Hotel Murano Urban Resort, Paris

Hotel Insider: I never did fathom what makes the Murano an 'urban resort', but never mind - the black toilet paper will make an excellent gift for an unsuspecting friend.

The hotel's sleek lines make it the kind of "urban resort" popular with artistic types and sensitive souls.

Late night hotel arrivals can often result in an encounter with the front desk's B-team, still earning their spurs on the graveyard shift. Not so at the Murano. The night concierge sprang into action, ushering me to a small reception room where check-in was swift and easy. The night porter led me through an open-air "lounge" to a lift with black sparkling walls and, once at my floor, along an impossibly dark corridor. He joked that guests always find it tricky seeing the room numbers which are barely visible in the gloom. Luckily, the rooms have names, too, and are much easier to spot.
The hotel is south of Place de La République and near the border of the third and 11th arrondissements, perfect for leisurely walks through the historic Marais district. You are a 10 minute taxi ride from Gare du Nord and a 10 minute stroll from the Seine and the Ile de la Cite. Nearest Metro is Filles du Calvaire.
Paris's makeover and journey to excellence continues. Gone - at least for the most part - are the surly waiters and nonchalant hotel staff as the great city enjoys a renaissance in good service. The Murano is one of those leading the way.
I was in "Valentino", which was bathed in soft pink light as I entered. You can change the lighting to suit your mood by using switches on the wall. There's one setting which makes the lights fade from one hue to the next on a repeating programme - ideal should your mood be changeable or if feel the urge to stage an in-room disco. In the morning, natural light floods in through the large windows.
Some hotels react to the late checkout request with horror and furrowed brows but the Murano's concierge met mine with a smile, a swift phone call and confirmation. Perfect. He also told me who makes the best palmiers in town - Paul's apparently. He directed me to the nearest one and within 15 minutes I was devouring a vast and delicious palmier dunked in an almost perfect café au lait. A good tip.
A mix of executives in town for high level talks, a family at the start of a French adventure, and a mystery musician ("very famous", according to the concierge) camped out in one of the pool suites. The bar is "in" right now with artistic types enjoying the rainbow of coloured seats.
My room's interior decor, in which the chest of drawers at the foot of the bed was painted with bright red gerberas, the TV was perched on the end of a silver pole, the bathroom had stylish terrazzo tiling and the toilet paper was black. Yep, black toilet paper; unnerving at first but somehow appropriate in this stylish and modernistic establishment.
More niggles than hates. Two suites have had their balconies transformed into plunge pools which is great for their inhabitants but means those below are subject to an odd gurgling noise as the water filters through its cycle. Also, you cannot close the door to your room unless the key is in it which can be frustrating. And, while the ?26 (Dh123) breakfast buffet was good, having to pay a further supplement for your oufs is a bit much: go to Paul's instead.
I never did fathom what makes the Murano an "urban resort"and not simply a "hotel", but never mind - it was welcoming, efficient and pleasantly different, and the black toilet paper will make an excellent gift for an unsuspecting friend.
Murano Urban Resort, 13 Boulevard du Temple, 75003, Paris, France ([phone]). Doubles from Dh1,600 to 3,000 per night.