Southampton 6pm
C Palace v Everton 6pm
Leicester v Wolves 6pm
Watford v Brighton 6pm
Tottenham v Aston Villa 8.30pm
August 11
Newcastle v Arsenal 5pm
Man United v Chelsea 7.30pm
Uefa Nations League: How it works
The Uefa Nations League, introduced last year, has reached its final stage, to be played over five days in northern Portugal. The format of its closing tournament is compact, spread over two semi-finals, with the first, Portugal versus Switzerland in Porto on Wednesday evening, and the second, England against the Netherlands, in Guimaraes, on Thursday.
The winners of each semi will then meet at Porto’s Dragao stadium on Sunday, with the losing semi-finalists contesting a third-place play-off in Guimaraes earlier that day.
Qualifying for the final stage was via League A of the inaugural Nations League, in which the top 12 European countries according to Uefa's co-efficient seeding system were divided into four groups, the teams playing each other twice between September and November. Portugal, who finished above Italy and Poland, successfully bid to host the finals.
Frida
Director: Carla Gutierrez
Starring: Frida Kahlo
Rating: 4/5
The five pillars of Islam
Getting there and where to stay
Fly with Etihad Airways from Abu Dhabi to New York’s JFK. There's 11 flights a week and economy fares start at around Dh5,000.
Stay at The Mark Hotel on the city’s Upper East Side. Overnight stays start from $1395 per night.
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Sarfira
Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal
Rating: 2/5
Fixtures
Wednesday, April 3
Arsenal v Luton Town, 10.30pm (UAE)
Manchester City v Aston Villa, 11.15pm (UAE)
Thursday, April 4
Liverpool v Sheffield United, 10.30pm (UAE)
Jeff Buckley: From Hallelujah To The Last Goodbye
By Dave Lory with Jim Irvin
The specs
Engine: 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8
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Dhadak
Director: Shashank Khaitan
Starring: Janhvi Kapoor, Ishaan Khattar, Ashutosh Rana
Stars: 3
THE BIO
Favourite book: ‘Purpose Driven Life’ by Rick Warren
Favourite travel destination: Switzerland
Hobbies: Travelling and following motivational speeches and speakers
Favourite place in UAE: Dubai Museum
Defending champions
World Series: South Africa
Women’s World Series: Australia
Gulf Men’s League: Dubai Exiles
Gulf Men’s Social: Mediclinic Barrelhouse Warriors
Gulf Vets: Jebel Ali Dragons Veterans
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Gulf Under 19: British School Al Khubairat
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UAE National Schools: Al Safa School
International Invitational: Speranza 22
International Vets: Joining Jack
Match info:
Manchester City 2
Sterling (8'), Walker (52')
Newcastle United 1
Yedlin (30')
Apple product price list
iPad Pro
11" - $799 (64GB)
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MacBook Air
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The past Palme d'Or winners
2018 Shoplifters, Hirokazu Kore-eda
2017 The Square, Ruben Ostlund
2016 I, Daniel Blake, Ken Loach
2015 Dheepan, Jacques Audiard
2014 Winter Sleep (Kış Uykusu), Nuri Bilge Ceylan
2013 Blue is the Warmest Colour (La Vie d'Adèle: Chapitres 1 et 2), Abdellatif Kechiche, Adele Exarchopoulos and Lea Seydoux
2012 Amour, Michael Haneke
2011 The Tree of Life, Terrence Malick
2010 Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives (Lung Bunmi Raluek Chat), Apichatpong Weerasethakul
2009 The White Ribbon (Eine deutsche Kindergeschichte), Michael Haneke
2008 The Class (Entre les murs), Laurent Cantet
The lowdown
Badla
Rating: 2.5/5
Produced by: Red Chillies, Azure Entertainment
Director: Sujoy Ghosh
Cast: Amitabh Bachchan, Taapsee Pannu, Amrita Singh, Tony Luke